I am a newbie to the board with some intermediate mechanical experience as a DIYer. I recently changed out the front pads, inspected the rear pads, and removed a ton of air from the brake lines on a relatively well maintained 1993 MB 300E 2.8 (W124).

2 days after completing that I notice a slight wobble and check and inflated all 4 tires. On the way back from the beach I pull over and as I am making a slight right turn... POP and dragggggg...

I have an attached the pic that I took immediately after it happened and before I had it towed home.

Does anyone have experience and know the DIY level of experience to fix this mid-major job?

As well as the options for MB loaner or local parts stores that may carry them.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Here's a very good thread with some good pictures

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/268050-how-replacing-ball-joints-w124-300e.html

If you decide to go that DIY route I have the ball joint tool seen in those pictures

I think for the '93 you have to replace the whole control arm.

Here's a DIY: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W124/81-SUSPEN-Front_Wishbone_Replacement/81-SUSPEN-Front_Wishbone_Replacement.htm

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Prost!

I have a homebrew press which has removed about 2 dozen W124/201 ball joints to date.

Its not too bad of a job, it can be tackled anywhere from complete caveman level of literally hammering out the old socket and using a jack to push the new in to DIYing a press to using a MB tool or replaceing the arm.

It all depends on how much time/money you are willing to spend.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

Inspect the control arm bushings before you decide what to do, if you suspect them...and you should at 200k+...you are really better off buying new arms. At least for me it made sense due to the time involved to swap bushings and ball joints as I did not own the tool to do either on the W124.

If you do R&R the arms, be sure to mark the eccentrics in relation to the subframe prior to removal. It will make initial alignment settings that much closer.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Oh I missed that, good call!

Thanks all. And more time than money, but the tool at this point is what I need most.

I may just bite the bullet depend on the quote from a local mechanic then look to acquire the tool as I'll be looking to replace the other side soon considering the mileage on the car.

I can't tell 100% from your picture but as someone mentioned your 93 may have control arms with NON-replaceable ball joints. But if yours are replaceable, as I'd mentioned in mr earlier post I have that tool and I rent it out with a deposit, if you end up being able to replace your ball joints and want to do both of them you can save quite a bit if you DIY. If you decide to go that way feel free to PM me about the tool. Either way good luck with getting your car back up driving again.

The ball joints for model years 93 - 95 are not replaceable. You are going to need to replace the control arm. Best to carefully inspect the other side as well. If the one side is that bad, the other side might not be much better unless it is not the original.

EDIT: Not all 124's had nonreplaceable ball joints. See post 14 by Zulfigar.

+1 replace the entire arm. You will need a spring compressor and some wrenches, and the car will need an alignment when you're done.

Option A:You could press in a new ball joint with a c-clamp or hammer it in place. Newer bushings are cheaper than a new control arm, but you will lose time. It's up to you what you do.

I'd choose the cheaper route, do my own labor and save $$$.

Option B:
Replace whole control arm, acquire spring compressor, pay for an alignment.

Option A is a better choice in my opinion on a boring Saturday or Sunday.

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

There is no option A. Ball joints are not replaceable on W124 model year 93 (and 94, 95).

EDIT: Not all 124's had nonreplaceable ball joints. See post 14 by Zulfigar.

What an idiotic design. I'm glad I can on my w210, and my 92 w124.

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

That blanket statement is incorrect.

the 95 diesels have replaceable ball joints - I replaced them on my car, the 93 300E 2.8 have replaceable joints (done them too) the only cars having non replaceable joints are the

E320
E420
E500

or any car bought/built with sportline package.

the picture in the first post is quite blurry - I cannot see any ears on the arm boss denoting its an arm in which the joints can be swapped out.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

I do apologize. I hate when people give incorrect information on forums.

That arm does look however to be one without the replaceable joint. I wonder if it had been replaced previously. A closer picture of the joint would help.