Valve Stem Seal Attempt

[joshhol]

I borrowed a spring compressor, I have a 27mm socket, a nice air compressor, new valve stem seals and one smokey old 280SEL. I think I can get it done but wish me luck, it will probably be the most complex job I've attempted.

I've done some reading of the old posts and think I have the general idea.

Question: in the new stem seal kit, is there a distinction between the intake and exhaust valve? They look the same.

Should I soak the new ones in some oil before putting them on?

How hard is it to remove the old seals?


What I do know:

Position the cylinder close to TDC
Charge the cylinder with air
Working on one cylinder at a time, remove spring, keepers and stem seal

On installation, use the plastic sliders.

I have a shop manual for this car too!


Hopefully I can get this done, then all I have to do is replace the subframe bushings and then I can put the old beast on the market.

[300SDog]

You should get lots of responses on this extremely high-tech DIY endeavor..... For god's sake, pack the timing chain opening with rag - so none of those fiddly bits fall and get lost.

Trick seems to be prodding the new seals in place (ALL the way down) with some kinda harmless wooden probe (chinese chop-stick?) that wont cut the seals even while using the plastic shield. Old seals you can fork with straightened fish-hook, thats what i used. Also you can use Q-tip to get broken bits if you shatter the old seals. I've only done the job once.... and that was on a '65 220Sb without advantage of plastic shield. Exhaust seals were white rubber and intake were black, if memory serves me well.

Errors I made included losing keepers, having to retrieve a couple of fallen valves with magnetic fetching tool and destroying new seals while pushing them into place..... had to buy a 2nd set of seals. Especially, you gotta have the magnetic retriever tool - it helps at pulling the keepers. Good luck and keep us informed.

[joshhol]

Thanks 240DieselDog,

I have to buy a couple things yet. I need the spark plug adapter for the air hose and some magnetic tools. Any advice on where I should get a chopstick?

Just kidding, but seriously, what would the keeper magnet retriever look like? Do I need a special tool, or should they have it at McParts?

Also, what kind of magnet works for retrieving fallen valves? Is it the kind with the small cylindrical magnet on the end of a flexible rod that you often see mechanics using to fish stuff out places. (timing chain cavities perhaps )

Forgive the dumb questions,

Thanks in advance.

[rgnprof]

I don't know if you need the same exact tool for your job (I am about ready to do the same thing on my 114 250). I found this magnetic valve keeper lifter online and I bought a spark plug adapter hose at O'Reilly's Auto Parts here in OK. But Someone on this board gave me the following web site to buy the tool online. Hope this helps.


http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi14.html#901
Above link to the spark plug adapters

Mercedes-Benz 116 589 06 63 00 Magnetic finger used to remove valve keepers. $ 24.99 at
http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm

Ryan

Is your valve spring compressor for an engine with an overhead cam? If not, it will not work. I just used some screwdrivers to get that done. A mechanic has a tool that is for overhead cams, but it is awful pricely. The difference between the two seals is that if you look at the top, the hole on the exhaust is bigger than the hole on the intake. If you have any questions, let me know. i just got done with this job around Christmas.
Tim

Here is the correct one you will need.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi13.html#3087

VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR
KD 3087 $49.95

Tim

[joshhol]

Tim, thanks for chiming in. I seemed to recall that you did this recently. I'll look for your posts on this job.

I borrowed the compressor from my MB mechanic in town. It surely is the right one. However, it seems the magnetic tool is highly recommended for the keepers, so I will be ordering that.

The spark plug adapter seems to be hard to find in this town. The McParts people looked at me like I said I was a republican when I asked them about it.

Tomorrow I think I'll press on with the POR15 job on the trunk of the 300D. The stem seals will have to wait.

I appreciate all the help, I'll let you all know how it goes when I get on with this project.

Josh

I'll send you mine for like $5(whatever shipping comes out to be). Just give me your address and then send me check whenever. I will send it as soon as possible.
Tim

[joshhol]

Tim, I sent you an email.

[g_daddy]

Curious to know what is the cost to have a valve job done, (104 engine), versus the trouble of acquiring the proper tools and learning curve to get a job done such as this? What have you paid for parts and labor?

Josh, I sent you an e-mail.

I was talking about the spark plug adapter. I had to borrow a cable with a strong little magnet on it to get my keepers out. There is nothing that I can help you with. Are any of your plugs white or black. If any of them look discolored, then I would make sure you cant move the valve guides around too much. Mine just pulled right out. Let me know if you need the spark plug adapter.
Tim

I would read this before you get started. It is my whole story. I thought I was just going to do some little short day thing like you are. HAHAHA!
Tim


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=82285

[joshhol]

Tim,
I didn't see your email anywhere. I did check my settings and the correct address is listed.
If it's about the spark plug adap. I could probably make do around here, I should be able to find it.

Thanks for the offer though.

[jcantor]

Joshhol,

I'll add one more item to the list of things to do/watch out for. Make certain that you are at exactly TDC before putting air to the cylinder AND keep hands and tools away from the front of the engine.

I made the mistake on mine of leaving the wrench that I was using to turn the engine on the crank bolt once and also didn't have it quite at TDC. When I put air to the cylinder, it spun the engine, ripping one of the tranny cooler lines with the handle of the wrench. I was lucky that no body parts (mine) were in the way.

jlc

I jsut put a huge breaker bar on the rachet that I was using and had my dad hold it while I put air into the cylinder. You can also put those bungee cords on it and put them in the whole that the hood latch goes into so that noone has to hold the breaker bar. If you are going to do this, make sure that the breaker bar is big enough.
Tim

PS: Also check this out while you are in there. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?postid=530388#post530388