107 steering coupling

[107owner]

Hi. I'm new to this site and have learned alot from the experiences of others. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. My steering was loose so I replaced A drag link on my 1982 380sl. It was worn, but after I finished the steering was still loose. So had my son move the steering wheel while i was underneath(the car was jacked and blocked up 3 ways-still kind of scary)and I found my real problem was the steering coupling is very worn. My CD manual doesn't tell me how to replace this. It looks like you have to either remove the steering gearbox or the steering shaft to replace the coupling. Any advice would be helpful. BTW, I ordered the part on-line at www.*************** for $57.00 +free shipping for orders over $50.00. The dealer wanted $148.00 plus the gold fillings in my teeth. It pays to shop around.

[RickM]

Yup that's the order to R and R....damper, coupling then adjust or replace the gear box.

I'm interested to see how you do with the coupler. This is likely my nest project.

[Drake]

Yes it can be done ... but not for the faint of heart.
Just did my '81 380SL
First if it is a job you never want to do again ... this is one! pay the price for merc parts not after market!
Unbolt gearbox clamp ..coupling will slide up column a bit ... unbolt firewall boot under dash and slide up ..this will get you to top clamp bolt ...unbolt 3 15 mm bolts to gearbox ...this will let gearbox move a couple of in... coupling will now come off
when you put it back together have helper on the steering wheel for line up
spray paint gap in lower clamp to mark splines....top clamp can only be out 180 degrees
...but if you miss it turn signals won't auto turn off
good luck and have fun!h

[107owner]

Too late to buy part from dealer.
My part from Arizona should arrive within a day but i will look at it and see if it looks beefy enough.
My understanding is that are no aftermarket couplings available, only OEM. We'll see.
I took a better look at the coupling from underneath the car and it looks like I can loosen the coupling bolts (2) which are set (Allen) screws.
Then I should be able remove gearbox bolts (3) from inside fender well and move gearbox enough to remove coupling.
The Pitman arm may have to be removed also.
I will evaluate that once I start.
The tip about spray painting the gap is a good one.
When I have completed the job I will chronicle my experiences on the forum.
Now I have to actually do the work!!
Thanks for the help.
Kraig

[Drake]

You won't have to remove the pitman arm (after this many years that can be an adventure to its own) The couplling will slide up the column a couple of in ... it will be stiff (colapsable) tap with punch.
my new coupling came with star instead of allen.
finding metric star to fit took as long as the job.

[RickM]

Kraig, If you haven't done this job yet please take some pics. Thanks.

[RickM]

Anything to report?

[Captain Scott]

Originally Posted by 107owner

Too late to buy part from dealer. My part from Arizona should arrive within a day but i will look at it and see if it looks beefy enough. My understanding is that are no aftermarket couplings available, only OEM. We'll see. I took a better look at the coupling from underneath the car and it looks like I can loosen the coupling bolts (2) which are set (allen) screws. Then I should be able remove gearbox bolts (3) from inside fender well and move gearbox enough to remove coupling. The Pitman arm may have to be removed also. I will evauate that once I start. The tip about spray painting the gap is a good one. When I have completed the job I will chronicle my experiences on the forum. Now I have to actually do the work!! Thanks for the help. Kraig

Hey Kraig,
I am about to move on replacing mine. How did it go??
Scott
'74 450SL with 221K

[Captain Scott]

I am tight once again!

The main hiccup I found was in having to access the coupling bolts from the driver side inside the car, upside-down of course.
I had to take the boot off the firewall, slide it toward the steering wheel and then cut down an Allen wrench so it would fit thru the pass-thru.
Then it was simple.
Of course you need to mark BOTH shafts before you pull the old coupling.
Spray paint might work, but since you will want to spread the coupling to ease removal, you can just drive a slim chisel in to spread it and also mark the shafts.

Scott

[KATSCAN]

OK, I'm starting my coupler work now.
I can't seem to slide the firewall boot up the shaft.
removed column shaft screw also.
The boot won't move.
Everything tries to move with it as one piece.
What's the deal?