What tools do I need to replace the fan clutch?

[nhdoc]

One of the "mods" done by the PO's mechanic was apparently to "fix" the fan clutch so the fan is permanently turning. I'd like to reverse this fix and replace the fan clutch with a working new one, mostly because I hate the roar I have to hear every time the engine revs on kickdown.

Do I need special tools to remove the fan/clutch assembly? I see some special wrenches on ebay and wondered what they are for? Do I need to remove the pulley or loosen the belt first?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.

[yakerz]

i replaced my fan clutch on 4.5 and all i needed was a wrench. some say u have to take off radiator shroud , but mine went in with a little help. its preety easy once u look at it. also the fan has a clutch in it so your going to get the roar of the fan whenever u give it gas. this is normal and cools the radiator. so u may be better off with what your mechanic did because fan clutch's cost $300 bucks give or take. i bought mine used online for 15 and it works great. No belts need be bothered , the clutch connects directly onto the front of the pulley wheel.

[cth350]

As assembled by MB, the fan+clutch is held to the water pump using 4 bolts that have a 10mm head. Simplest way to remove them is to use TWO 6-point 10mm box end wrenches. They're available at sears individually for about 3$ each.

Use one to hold the assembly steady while you loosen a different bolt. Once all four bolts have been loosened, go back and remove each one using the open end side of the wrench. If you use the open end of a wrench or a 12pt one, the bolt's head will strip.

-CTH

[nhdoc]

Thanks for all of the tips. My problem is that the fan roars all the time, any time the engine goes past about 2500 RPM and the noise at higher speeds is annoying. My experience with fan clutches that WORK is that when the engine is cool or when you're on the highway the fan slips enough that it will not roar, but only roars when maximum cooling is needed. Also, having the clutch will save some power and gas on the highway as any engine HP going to turn the fan is wasted at 70 MPH.

I can buy it new for under $170 online for the Behr part and that's who makes the OEM part anyway. I also have a spare left in the trunk by the PO that I might try out first and see if it works.

This car's had some major cooling system mods which I think were originally made because of overheating due to a scaled radiator. Rather than fix the condition by recoring or replacing the radiator, they did all sorts of little tricks to try and work around it. One by one I am restoring it to stock...so far every change I have made has improved it.

[Tomguy]

My fan clutch was originally VERY hard to turn freely even after the initial grip. Soaking the bearings with PB Blaster, brake cleaner, and then greasing them up made it work the way it was intended once again. You might have to do this yourself. Otherwise, heed the warning of NOT using the open-end of the wrench to take those bolts out. You will most likely need 2 wrenches, unless your belts are really tight (too tight, I'd think).

[nhdoc]

Thanks Tom, once I pull it out I can better judge what it needs. I assumed the guy just welded it together but it might just be seized up or gunked up, though the rest of the engine bay is in good shape so it is unlikely that it was so badly neglected. I suspect it was just "fooled with" by someone who thought they knew a clever work around to the overheating problems.

Yesterday, when I was checking the timing and dwell, I hooked my trusty old timing light/ignition computer to the battery terminals and discovered that the positive terminal on the cable had been overtightened by someone and it was broken so it could not be made to fit tightly on the battery post. As such, as soon as I put the clamp from the timing light on it, it came off the battery! I stopped at Pep Boys in picked up a replacement terminal and replaced it, then I realize how the PO told me he kept having to replace the alternator (he said it failed twice). I saw in his papers that the car was brought to the shop twice after being DOA and needing to be jump started. The first time the tech replaced the alternator and regulator, the second time they replaced the alternator again (under warranty). I suspect all it really needed was a new battery terminal the whole time, but who knows? I only know that it was just a matter of time before the car would have failed to start for me had I not discovered the broken terminal. Another example of a $2 part that can leave a car stranded and leave techs stumped.