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#16
10-29-2004, 06:19 PM
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Thanks Arthur
Yes I spoke to you on the phone. This weekend I will finish putting in the crane ignition and coil and see if that helps and give you a call after that.
I was just reading a thread in this forum called "280c running on 5 cylinders" It is very interesting about vacuum leaks. I think I should spend some time checking my vacuum. Pat.
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Pat McCusker 1963 220B 
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#17
10-29-2004, 06:26 PM
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I have a something regarding what you just said, Arthur Dalton, that has been bothering me, maybe you have experience and can tell me what is causing this>
When I drop the distributor down into the cavity, tighten the collar and then I turn the rotor by hand it doesn't spring back. If however I loosen the collar and raise the distributor about 15 mils it is looser and doesn't bind, but it does'nt really spring back hard, but it isn't stuck in the advance (CW) position. Is this normal? Are my springs weak? I am careful not to lift the distributor too far else it will pop out of the groove in the drive plate, making the timing 180 degrees out, that happened to me ONCE. Engine is a 115.017 from a '75 230.4 Using optical XR-700 trigger for Crane Cams ignition (pictured in previous post) 1971 220 (gas) 4-spd manual 106441 1979 300TD w/ ’85 turbo engine 295530 1983 300D 243280 1985 300TD 217300 1987 300D 258230
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!
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#18
10-29-2004, 07:09 PM
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The dist can only go one way bc the drive slot is slightly off center.. but I have seen them forced in..180 out..
If you pull the dist you will see the offset on the drive . The advance should always return to zero , regardless of where the dist is... if not, the springs are broken/unhooked or the plate is sticking.. etc. the springs hold the weights In and the cetrifical rpm force pushes them out ..so , with no rpm, they should return to normal position..
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#19
10-29-2004, 07:28 PM
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Thanks for the comments.
I know they slot and the key are offset, but lo and behold, under some force of rotation while I was driving mine hopped out and settled in 180 degrees out of sync. The car stopped dead in its tracks too, fortunately just out of my driveway. It took little headscratching to figure it out - when I went to establish TDC I found the rotor pointing to the wrong cylinder. I carry a hex wrench in the car to this day, in case it ever happens again. I suppose I better have a look at the spring return and rebuild the distributor someday. Thanks to the pictures and wrote up in this thread I won't feel hesitant to atempt the job. An option I have been toying with is using a distributor from a 230E with its magnetic pickup a stock feature, I bought one along with the electronics module from a W123 Euro, a lte one about 1985 I believe. I think it can be adapted to the earlier engines provided I replace the worm gear on the newer distributor with the floating key arrangement that the old distributors use. Just a little mix and match.
__________________
'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!
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#20
10-29-2004, 07:38 PM
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There is a spring on top of the drive gear that holds the dist tight to the coupling.. so, when you put the dist in, you have to push down whe you tighten the locking hex.. if this is done , there is no way the dist can jump...
On updating the ignition, all these need is a simple point conversion kit ... Mechanical switching just don't cut it anymore...
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