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#1
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Where to buy calipers
I need fromt calipers for my 72 280SEL 4.5. I was looking at ********.com, but there are many options and I dont know how to make sure I order the right ones. Are there many styles for this car?
Thanks....Jason |
#2
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Your car has vented front disc brakes, so there is only one type. You must specify your model and/or chassis number.
You cannot use the ones from a W126, for example, the rotors are thicker.
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Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
#3
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From the looks of things, there are 2 manufacturers of brake systems for these cars. One is Bendix and the other is ATE. Not sure if maybe all US cars have one brand and Euro cars the other? Confused and want to get them ordered ASAP. I have rebuild seals for my existing calipers, but dont really have the time.
My info is from the Raybestos website and ********... Thanks....Jason Last edited by jkeith72; 11-03-2009 at 05:54 AM. Reason: Add info |
#4
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I got mine from a vendor on eBay. The prices vary greatly so look at all of them.
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"If it's in the newspaper it must be true." Dudley Do-Right |
#5
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Have you tried calling Phil? These people do sell parts after all. -CTH
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#6
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Quote:
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1989 300E 144K |
#7
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Excuse me if I dont know who youre talking about. Who is Phil. Are you referring to the sponsor? If so, I did check and they were MUCHO DINERO...
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#8
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O'Reilley Auto Parts has front calipers for as little as $47.00.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Brake+Caliper/03345/C0066.oap?make=Mercedes-Benz&model=280SEL&year=1972&vi=1193464
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"If it's in the newspaper it must be true." Dudley Do-Right |
#9
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You need to look at AutoZone and O'rillys and any other chain that might be in your area before you buy. Sometime these chains just put the 'move them out' price on parts the computer tells them they are never going to sell. It is just a happy thing for us that Brake Calipers are a part that rebuilders just rebuilt with everything else but the demand for them was so slight and the chains got stuck with them.
I know about eight years ago AutoZone had some of these for less than $30 each. It only takes a little time to check. See what they are asking for a master cylinder while you are there. Who knows? I do think you need to stick with the Ben or the ATE though. I never figured out the differece but there seems to be some. |
#10
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So I tried calling the parts stores and didnt find anything. I called ******** and they couldnt tell me specifically what I needed. The confusing part is the chassis number. I have no idea if this is really important, or just one of those quirky things. This is copied from the website:
RAYBESTOS Part # FRC9001 [IMG]http://www.********.com/catalog/images/MoreInfo.gif[/IMG] {Professional Grade; Friction Ready - Pads Not Included, Remanufactured; Bore Size=2.244" Inlet Thread=M10X1 Bleeder Thread=M8X1.25} Front; Left; Thru Chassis Serial Number 081818; ATE Brake System; Calipers May Mount To The Front Or Rear Of The Axle, Should Be Ordered In Pairs Oh, did the 72 280 SEL come with any other engine other than the 4.5 in the states? Thanks again....Jason Last edited by jkeith72; 11-03-2009 at 06:51 PM. Reason: add info |
#11
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Autozone will sell them rebuilt and have pictures, take yours with you and pair them up before you exchange them.
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With best regards Al |
#12
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What I am finding is that these are not always available...even from their vendors. Autozone specifically can not get them even as special order on the website. I know they are out there, but I dont want to spend an arm and a leg. Im trying to avoid rebuilding myself....maybe I should do that. Anyone tackled that job? If thats not recommended, I could try Ebay parts like mentioned before.
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#13
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Easy to rebuild, getting the puck out is the tricky part, use two opposing large screwdrivers under the lip to lift puck out without binding in bore. Clean everything very very completely, use correct assembly lube to ensure good job.
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#14
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What is wrong with them? If they're SLIGHTLY stuck, you can typically unstick them with a vise. Work them a lot. Use brake fluid in it when you're doing it - have the hose in a can of brake fluid. When it gets rusty, change it out. Work it about 10 times in and out and as long as it's 100% smooth you can probably re-use it. Heavy rust, you'll need a rebuilt or rebuild it yourself with new pistons and rubber if you can source the pistons yourself. I unstuck my rears that way and they worked fine on the car, but it's not something you want to mess with if you're not sure - a leaky caliper or frozen brakes = BAD NEWS!
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#15
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I got a rebuilt master cylinder from autozone for $22. I don't like buying autozone parts, but for $22 bucks I couldn't refuse. Swapped it in and 2 years later everything is fine.
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Question Authority before it Questions you. |
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