I recently purchased a 1989 300CE. I love the car so far, but I have a few questions since I acquired it.

1. When operating the HVAC I can hear a gurgling noise coming from the dashboard. It almost sound like running water from a tap or hose. It stops immediately after I press the "0" on the automatic climate control panel. Is this normal?

2. I need to get extra keys cut for the car. I took the key to the local locksmith but they told me that they couldn't cut it and that I would likely have to go to the dealer. Is this true?

3. How can I tell if my car has the factory alarm system? I checked the Russian VIN website and it says that it has the anti-theft warning system. Is there not a light or indicator that will come on to indicate that the alarm has been activated?

4. My seatbacks don't lock even while driving. How do I correct this? I understand that they are vacuum locked when the engine is running and the doors are closed. What can I check?

5. The car is difficult to start. I often require to feed it a bit of gas to get it started and keep it running. There is also a rough/uneven idle. I have ordered the factory service manual on CD as well as the Haynes manual to try and diagnose the condition. What things should I look into? I'm thinking that one or more of the injectors is not operating correctly. How can I find out which one is the culprit?

1. Engine coolant "Doing It's Thing" in the HVAC system
2.Unfortunately the Dealer is the only option...If you want the keys to match
the locks currently on the MB.The Keys are STEEL and are cut at a Texas MB location...Take your DL and Registration into a dealer (proof of ownership)and
they should have your new keys in about 4-5 days.
3.No, no IDIOTEN lights on the dash.Depending on the model it may flash it's
headlamps and blow the horns once.'Look for a minature "BullHorn" speaker
under the hood on the Driver's side.
4."MityVac" and start investigating the Vacuum system.
5. You got me, I'm strictly a Diesel MB person.

5a.One of the Gasoline MB experts will be along shortly to help you.

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Thanks for the advice, I feel better knowing that the noise from the dash is normal.

some locksmiths can cut these keys (blanks available on ebay) by using a small mill ~~~ the red dots on your keys contain an alarm chip to activate and deactivate the factory alarm ~~~ dealer only for those

you can check your alarm ~~~ lock yourself in with a red dot key, open the door and see if the horn goes off, factory alarm also has a connection on the back of a factory radio too

need to check fuel pressures with a guage setup on the hard starts ~~~ hot start? cold start? ~~~ could be as simple as a fuel pump check valve

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1989 300ce smoke silver / brazil, in a constant state of flux ~~~

No chip, just a plastic dot, eliminated on later years.

All US '89s have the alarm.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

My key does not have the red dot like the manual says. It is a Canadian car though. Maybe it was replaced over time with one that didn't have the red dot? As far the hard starting it can be hot or cold starts. I would say that even when the engine has only been shut off for an hour and I come back, it won't start without throttle. How hard would it be to replace the injectors myself with the CD manual and the Haynes manual?

MY 88 300ce alarm has no indicators of any type. I have triggered the alarm accidentally by locking the door with the passenger door ajar. Twice this happened, the last time two weeks ago when the GF closed her door after I had locked my side and the pass. door failed to close. Trust me it works.
The shut-off is to turn the drivers door key to the unlock position with the door open, or is it with the door closed? ( I haven't locked the car since that night)

There is no dash indicator before, during or after. Only noise. I think the amber lights flash as the horn sounds. I think it alarms for a minute or two, goes quiet and starts up again and repeats this until it's de-activated. You can still drive the car, but I mean, wtf, eh?

Your other questions I can't help with.

Sign in yet at the 300CE owners roll call in the Open Discussion forum? Lots of pics of members' cars there, including the Red Baron.

I nearly forgot, some of the bulbs for that light the climate control buttons aren't that bright making it hard to see at night. How can I replace them?

There are two bulbs in there, replace them both even if one still works, new bulbs are much brighter than old.

Remove the zebrano-wood panel over it by removing two phillips screws just above the ashtray, rotate the bottom rearward and up, the top un-hooks.

You will likely see two silver or black pieces of tape covering two holes mid-height, un-tape them.

Inside are the two bulbs, a piece of vacuum-hose (rubber) will slide over the bulbs and pull them out.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

I will try the bulb replacement. Are they the common 194 type bulb? I also forgot to ask about the rear defroster and sunshade. The defroster doesn't seem to work at all. I looked closely at the rear window and I can't see the conventional defroster elements and harness that most cars have. Is it possible that the glass was replaced with one without the elements? I do have the switch inside the car though. Very strange indeed... I also have the power sunshade. It seems to go up rather slow and it doesn't quite make it to the top. It retracts effortlessly though. Is there something that needs to be lubricated, like a track or guide so that it will go up faster? I seem to think that the power windows are pretty slow as well in comparison to my other cars and ones I have driven. Is this normal or is there something clearly wrong with them?

Well if the key works fine then don't worry,but you might wanna change the locks and or the ignition if you have a spare cuz they might have the original and come get it.To see if there is a alarm roll down the windows lock the door with the key wait 30-40 seconds and with your hands unlock one door and open it.you will have to use your key to turn the alarm off either the ignition or the door.

The gurgling noise you hear is not normal. It's caused by air trapped in the heater core, but don't worry, there's an easy fix. MB Service Information bulletin 83/33a recommends installing a "gurgle kit" to eliminate the problem. It's a simple DIY job, and it works. Back in the good old days we did lots of them. When you go to your local dealer to order a spare key, ask them for a copy of the bulletin. If you decide you'd rather live with the "gurgling", don't worry about it. It won't cause any problems that will cost you in the long run.

If you want to try and fix it for free, try this. Raise the front end, or park on a steep incline. Remove the pressure cap and run the engine at around 2,500 RPM, with the heat on MAX. for about ten minutes. This should allow most of the trapped air to escape. This is what we used to before the "gurgle kit" was available.

Thanks for the tip. I will look into the fix and the bulletin. I looked into my power rear sunshade and it looks like it functions normally when the engine is running, but when off, it goes up pretty slowly. I'm guessing that is normal since the electrics don't have their full power with the alternator not running. The windows do seem to be slow, even with the car running. Any chance of an adjustment that needs to be done so they are faster? I'm still curious about the rear defroster. I took a close look and I can see what looks like elements, but they appear different that most other cars. It looks like they are sandwiched between the glass and the tempering.

(I know I'm opening a can of worms) BUT,
'Have you tested your Alternator's output (Voltage+Amperage)?
The Weak Performance of what appears to be the Windows/Rear Sunshade
may actually be Alternator faulted [Regulator is usually the "Bug"]
'Have you tested your Battery?

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

No I haven't had the battery tested. I guess I could check into that.