considering buying an extremely old house - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

kerry · #16 07-19-2012, 04:15 PM

No structural work. gutters were replace since they were fastened to the lower shingles and had to be unfastened to remove the existing shingles.

kerry · #17 07-19-2012, 04:18 PM

The place sounds really cool. You should post some pictures.

You might be able to insulate the top of the roof if you use metal. Put sheets of insulation down and screw the metal panels through the insulation into the wood below. Again, that may not satisfy code. I know modified roofs are often put down over insulation sheets though. most of those are flat or close to it.

Brian Carlton · #18 07-19-2012, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

Prices have gone up. I just had about 20 square torn off and replaced after hail damage. Price around $20k.

I can still get a price of $50. per square to rip and $50 per square to install.

Add about $150 per square for all materials and the total for 20 square is $5K.

This is for a roof that you can walk (7 pitch or less). If you can't walk it, raise the labor charge to $80 per square. Total would then be $6.2K

No way to pay $20K unless you get ripped off.

JB3 · #19 07-19-2012, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

The place sounds really cool. You should post some pictures.

You might be able to insulate the top of the roof if you use metal. Put sheets of insulation down and screw the metal panels through the insulation into the wood below. Again, that may not satisfy code. I know modified roofs are often put down over insulation sheets though. most of those are flat or close to it.

heres a pic-

ill get more pics of the inside later on, but basically from the front to chimney, is one room with a small cutout for a bath. That front part is the old school house.

kerry · #20 07-19-2012, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

I can still get a price of $50. per square to rip and $50 per square to install.

Add about $150 per square for all materials and the total for 20 square is $5K.

This is for a roof that you can walk (7 pitch or less). If you can't walk it, raise the labor charge to $80 per square. Total would then be $6.2K

No way to pay $20K unless you get ripped off.

I wouldn't pay that $$. Those figures were negotiated directly between my insurance company and the roofer. In line with the dozens of other roofs replaced in my neighborhood in the last year due to hail.

kerry · #21 07-19-2012, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dropnosky

heres a pic-

ill get more pics of the inside later on, but basically from the front to chimney, is one room with a small cutout for a bath. That front part is the old school house.

Very nice. That would be an extremely easy roof to install metal roofing. Having done it on my own house myself, I'd recommend it. Not sure about the aesthetics of it. I'd try photoshopping to see the appearance.

Brian Carlton · #22 07-19-2012, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

I wouldn't pay that $$. Those figures were negotiated directly between my insurance company and the roofer. In line with the dozens of other roofs replaced in my neighborhood in the last year due to hail.

Yep, surprising what some roofers can make when they charge "retail".

Be clear about the fact that my guy, with two helpers, can easily rip and replace 15 squares in one day, provided they can walk the roof.

On this house, they busted their asses...........ripping all the cedar, hoisting all the plywood up 25 feet, laying down plywood, paper, and ice and water shield, laying the 17 square. It took six guys to do the job and they split it over two days, working about six hours per day (it was in late June and the temperature was up).

I got a damn good deal on the labor because I know him.

JB3 · #23 07-19-2012, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Yep, surprising what some roofers can make when they charge "retail".

Be clear about the fact that my guy, with two helpers, can easily rip and replace 15 squares in one day, provided they can walk the roof.

On this house, they busted their asses...........ripping all the cedar, hoisting all the plywood up 25 feet, laying down plywood, paper, and ice and water shield, laying the 17 square. It took six guys to do the job and they split it over two days, working about six hours per day (it was in late June and the temperature was up).

I got a damn good deal on the labor because I know him.

thats crazy, what they charged Kerry's insurance seems like it borders on fraud personally. Im surprised an adjuster signed off on that price.

I don't want to spend that kind of money on this little cabin, I was thinking a comfortable weekend of relaxing hammering and ripping shingle with the GF, also with lemonade and sandwiches eaten in the shade.

maybe with a few friends roped in to help, followed by running down the street and jumping in the lake.

kerry · #24 07-19-2012, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dropnosky

thats crazy, what they charged Kerry's insurance seems like it borders on fraud personally. Im surprised an adjuster signed off on that price.

.

That was the final negotiated price. The original proposal was more like $28k.

JB3 · #25 07-19-2012, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

Very nice. That would be an extremely easy roof to install metal roofing. Having done it on my own house myself, I'd recommend it. Not sure about the aesthetics of it. I'd try photoshopping to see the appearance.

I agree, straight everything, with an overhang, and no gutters. Ill try photoshop, though metal might be out of the budget currently. Need to get up there with a tape measure and see what im looking at for materials.

Of a more pressing concern is damage to the opposite wall from this pic. A sliding door was installed, and its got some rot issues.

Whats attractive to me about this house though, is the simplicity. Its like a 240D of homes. No hidden compartments, you can get under every section of the floor since its up on a stone foundation, and all piping and wiring underneath is totally accessible.

Honus · #26 07-19-2012, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dropnosky

heres a pic-

ill get more pics of the inside later on, but basically from the front to chimney, is one room with a small cutout for a bath. That front part is the old school house.

That's a beauty.

As for insulation, I vote for some sort of above-roof rigid insulation or a gyp-board ceiling under the rafters matching the slant of the roof with insulation in between the ceiling and roof. Of course, I don't know poop about insulation.

Great project.

Kyle Blackmore · #27 07-19-2012, 05:03 PM

If you want to preserve the sheathing under the existing roof, after stripping the cedar off, install SIPs (structural insulated panels) on the roof deck and shingle over them. Fine Homebuilding magazine has some articles on using them, I'll check when I get home from work which issue it was in.

kerry · #28 07-19-2012, 05:21 PM

MetalWorks® Steel Shingles

Dudesky · #29 07-19-2012, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dropnosky

need some advice on roofing!

Its an 1822 house, so 190 years old, very small at 900 square foot. It has a cedar shingle roof, which appears to have reached the end of life, most of it is covered in moss, and other stuff, and its coming off.

I was doing some research, and if I buy this house, im going to have to replace the roof surface, and do some work on one wall. Price is right though, its on short sale and a steal.

Ill know more after a home inspection is done on all the house systems, but I can tell just from looking at it the roof will be needed soon.

My question is what are the different substrates between the cedar shingle, and the asphalt roof material? Whats the best way to get the shingles off? Ive been watching youtube videos, and think it looks straightforward, but any advice would be appreciated.

I don't put much weight in home inspections. They're very topical at best and they tend to not look in detail to keep their butts out of liability suits.
Wait until you sign the paper work...all kinds of outs for them.
I'd crawl through that entire house myself from top to bottom.

t walgamuth · #30 07-19-2012, 07:59 PM

I'd say before anything else explore the actual condition of the wood shingles. the roof looks nice and square etc. so they might be a lot better than you think if you can get the moss off them.

Under the cedar shingles could be skip sheathing or plywood depending on when they were installed.

I would be very surprised if there are very many boards as small as 1x2. I would expect a minimum of 1x3 or 1x4 since you have to be able to walk on it as a practical matter.

If you will explore carefully the construction methods of the roof and the ceiling I will be happy to make a recommendation for insulation treatment. Doing it wrong can be very detrimental to your structure.

Ho, yeah, very nice looking house!