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#1
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116 Window Motor Swap.....
Any advice on repair of 116 window mechanism would be appreciated....... meanwhile am surfing the archives picking up bits and pieces.
Driver's window motor is struggling..... needs help for lowering and sometimes cuts out entirely with zero motor sounds and no return to up position. Am certain its not the switch because i can literally hear and feel the window motor struggling - when it works at all..... meanwhile 3 other windows in the car never hesitate and run smoothly. Question: Can the driver's window mechanism be swapped with the rear window mechanism from driver's side???
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'80 300SD/ w116 '79 240D 4-spd '71 750cc Guzzi previously owned: '83 240D 4-spd '77 280SEL 4-spd '74 280/8 '72 250/8 '65 220Sb 4-spd '63 220Sb 4-spd '63 190c 4-spd '61 220Sb 4-spd '60 190b 4-spd |
#2
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No.
Motor is probably interchangeble with any of the four (from the local recycle yard). Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#3
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Pater: Just confirming about the no, because with the 108's, the mechanism for the front and rear drivers are the same, and the front and rear pass as well. They're just in at different angles. (the fronts are in like an "L" and the rears like a "r" but the l+r sides are different).
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#4
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Nearby junkyards dont have 116 in stock...... From surfing the archives am guessing its the zinc motor bracket alone that distinguishes front from rear assemblies.
Have also read that motor is only replaceable with window in down position. Any other advice or cautions? My first experience with electric windows.... the only thing that would hold me back is rivetted parts, or broken zinc motor bracket. Regulators are the same?? |
#5
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Mine needed a new gear, the ass'y I got from the junkyard had a good gear but cracked frame. The gear is held on by a pressed bolt.
I bent (and cut a bit) at the bolt and took the gear out of the good ass'y and the bad one, and put the good gear in the good ass'y. Heated the bolt up a bit and hit it a few times with a 4lb hammer. Fit on there well and works perfectly! I also (CAREFULLY) bent my ass'y a bit (it's why the gear got chewed up in the first place - it was riding a bit off-center)
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#6
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The regulator is sprung with a farily large spring, and removing the motor will cause the regulator to snap "closed" hard enough to injure. Wire it before removing the motor.
I'm fairly certain the regulators (gear and arm sets) are NOT interchangable, but the motors are all the same. For that matter, I'd bet the motor off a W123 would fit, too, although I don't know for certain. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#7
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Thanks for the caution on the spring snapping - somebody in the parts forum is parting out a 116 - am gonna wait until I've got the entire assembly before performing the swap.
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