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#1
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Holy Deals, Batman!
What I paid at Harry's U-Pull-It:
$24.95 to enter + $20.99 in parts = 45.94 What I got: Retail cost: From a 450SE: 1 0.4-ohm resistor (looks new!) $20.93 1 0.6-ohm resistor (looks new!) $20.93? (N/A!) 1 Bosch coil (looks new!) $50.00? (N/A!) 1 PS pump $323.00 1 alternator $101.90 2x cams: Right side $250.00? (N/A!) Left side $250.00? (N/A!) 2x tower sets (except 1, LR): Right side $100.00? (N/A!) Left side $100.00? (N/A!) 2x valve covers: Right $179.49 Left $179.49 8X injectors $428.24 @ $53.53 each Fuel rails $100.00? (N/A) 1x Air temp sensor $37.93 1x water temp sensor $19.61 1x thermo-time switch $38.86 Other: 1 distributor from a 420SEL $200.00? ($97.86 for cap, $31.50 for rotor = $129.36) 1 PS pump from a 420SEL $323.00 TOTAL: MINIMUM (known values) new retail: $1781.81 ESTIMATED new retail: $2723.38 I saved nearly 60 times the estimated retail value! I also wanted to grab the master cylinder but DAMMIT I forgot! Also wanted to grab the cold start injector but alas, I forgot my allen wrenches ![]() Oh, what's better, a 420's PS pump or a 4.5's PS pump? Which is better for the 108-setup... is the 420 any more efficient? If so, I use that, if not, I use the 450's, that simple ![]()
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k Last edited by Tomguy; 02-07-2004 at 08:24 PM. |
#2
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Oh, and although the MAP and dizzy were taken, some excellent things were not:
All 4 bundt-cakes were still on the car. They didn't even look like they were scratched! The reason? They also had locks on them. I couldn't find the lock inside, I wasn't going to dig through all the snow/ice to look. And I couldn't get the trunk open (the car must've been locked, the button seems useless. From what I could see from the med kit hole, there's at least 1 gas can in there on top of something else...) HOW can I get these off? They're BEAUTIFUL! Dirty, that's about it - no rust, no scratches, no chips! It's such a shame... the engine still spun freely, it had no accident damage and no rust. Just a dent (probably happened during towing) and a severly bent left tie-rod (also from towing). 101K miles, engine was super-clean and many things looked new. It must've been in a garage, there was a (mouse?) nest below the air cleaner. Seats had no tears and seat covers, someone yanked the original Becker out (presumably to get the faceplate, it was missing though the radio was there). I must've been the 2nd guy to look at this (the first being the guy who STOLE MY NEW TRIGGER POINTS AND MAP... erm *cough* :p) I wish I could've bought her instead of her being sent to the junkyard and eventually the crusher ![]() Anyway, how can I get these "delicious cakes" off? And, how can I open a (116) trunk that's locked without a saw?
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#3
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McGard locks? Get the trunk open and check the jacking equipment and spare tire well. I've heard of people welding a nut onto the end of the lock, and using that to remove the lock, although the act of welding could potentially damage the wheel, and others who hammered a 12-point socket onto the lock and used a breaker bar to unscrew the bolt. The optimistic (and masochistic, IMHO) try vise grips.
Last edited by PaulC; 02-07-2004 at 10:03 PM. |
#4
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Well I don't want to nick these at ALL, they looked almost like NEW! If I used vice grips and they slipped, I'd be... sad!
__________________
Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
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