1972 280 SE 6 Cylinder Rear Main Seal

[aluminum]

1972 Mercedes sedan 280SE Sedan " 6 Cylinder " REAR MAIN OIL SEAL

Whats involved is a 2 part Rope Oil seal yes

(1) Is that a Motor our repair ?
(2) Can you change it without completely removing the Crankshaft ?
(3) What is the easiest way for the repair

(4) How do you do it ?



I see No Videos YouTube etc for Mercedes W108 6 Cylinder Cars

and I see no old Forum Posts Covering such for a 6 Cylinder ( GAS MOTOR ) 1972 ( all I see is some diesel Posts )


I know its a Big Job but Lots on Mercedes is a Big Job lol


Thanks if anyone Knows or a Link to the Repair , Video if such a things exists

[cth350]

It's a drop the oil pan repair and that means removing the motor or removing the axle.
-CTH

[aluminum]

Originally Posted by cth350

It's a drop the oil pan repair and that means removing the motor or removing the axle.
-CTH

Thanks CTH Pulling the Pan means pull the motor ( its out now never put it in yet )
I know that part lol its the rest (Actual Seal install ) I am not sure about
***
OK Just Took another Look at My 70 SE motor Core and it has No Main Bearing Seal ! but Rather it has a Rope Seal at the rear of the Alloy Oil Pan
And the Block ( Pics Below ) the Main Bearing Caps simply support the Bearings themselves < Most Likely you assumed I knew that > but I never paid any attention to such until today

So That's Good News The Crankcase Oil is contained at the Rear By the Rope Seal " In the Oil Pan Grove & The Grove in the Actual Engine Block
So I answered my own Question again LOL hows that go ? Stupid is as Stupid does ?

( Not in the Rear Main Bearing Cap block like most Cars .
These Photos will show the Actual rope Seal Etc

[aluminum]

I got the Motor from this Parts Car has a Great Front End sat to over 20 Years hooked up a Low pressure Pump and return line to a Gas Can and fired it right up and drove it

Has a Dent in the Rear can you fix it LOL

Lots of stuff I can sell I hope but whole Car was Cheap $500
The 1970 is the Project Car

[rumb]

The rope seal IMHO a bit of work to install. Once you get it in you have to trim the excess to a certain thickness of protrusion. Should be in manual. I have used sharp razor blades to trim it, but it is tough.

[aluminum]

Originally Posted by rumb

The rope seal IMHO a bit of work to install. Once you get it in you have to trim the excess to a certain thickness of protrusion. Should be in manual. I have used sharp razor blades to trim it, but it is tough.

Thanks Rumb :
Ya I was reading you need to role them in ( Rope Seal ) and mention was made of a 1/4 inch socket related to rolling it in > Am thinking a 1/4 inch drive extension would work > Razor off the excess leaving say 25-30 Thousands with dab of Aviation Permatex on both " Ends " Only >
( I Have Had a Excellent Track record with " Aviation Permatex" I use small Thin amounts of it around the Timing Chains on Head Gaskets and related Bolts same area's )
The Rope Seal :

Its a Good " Wide " Seal I expect as nothing is moving on it the downside long term is the Heat I expect
( I let the Motor Hang ) at a Good Install Angle for 2 hours today full of Crankcase Oil and did not see a Leak today @ the Converter Bolt access at all so may just install it > ( Am also thinking as I pressure washed the Motor a Lot that perhaps when I Hoisted the Motor at install angle the next day perhaps some water & Oil residue ran out was what I saw humm
This Particular 70 Sedan is extra nice ( excepting the Bad Motor That blew
Looks like to me the Cam went 1/2 flat on one lobe then the Car sat and motor froze up > That Year 2.8 SE 6 Cylinder has a Weird configuration design under the Valves and it Looked Funny enough to me to make me change the Motor out but also its so costly to rebuild the motor these days.
Its going to be a Nice Rust Free example of a W108 Sedan with nice original Paint.They bought it in Germany at the end of 70 when the new Models came Out Yet it looks like a export model to me more then a Euro

Perhaps the Vin could tell em for sure ?