W140 lower bushing replacement - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#1 04-17-2003, 06:52 PM

Hi Guys,

I was told by an independent that my lower control arm bushing was broken and needs to be replaced.

1) How can you tell when the bushing is broken?

2) How hard is it for a DIYer to do.

3) I know I will need a spring compressor but do I really need a press for the removal and insertion of the bushings?

Thanks for the help in advance.

Tom

myarmar · #2 04-17-2003, 09:14 PM

Tom, yes you need special tool for these bushings. I was quoted $757 for it. Here is a picture of the tool:

#3 04-18-2003, 07:17 PM

Thanks for the picture and the info..
I was thinking that I could get away with just using a BIG C clamp to insert the bushings. From looking at the picture it looks like the same kind of way of squeezeing the bushing in to the control arm.
Have you used the device in the picture?
How does is work?
Do you have to have the control arm off to use the device?

Thanks,
Tom

myarmar · #4 04-19-2003, 12:37 AM

Tom, I don't have this tool. I don't think you have to remove control arm but after spring removal it is very easy and you'd be able to work on the workbench. To remove control arm you'll need puller for the lower ball joint.
Reg. Mike

Here is an instruction for bushings:

myarmar · #5 04-19-2003, 12:38 AM

More instruction:

stevebfl · #6 04-19-2003, 02:14 PM

The problem with dealing with this bushing is that it has a hydraulic center. As a result the bushing can not be driven in by pressing on the end. We use a tool of our own creation and do the job on the car. Our tool looks like piece 012k in the above pictures. I have an image in my computer at the shop if anyone would like to see it.

The main expense to the MB tool is in the portion used for extraction. My methods aren't pretty and you sure won't reuse any of the remains. But then who cares what the old bushing looks like when its in the trash.

myarmar · #7 04-20-2003, 12:26 AM

Steve, please post a picture of your tool. My understanding was that 012k used for old bushing removal and used as an additional support for 012m? How to find out if the bushing is no good?
Thanks, Mike

Peter Guenther · #8 04-20-2003, 10:15 AM

I saw a bulletin, that describes the process, and with the special tool the bushings can be replaced with the "A" arm on the car. The process just shows the spring compressed and the arm lowered! I think they allowed 3hrs for the whole job.

#9 04-22-2003, 06:52 PM

Mike,
thanks for the pictures they help me understand the mechanics of the device. Thanks for the instruction too.

Steve,

That would be great if you could post that picture you have of the clamps that you made. What did you use to make them?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the clamps labeled 012k are guides for the circular tube used to compress the bushing into the control arm. What is it that you use to replace the tube for pressing in the busing? I would think a plumming tube, but what diameter?

Thank you all for your help!

Tom

#10 04-22-2003, 07:08 PM

OOps I did not look close enough at the pictures. I see now that the clamps are used for the removal of the busing. There is a tube used for the insertion. Look pretty simple to make a tool for the job with a plumming tube and some steel plates, long bolt and some nuts.

Thanks guys,
Tom

myarmar · #11 04-25-2003, 11:24 PM

This is the bushing:

stevebfl · #12 04-26-2003, 11:19 AM

I looked all over and couldn't find the picture. I may take another but my wife is very touchy about lending her camera. My old digital doesn't readily hook to any of my computers so I have quit using it.

The big picture above shows the problem with just pushing the bushing in. The bushing must be pushed from the right side in the direction of the left. The center of the bushing (the lighter metal can not be pressed on. The lip on the black portion must be whats pressed on. Our collar that resembles the item in the tool picture that is bolted togetherclamps in the gap between the black lip and the light colored metal. With it in and secure the center section can now be pushed as it can't move and the force is directly transferred through the tool to the lip.

BTW this discussion and the other about the Klann tool made me look back at my tools. it one looks to the klann tool their are four pieces necessary for all springs. Two sets of spring plates and a long and short puller on for the front and one for the rear. A number of years ago I bought the smaller plates thinking I might make the tool to pull them together. The plates have a very unique attaching configuration in the center and I had decided that there would be no safe way to build an inexpensive tool.

We had an e430 in on Thursday that ran into a curb and bent the left side control arm. I ordered the Klann tool on thursday but of course it doesn't come overnight from MB (from MB at 20% over net the tool was about $550). Yesterday we install the control arm using our old methods and had no problem with the install. We did have quite a problem getting the adjustable bolt kits installed properly though and I am convinced that will be made a lot easier with the proper compressor.

myarmar · #13 04-28-2003, 12:08 AM

Steve, what do you think about this "tool"? I cut about 7.5 inch long steel cable with plastic skin. It has 1/4 inch diameter and goes in the gap with some tension. I used big hose clamp to hold it there. Do you think it would work?
Thank you,
Mike

myarmar · #14 04-28-2003, 12:10 AM

This is the bushing with clamp and cable inside:
Thanks, Mike

stevebfl · #15 04-28-2003, 08:47 AM

I like it. It might actually work. The tool we had machined is to accomplish the same thing.

You are ready to press. Now all you have to do is properly interpret the bushings orientation. The key is that the drawing in the service manual shows a notch that in reality is just a depression that has been semi covered.