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#1
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What's it mean when engine doesn't turn off...
This happens to my 280SE every once and a while. When I turn the engine off, it will continue to knock and sputter for a few seconds. I use Premium fuel. Should I put Octane booster on it? Today it did just that and a little bit of white smoke came out of the front grill.
Got my first order from Fastlane, changed the spark plugs and wires. Wire are too long but they work so I'm keeping them. Old wires had ceramic connectors on the plug side. Severa were chipped.
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1970 280SE Coupe W111 Chassis Number: 111 024 12 Engine Number: 130 980 12 Exterior Color: 180 - Silver Grey Metallic Interior Color: 243 - Leather Light Red Transmission # 004470 |
#2
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Short answer is your engine is "dieseling" or "running on" because of hot spots in several of the combustion chambers. This problem is usually caused by glowing carbon buildup, and is mostly found on the higher compression gas engined cars. Some hard running might be in order, sometimes called an Italian tune-up. The premium fuel and the octane booster you are using will help some during normal operation; however as long as the carbon deposits remain, there will be problems with "run on".
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1961 190Db retired 1968 220D/8 325,000 1983 300D 164,150 |
#3
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When my father had his 1965 220SEb sedan, the dealer told him to run it in third to clean the plugs. He would and the peed would increase with the engine bucking and the car jolting. The speed would increase until it would reach 90 mph, in third and the car would purr.
I've done this with my old 220SE, 230S, and my 740T. It works like a charm. Even my Volvo Master tech buddy tells me they will give the FWD cars, with the all aluminum DOHC engines, a load test. The load test is a run at 55 in 2nd gear, (AT), for about 5 mins. It clears out the engine and rotates the valves. Check your chain and your chain guides before trying this technique.
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Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
#4
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Also, make sure your point gap/dwell is correct, spark timing is set to specs (not retarded) and idle speed isn't too high.
Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW |
#5
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A good way to get rid of carbon is get a product called Power Tune. It is sold in marine shops and is for outboard motors. It is made by Quicksilver (Mercury). It is in a spray can. You spray down the carb until the can is mostly gone, then try to kill the motor with the remainder. Let soak for 15 minutes. Start car and run fast. You will leave a nice cloud of smoke. Probably not good with catalytic converters.
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