Achtung - Das schweinhund baby benz thread

[Stretch]

Unexpected time off for good behaviour (or something like that) - sun was shining too!

Cleaned the block surface with Eastwood's pre-paint stuff - really nice degreaser



Sprayed the head gasket with hylomar gasket dressing to try and stop future corrosion and to improve sealing



I'm re-using all but one of the head bolts. They're all in spec even the one I'm not using but that was corroded. Holes in the block have been cleaned as best as they can be - bought a new bolt from the dealer



Part number for head bolt = 615 990 02 12

For my engine - M102.910 - this bolt is too long. It needs spacer 102 016 03 76



So look out for that! Check new bolt lengths with old ones.

[Stretch]

Bugger!

The FSM makes one heck of a song and a dance about camshaft binding.

I need to read through it again - I don't want a repeat of what happened earlier on in this thread especially on me gucci Carlsson head.

To start off I just laid the shaft in the head and got a feel for it spinning round (with the engine builders oil coated on it)



I then fitted one of the rocker arm cradles



Span it round - all was good

PLEASE NOTE YOU MUST NOT OVER TIGHTEN THESE CRADLES WHEN THE ROCKER ARMS ARE NOT FITTED

THERE IS A DIFFERENT TORQUE SPEC - RTFM!

Removed the back cradle (over cylinder #4) and tried a different cradle over cylinder #3



All was good - removed that one over #3 and put in a new over #2



BINDING!!!!! <= bugger!

Tried a different cradle => BINDING!!!!! <= bugger!

Tried new cradle over cylinder #1 - all good



Fitted cradles above #1, #3, and #4 cylinders - all good




Time to break out the plasti-gauge and see what's what.

I will also measure out of roundness with the shaft fitted with my DTI

Checks will need to be made with the rocker arms fitted too - that could change stuff

To be continued

[gatorblue92]

That engine sure looks nice.

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by gatorblue92

That engine sure looks nice.

This getting more complicated than I thought it would though...

...I have only one type of the cradles supplied new. But =>



35 camshaft bearing 1020510610

35 camshaft bearing front (standard size) 1020510410

35 camshaft bearing rear (standard size) 1020512210

35 camshaft bearing central (standard size) 1020511710

Hmmm I have to check what was fitted originally on the engine. I thought I only had two different cradles on the bit I broke. I reckon I'll be PMing a certain book worm to check out some stuff for me!

[Stretch]

...I need to get some checks done.

Today I checked the old camshaft bearing supports. I only have two types

R102 015 21 10 for positions over cylinders #2, #3, and #4

and

R102 015 01 10 for the position above cylinder #1

Difference between the two types is the bearing support.



The camshaft is supported at "position #1" by this "extra" bearing surface with this special camshaft / rocker bearing support assembly.

The other bearing support positions of the camshaft #2, #3, #4 and #5 are only supported by the back end of the bearing support assembly. Position #2 is supported by the first bearing support (102 015 01 10) and it also does position #1...

...another strange thing though is that there is a difference between the other three bearing supports which all share the part number 102 015 21 10 =>

Two have no holes for the oil feeder pipe (that sprays oil on the camshaft) but one does.



So I started over and fitted the correct saddle (= camshaft / rocker arm bearing support) over cylinder #1 and then fitted the correct saddle with the hole for the oil spray pipe over cylinder #4.

I then checked the camshaft for any wobble / out of roundness by holding the magnet base firmly on a flat part of the alloy head =>



The needle barely move - I'm a happy man.

I then fitted the other two cradles and found that the camshaft no longer binds!

Great news - but it is still a concern because the clearance must be slim if more than one combination over cylinder #2 promotes binding. I'm still going to check the clearance for each camshaft bearing position (1-5) with plasti-gauge.

None of the part numbers for the cradles I have on either my new or old head tally with the numbers for the 2.3 M102 engine found on the EPC diagrams on that dealer from Atlanta.

I need to phone a friend to get this checked out properly.

I also have different colour codes on the valve springs - and it looks like as usual I've put them in upside down - though I could not see any difference between either ends of these springs when I had them out...

...this also needs to get checked out before I button it all down.

