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  #1  
Old 12-05-2012, 02:33 AM
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Fan Clutch W124 by URO Parts

Needed a fan clutch, old one was spinning freely when warmed up, when it should have felt like peanut butter inside. Boneyard clutch will usually have grime on the front, a sure sign that it has leaked out oil also. Bought this Uro Parts from a large online vendor, under $60.

Move the fan shroud back from radiator, reach in with that handy 8mm low profile ratchet, pull up on the serpantine belt to increase tension, and a sharp yank to break it loose. If you pull slowly, the pulley will turn. There is a handy spot on the back of the pulley for a special tool or some bent nose pliers to wedge and prevent the pulley from turning.

Note the little valve under the thermal strip. Some owners have re-filled it and re attached the thermal strip. 5 mm removes fan from clutch. Note that fan has the word "front" molded into it, the cupped side of blades goes toward block. The old clutch had extra paint on it, identity system for the junkyard.

My results were an improvement. Before, after an expressway run and stopping at a light I would see temps rise to almost 100 and drop back down. Now the change in temp keeps the needle of the gauge on the 8, moving a little across that number. Rad was new 3 weeks ago.

Attached Thumbnails
Fan Clutch W124 by URO Parts-p1120565.jpg   Fan Clutch W124 by URO Parts-p1120566.jpg   Fan Clutch W124 by URO Parts-p1120569.jpg   Fan Clutch W124 by URO Parts-p1120567.jpg   Fan Clutch W124 by URO Parts-p1120571.jpg  

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  #2  
Old 12-05-2012, 02:53 AM
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Good work. The fan clutch is an important part of the cooling system.
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  #3  
Old 12-05-2012, 03:57 AM
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I sincerely wish you good luck with it.

As it happens I just left the bathroom and what I flushed down the toilet was what I feel should be done with most URO brand parts. Please keep a close eye on it and inspect it regularly, perhaps at every fill-up. I hope it provides you better service than the brand would otherwise suggest.
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  #4  
Old 12-05-2012, 05:28 AM
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Uro brand sucks,if you like repeating jobs eack year then Uro is your choice
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  #5  
Old 12-05-2012, 05:53 AM
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Thanks for the writeup and pictures. I'm sure it will help others. But I have to agree -- URO brand is the worst parts manufacturer I have ever known.
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  #6  
Old 12-05-2012, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Can't Know View Post
I sincerely wish you good luck with it.

As it happens I just left the bathroom and what I flushed down the toilet was what I feel should be done with most URO brand parts. Please keep a close eye on it and inspect it regularly, perhaps at every fill-up. I hope it provides you better service than the brand would otherwise suggest.
What a waste of good water.
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  #7  
Old 12-05-2012, 10:28 AM
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A new Uro Part is a step up for me, I usually fly low and fast with the partz vulturez at the boneyard. The trick at the boneyard is finding a new oem part on a dead vehicle. Fan clutches are usually grime coated in the front, from loss of oil. They may even feel firm when cold, but I have been burned many times. Did see a 190 where the owner had run a bead of silicone around the the clutch and the pulley, guess it might get you through to next payday.

I paid good money for a new Nissens radiator, and got a knock off built under contract for Nissens. Posted about that. I suppose for older vehicles we should be lucky that any corporate bean counter views it profitable to keep producing the parts for a diminishing pool of owners. Eventually we'll all be scavengers to keep them running.

Note: I replaced the stat first, with an 82C rather than 87C version. I like things just a little cooler, it gets into triple digits here in the summer.

It is a good point that I should be suspect of a unit that costs 1/3 of the going rate. Will certainly keep the Mark I eyeball on the heat gauge (hey, at least we got one, and mine still works better than the odometer that just quit).

