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#1
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alignment complete, still pulls hard
I have a 1990 300e 4matic that pulls bad to the right.My mechanic aligned the car, and it still pulls. He said it was probably a bad tire so I rotated the right front to the right rear. It still pulls? does this make sense? My front end is in perfect shape he said and needs nothing. Any ideas? I saw the alignment printout that shows everything is within the specs
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#2
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Do both wheels turn with the same effort? Perhaps dragging brake pad...
See if your alignment tech can help you a bit more here. Other ideas will surely follow. Best Regards, Jim |
#3
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If it's not a tire or dragging brake, I think some frame tramming is in order. A front end accident could change the steering axis inclination. This is the angle of the steering axis viewed from the front. The caster angle is the angle of the steering axis viewed from the side.
On most cars the steering angle axis inclination is fixed and not adjustable, but could be affected by accident damage. One check is that with the caster and camber set equal on both sides, the measured camber angle with the wheels at extreme left and right lock should be a mirror image. If not, the steering axis inclination could be different side to side. Duke |
#4
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thanks guys I will do some more research
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#5
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Just because it is in "spec" doesn't mean it is right.
I did 2 wheel alignments this week that were totally in "the green" yet with some tweeking I corrected them (they both pulled right, W203) while still keeping them in "the green". Tyre pressures must be even, ride heights correct. Rear toe is overlooked frequently and can cause the vehicle to "crab" If you drive on the left of the road then you'll need more negative camber and more postive castor on the left wheel. The opposite applies if you drive on the right. Even when you correct the alignmet the front tyres may already be worn into the old alignment pattern (worn to suit the camber). If so then swap the front tyres around. Swapping tyres shouldn't be done to initially correct a fault, you need to correct the cause of the tyre wear first. Please post the alignment figures you have you car adjusted to help find your problem.
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Alex. MB Tech Sydney, Australia Volvo 122S W201 190D 2.5 manual W202 C240 W203 C32 |
#6
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You must do a complete inspection of the suspension, front and rear. Any and all mounts, bushings, and links must be in good shape, and a four wheel alignment is required on these cars, not just the fronts.
Bad strut mounts will drive you nuts, as they allow the steering inclination to change while driving. Check for cracks (they are the rubber thing at the top of the shock tower). If there are visible cracks or signs the retainer bar has been touching the outer mount, replace them and do another alignment. You are probably due for rear links, too -- but check the rear subframe mounts. When these go bad, they allow the rear subframe to float around, usually causing the car to pull and be unstable. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#7
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Alignment: long time coming -> short answer.
After too many failed attempts at inde shops, I made an appointment with the local MB, Porsche, Audi dealer. $75 and my e320 Wagon is driving true. Although it's at the edge of some specs, the cause was frozen ball joint and control arm bushing. Some of the credit goes to whoever suggested going to the man who has to align the 911 series Porsche. To paraphrase Mr. Midddlecamp of Knopf MB, Porsche, Audi - "once your get the front aligned, the rear end is where the action is." Bob |
#8
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if the car is pulling very badly, as soon as you take your hands off the wheel no matter where you are on the road the car always pulls in that one direction, with your four wheel drive car I would put the car on a lift and check the workings of all the driveshaft.
I don't understand how your tech didn't find the pull, any alignment should end with a test drive, always! |
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