So today - some progress - some questions

[Dr. Sternschnuppe]

Originally Posted by Stretch

...for the rocker arm / camshaft cradles I have two part numbers that don't give any hits on google. They don't seem to exist.

There are just an old & new p/ns.
102 051 01 10 (old nr.) = 102 051 04 10 - the normal front camshaft bearing.
102 051 21 10 (as I remember?) = 102 051 12 10 = 102 051 22 10 - the normal rear camshaft bearing with oil hole.
102 051 02 10 = 102 051 08 10 = 102 051 17 10 - the normal central camshaft bearings

There are 3 types of the camshaft bearings - 1 front, 2 central & 1 rear. The front camshaft bearing have 2 bearings. The central camshaft bearings are identical. The rear one has oil hole.
The each camshaft bearing have individual cast number corresponding to number of cylinder/position (1, 2, 3 & 4).

[Dr. Sternschnuppe]

And I have some valve springs with colour codes I can't find any information about. They have three colours - white, red and blue.

There are 3 versions of the valve springs for the M102 engines. Its have identical characteristics. Each version have individual color coding.
1) 102 053 02 20, yellow+red or violet+red
2) 102 053 11 20, violet+yellow-orange or yellow+yellow-orange
3) 103 053 00 20, violet-red-yellow

1-ver. used on engines up to 05/1988
2-ver.
3-ver. used from 05/1991

The 3rd ver. must be used as springs in case of repair (as replacement for 1st & 2nd versions).

[Stretch]

Thanks for the information Dr Sternschnuppe - red white and blue springs are not on the list then I take it? I guess I'll have to go see the dealer about that - or measure my own spring rates...

...and those cradles I found on both new and old heads are strange with the same part number but only one with a hole...

[Dr. Sternschnuppe]

Originally Posted by Stretch

Thanks for the information Dr Sternschnuppe - red white and blue springs are not on the list then I take it? I guess I'll have to go see the dealer about that - or measure my own spring rates...

White+red marked springs has 102.992, but that springs have different dimensions...
Maybe just newer colors for coding (as in case with old & new p/ns)? Is there p/n on it?

Originally Posted by Stretch

...and those cradles I found on both new and old heads are strange with the same part number but only one with a hole...

Very strange.

[Stretch]

I've sent an email to Carlsson to see if they will tell me about their product they sold over 20 years ago. I bet I don't get a reply!

[Stretch]

Can anyone help with this?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/354660-w201-rear-window-heater-switch-wiring-plug-positions.html

[DieselPaul]

Did you get this sorted out in your other thread? I can pop the switch out of one of my 201s if you still need it.

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by DieselPaul

Did you get this sorted out in your other thread? I can pop the switch out of one of my 201s if you still need it.

I did thanks =>

Originally Posted by Mxfrank

A- Blue
E- Black
31- Brown
16- BY/Yl/GN

Originally Posted by jay_bob

A = aus or off (blue)
E = ein or on (black)
31 = ground (brown)
15 = power (yel/grn stripe)

Note the operating light is between E and 31 if you are trying to ohm out the switch.

Turning the switch "on" gets you continuity between 15 and E
Turning the switch "off" gets you continuity between 15 and A
There should be some high resistance (several tens of ohms likely) between E and 31 due to the bulb. If its an LED you will only read in one direction.

Originally Posted by Stretch

Thank you very much folks - I did find it in the FSM in the end.

Here's a link to the wiring diagrams

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11832/Resources/201Create/PDF/01002.pdf

And here's a screen shot showing the diagram



It is called the "defogger" in the FSM

[Stretch]

It is so wet. I think I'm going to have to buy a tent.

Welding in wind and rain is just not do-able.

Small progress between the down pours - finally got a tie rod fitted! After greasing the rod end (I found limited grease in the joint) the ball just span round in the socket when I tried to tighten the nylock nut...

...I put off this job until I could find the large joint removal press



You just need enough force to stop the ball from spinning. You don't need to really tighten - if you do you stand a chance of damaging the part you are trying to fit.

[Zulfiqar]

there is a hex cast into the stud of the ball joint, you put a hex key in there (allen key) and tighten the nut with a spanner.