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#1
11-04-2003, 05:28 PM
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W210 Coil Spring Removal tool Pictures
Tool from Napa
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Peter L. House 1998 Sport E430 Azure Blue 110,000k Miles 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Salon V8 Bucket Seats Factory Moon Roof 
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#3
11-05-2003, 11:16 AM
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Spring tool
Yeah the tool work. I just had to wrestle with it to get it into the spring. It beats spending $500.00 for the one with the two plates. I didn't have the shock undone, that would have given me more room and I may not have had too compress it so much.. Any ideas on the which bolt to take loose for the ball joint the vertical one or the horizontal one.. I figure if I take the vertical one of with a box wrench I won't be able to get a torque wrench on it to tightening it down..
Petet
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Peter L. House 1998 Sport E430 Azure Blue 110,000k Miles 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Salon V8 Bucket Seats Factory Moon Roof
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#4
11-05-2003, 01:13 PM
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No, I don't know which is the preferred method to remove the ball joint. I would guess the safe bet is to use the traditional method of popping the tapered pin loose from the upright. Performance Products rents the two plate compressor. I've used one and it is a jewel to work with.
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#5
11-05-2003, 02:20 PM
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Was there a tension rating on this tool?
Just out curiosity I would like to compare it to the Klann compressor...I wonder if this will work on my 92 400E springs
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Matt ____________________________ 92 400E 128K 99 GMC YUKON 88K
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#6
11-05-2003, 03:57 PM
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I managed to change all 4 springs on my 97 210 without a compressor of any kind. Really wasn't a problem.
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95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K 07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K 02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K 05 F150 Silver 44K
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#7
11-05-2003, 05:52 PM
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The compressor Performance Products rents is made by Sir Products and is a virtual copy of the Klaan compressor in form and use. As for not using a compressor, I have heard all kinds of methods used, but none guarantees that a small slip of a supporting jack or whatever will not result in the spring popping loose, perhaps causing damage to the car or to the worker. On the old 108, 109, 110, 111, 113 cars M-B had a method using a jack and a tool that engaged the lower control arm pivot (and the trailing arm pivot in the rear). It was dicey at best in the front. At the rear it was much more secure because of the other locating methods incorporated in the suspension design.
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