WOW absolutely great shots! Unfortunately I just cannot find marks like those anywhere on my cam plates.

I have these two "Tools" and neither one helps locate any marks like the ones you pictured. I am currently attempting to determine whether I have a M276.8 or M276.9 Engine. I believe it is a .9 but the service rep from MB should be calling me back with the specific number. Once I know which tool to use, I'll attempt to align the cams with it.

I searched with both tools on both backing plates on the cams and cannot see any marks like the ones you show. I sure wish they were visible.

I will check again after the sun goes down a bit to eliminate some glare.

I understand that WIS AR05.20-P-6010GQ shows positioning of cams at 53 degree timing mark, with the valve cover mounted. I am going to try that.

Alex

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you can zero in on correct marks by comparing left side if left side wasn't disturbed,by looking at 53 degree line up of cam sensors, a light shining on the mark from an angle helps

OK I found the exh mark (just like your picture!) after removing the cam.
There is only 1 mark on the intake…/ could this be it?

Alex

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yes, can you take another pic further back, I want to see the cut outs

Whatcha think?

By the way, Thanks.

Alex

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put that intake cam in the head clean and lube set the lazer mark level with the head at 40 degrees, put the two holdown tabs on the cam, then the exhaust then the tensioner, do not rotate with the valve cover off, if you want to check you can install most of the vc bolts and test by rotating 360 twice and pulling valve cover and checking that your marks lazer marks are level with the head,or make new paint marks at the adjuster to front of the engine but I would use the laser marks, remember don't confuse 53 degree check that's only used to check adjusters thru the cam sensors holes in the valve cover , you add17mm to 40 degree mark , because some motors don not have a 53 mark, they stop at 40, so you add a strip of tape 17mm to the 40 that's your 53 mark, at the 53 degree mark timing is checked thru cam sensor holes

Info

When all 4 cams windows are visible at 53 degree mark thru the sensor holes your done

Amazing.

Thanks for the help. I certainly would not have gotten this far W/O ya.

I'll post progress.

And now...

Alex

Cam timing

Looking at picture in no.18 ,it does look like a picture I found in wis, of lazer mark at intake

Picture of intake

Update:
Cams are lubed, installed, aligned.( a little tricky)
Tensioner installed.
Valve cover cleaned, sealed, installed. Screws torqued to spec plus mode 2 (90 turn)
Front cover cleaned, installed, torqued.
New plugs in, new plug wires, all torqued and installed.
Breather inspected, cleaned, installed.
High pressure fuel pump inspected, installed. Fuel plumbing installed.
ECU installed. connected.
Now working on brackets, cables, hoses, and what the %^&* is that's.
Tomorrow expecting delivery of 6 lower intake manifold gaskets... last parts needed (I hope).
I'll post when it starts.

Thanks NULU for the critical info.

Alex

Halexb - did you remove the center firewall insulation to remove the upper intake manifold? If not, how did you access the two bolts at the rear of the manifold? I ran into this issue earlier this year when I replaced the spark plugs. The WIS calls for removing the upper manifold but I could not remove the wiring harness from that center section of the insulation. With that insulation in place I gave up trying to access the bolts and did the job with the manifold in place. No fun - the driver's side was a bear. Any advice would be appreciated.

Hey Vince,
No, I chickened out of that. The two screws at the back are brutal but there are some good things about them.
The screws are set through rubber collars and won't fall out when they are unscrewed from the engine. Once they are loose stop turning them.
They are the same as the front two screws so the same socket will work.
The area of the manifold the screws pass thru in the back is different than the front. The front is a well type of configuration and the back is not. see pictures.
The upside down picture shows the "removed" screws retained in the manifold.
I used a long Torx socket, and an extension to get them started. Once they began to turn I switched extensions and finally unscrewed them by hand.
It's tight back there. And it's far away from the front of the car.
I used a blanket to cover the engine, a short step ladder to boost me off the ground, and layed out over the engine to get closer to the task at hand.
I dropped a few sockets and extensions and finally removed all the underside pans.... and found an oil leak... but that's for another day.
Very cramped quarters indeed.

Alex

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