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  #31  
Old 07-19-2012, 09:54 PM
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You might be able to keep the moss off by running a bare copper wire across the roof near the peak. The copper running down the roof when it rains often stops plant growth.

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  #32  
Old 07-20-2012, 12:41 AM
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Here's a link to the structural insulated panel roof systems

Structural Insulated Roof Panels | RAYCORE Building Roof Systems SIPs

It looks like a very nice house, more inside pics please
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  #33  
Old 07-20-2012, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Dudesky View Post
I don't put much weight in home inspections. They're very topical at best and they tend to not look in detail to keep their butts out of liability suits.
Wait until you sign the paper work...all kinds of outs for them.
I'd crawl through that entire house myself from top to bottom.
The things im most interested in finding out are well water quality, septic info, and radon testing.

Im definitely of your way of thinking though, getting in there myself and pulling stuff apart as well.

There is some rot/damage to the one side, some wood shingles are coming off, so I really want to know the extent and info on things like powderpost beetles locally, which may be a problem with that corner.
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  #34  
Old 07-20-2012, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
I'd say before anything else explore the actual condition of the wood shingles. the roof looks nice and square etc. so they might be a lot better than you think if you can get the moss off them.

Under the cedar shingles could be skip sheathing or plywood depending on when they were installed.

I would be very surprised if there are very many boards as small as 1x2. I would expect a minimum of 1x3 or 1x4 since you have to be able to walk on it as a practical matter.

If you will explore carefully the construction methods of the roof and the ceiling I will be happy to make a recommendation for insulation treatment. Doing it wrong can be very detrimental to your structure.

Ho, yeah, very nice looking house!
can the cedar shingles be powerwashed? I just did this with asphalt, I might try that first to uncover them. Im definitely going to be careful, though there is one area which concerns me, a small tree limb is up there sticking out of the roof in a manner that looks like its stabbed into the roof, but there are no leaks somehow.
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  #35  
Old 07-20-2012, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by kerry View Post
You might be able to keep the moss off by running a bare copper wire across the roof near the peak. The copper running down the roof when it rains often stops plant growth.
awesome idea! I will do more research on this
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  #36  
Old 07-20-2012, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Kyle Blackmore View Post
Here's a link to the structural insulated panel roof systems

Structural Insulated Roof Panels | RAYCORE Building Roof Systems SIPs

It looks like a very nice house, more inside pics please
more awesome info! thanks!

Here are some inside pics (unfortunately my phone is not great at pics, but it give you some idea)

this is off the main space-



this is the small kitchen area, all nice cabinetry, combined with a wood countertop



One thing that first amazed me is that the original schoolhouse floor is still in good shape, hardwood board, none less than 10 inches wide!



heres another pic showing the stove area, so the hallway to the right of the stove goes down to two bedrooms, a utility closet, and a laundry room. Across from the stove on the right is the bath. Insulation is actually quite good, a single window air conditioner in the back bedroom cools down the entire space in about 45 minutes. Supposedly, a low fire in the stove will heat the entire space just as easily, but there is baseboard electric heating in all the rooms as well. I can also cook on this wood stove apparently

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  #37  
Old 07-20-2012, 09:34 AM
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What a cool house. I love the character of older structures. Those floors are amazing.

Good luck with everything.
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  #38  
Old 07-20-2012, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by dropnosky View Post
...well water quality, septic info,...
I was thinking the same thing. Other issues like minor rot and a worn out roof can be fixed (usually), but if the lot doesn't perc, it doesn't perc.
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  #39  
Old 07-20-2012, 10:20 AM
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that does seem like an outrageous price! 1000 bucks a square foot? No damage to the structure?
1000.00 a square. A square of roofing is 100 square feet. Yes it is high but when insurance companies and contractors are involved anything goes.

As a do it yoursel project it would not be too bad usually. A lot of your decisions wil have to wait until you know what is there first. On older structures the existance or lack of rot is always a concern.

Since it is hard to ventilate an old roof like that and for many other reasons metal roofs when allowed are the way to go. Asthetically sometimes pleasing and sometimes not. Cost about twice at my location compared to doing shingles. Thats if there are no complications like you may experience providing a substrate for synthetic shingles.

Then both systems might be about par. Low installation time with metal and moss growth etc as an issue is no longer an issue. Not properly vented will usually not hurt steel roofing either.