For those that would like one of those wrenches, it came from Lowe's tool aisle, lots of things on sale these days, you can always use a fitted set for the trunk, etc. Just don't let SWMBO wander down to major appliances while you are dazzled by all the chrome tools....
Attached Thumbnails
Fan Clutch W124 by URO Parts-p1120562.jpg   Fan Clutch W124 by URO Parts-p1120561.jpg   Fan Clutch W124 by URO Parts-p1120570.jpg   Fan Clutch W124 by URO Parts-p1120572.jpg  
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  #8  
Old 12-05-2012, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guyton Buzz View Post
Needed a fan clutch, old one was spinning freely when warmed up, when it should have felt like peanut butter inside. Boneyard clutch will usually have grime on the front, a sure sign that it has leaked out oil also. Bought this Uro Parts from a large online vendor, under $60.

Move the fan shroud back from radiator, reach in with that handy 8mm low profile ratchet, pull up on the serpantine belt to increase tension, and a sharp yank to break it loose. If you pull slowly, the pulley will turn. There is a handy spot on the back of the pulley for a special tool or some bent nose pliers to wedge and prevent the pulley from turning.

Note the little valve under the thermal strip. Some owners have re-filled it and re attached the thermal strip. 5 mm removes fan from clutch. Note that fan has the word "front" molded into it, the cupped side of blades goes toward block. The old clutch had extra paint on it, identity system for the junkyard.

My results were an improvement. Before, after an expressway run and stopping at a light I would see temps rise to almost 100 and drop back down. Now the change in temp keeps the needle of the gauge on the 8, moving a little across that number. Rad was new 3 weeks ago.
I refilled the original clutch on my engine about more than a year ago and its still good.
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  #9  
Old 12-05-2012, 02:52 PM
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I did that once on my 300TE, used the same oil as the rear suspension, because I had a five gallon bucket of it from Shell oil.
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  #10  
Old 12-05-2012, 03:05 PM
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I've used Uro fan clutches on BMWs, never had any issues.
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  #11  
Old 12-06-2012, 02:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guyton Buzz View Post
I did that once on my 300TE, used the same oil as the rear suspension, because I had a five gallon bucket of it from Shell oil.
Im pretty sure that the five gallon bucket was not a 7000 cst silicone oil if you used it for your SLS. You can buy the silicone oil at an RC hobby store for under 10 dollars.
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  #12  
Old 12-06-2012, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
Im pretty sure that the five gallon bucket was not a 7000 cst silicone oil if you used it for your SLS. You can buy the silicone oil at an RC hobby store for under 10 dollars.
I got mine from Toyota. I've redone at least three fan clutches and they are all still working fine after years. It is by far the cheapest way to do it.
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  #13  
Old 12-06-2012, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwogaman View Post
I got mine from Toyota. I've redone at least three fan clutches and they are all still working fine after years. It is by far the cheapest way to do it.
You bet, my car's fan clutch with a MB star is operating sweetly with no problems after a year. Still have a bunch of the oil sitting on my shelf.

I also filled a clutch for a BMW E39 - it also is working good.
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  #14  
Old 12-06-2012, 11:45 AM
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I have the craftsman Max Axxess wrench set but it doesn't have a long handle or a flex head. Nor do I have it with an 8mm allen socket for the special socket type.

I used a breaker bar, deep 10mm socket, and 8mm allen key with an 8mm ratcheting box wrench stuck on it to remove it. I wanted to find the shallow 8mm socket from Stahwhile or Hazet but Samstagsales doesnt seem to have it.

Anyways... good luck with that URO fan clutch. I was going to buy a new fan clutch but I just so happen to have a 606 fan and clutch sitting on my work bench to install for my OM603.

I remember doing the radiator on my Cabriolet and I think removing the fan clutch on the M104 is easier than the diesels, but it's been a while.
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  #15  
Old 12-06-2012, 01:45 PM
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URO is an absolute gaurantee that it will fail. Be prepared for it to shear off taking out radiator, belt and everything.

Time and time again is there document FAILURES of URO parts.
Only last week did a set of URO tie rod ends break completely and could have caused a serious accident for a member over at BW.

If it lasts 50k miles, I'd be extremely surprised.

Best bet? Return it and get OEM.

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