Roof insulation can be planned in as well in one way or another as I agree if the tie collars are well engineered pull the false ceiling. Really opens things up. There are many ways to insulate inside as well. Gyprock and put false beam type rafters spaced four feet apart for example over it. A couple of inches of foam insulation on the roof or 1 1/2 inch stuff is really not enough if you intend to live there year round.

Although I do not know how cold it gets there. Energy prices will always trend upwards in my opinion for the remainder of your life .So plan for how long you want to reside there probably and plan renovations that take that into consideration.

Just looked at the picture. To pull that ceiling will become a major makeover. The place looks in decent shape inside so it would be quite a job. I probably would not pull the ceiling because of that. Especially if you have to farm much of the work out. From an economic perspective it may not be dollars well spent to rip and tear in there.

Quality and taste of the water supply is also always something to examine plus the state of the septic system. Most so called home inspections are or do raise issues of the ability and true understanding of the person doing them.

There is little doubt in my mind that you can probably replace the roof yourself. Or have some friends with past experience help you out. It is a small roof.

Last edited by barry123400; 07-20-2012 at 10:46 AM.
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  #40  
Old 07-20-2012, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Honus View Post
I was thinking the same thing. Other issues like minor rot and a worn out roof can be fixed (usually), but if the lot doesn't perc, it doesn't perc.
On any ground locally if it does not present at least a three percent slope. We have to install elevated systems now. Basically a mound of material with the field pipes in it.

Depending on regulations there you may be still able to do it yourself at some point if required. We used to do many things quietly in isolated areas but times have changed. Expensive to contract out as material requirements when done this way are pretty demanding and expensive here. Think forty dollars a cubic yard. Plus a pump up system.

So a good examination of an existing field should be part of a buyers inspection system. Not that it is just in working condition. Last time it was pumped out etcetra. Now if the property is a steal you have to make allowances that some stuff might have to be attended to as well by you. It does sound like hopefully the property taxes will be reasonable.
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  #41  
Old 07-20-2012, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
The cedar shingles are affixed to 1x2 lattice that is typically nailed to the roof rafters.

The shingles are quite soft and can easily be removed from the lattice. Leave the lattice in place if at all possible due to the work of removal.

Lay 5/8" or 3/4" plywood on the existing lattice and finish with 30 lb. felt, ice and water shield at the edges, and 30 year shingles.

I had it all done on this house for $4500 in labor about 10 years ago. The materials added another $2500. or so. It is 17 square. The roof is an 8 pitch which they walked.
I had my 1886 house redone in Feb.2002. Complete tear off. Amazing how the lattice and rafters look like new. Or better than new if compared to today's material. No scaffolding. When the asphalt overlay was done, they nailed thin 3"strips of wood over the cedar shingles I guess to help anchor the nails. The plywood went right over the lattice. Paper, then dimensional lifetime (?) 40 yr. shingles on top. $9,000.









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  #42  
Old 07-20-2012, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dropnosky View Post
can the cedar shingles be powerwashed? I just did this with asphalt, I might try that first to uncover them. Im definitely going to be careful, though there is one area which concerns me, a small tree limb is up there sticking out of the roof in a manner that looks like its stabbed into the roof, but there are no leaks somehow.
You'd have to be careful but it may work.
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  #43  
Old 07-20-2012, 02:48 PM
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You realise that old house means no more time for old cars don't you?
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  #44  
Old 07-20-2012, 06:26 PM
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My house is ~ 100 yrs old. Count on every project expanding. You will get the shingles off and find something more to replace. "While I'm at its" are exponentially more time consuming and expensive on houses than they are on old cars. Nice house.
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  #45  
Old 07-20-2012, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dynalow View Post
I had my 1886 house redone in Feb.2002. Complete tear off. Amazing how the lattice and rafters look like new. Or better than new if compared to today's material. No scaffolding. When the asphalt overlay was done, they nailed thin 3"strips of wood over the cedar shingles I guess to help anchor the nails. The plywood went right over the lattice. Paper, then dimensional lifetime (?) 40 yr. shingles on top. $9,000.
Yes, I remember your previous posts regarding that job. A very well built house.........

I'm not understanding "asphalt overlay with 3" strips over the cedar shingles"????????????

They previously laid lattice, plywood, and asphalt right over the cedar??????????????

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