Originally Posted by fonzi

Post 10 and 45 come to the same conclusion.

Test fit carcasses are all over your shop too. You just need to pick a front end setup.
I wonder what this guy is using in post 81 here:
https://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/3020280-600-slc-build.html#/topics/3020280



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Frank Reiner

What a pity that Mother Benz did not know that dowels would be so necessary when she attached the intermediate plate to the iron block.
The lack of dowels must be causing you no end of grief. So many gearboxes trashed.

Originally Posted by rwd4evr

Sorry Frank. It's just not the case here. Most everything you have said is pretty spot on, not this time unfortunately. I really wish it wasn't so but there are two dowel pins in the block above the pan rails. The only three bolts that actually lineup are the two lower intermediate plate bolts and the top left at the outer edge of the cylinder Bank. None of the rest lineup including all of the pan flange on the alloy block pan. I'd say the top right Bank hole could be drilled and tapped but it's not going to help with accurate alignment. The iron block does indeed have two dowel pins in the block directly above the two bottom outer bolt holes. The alloy block has such a more substantial rear main seal cover plate that there's no way you could get enough carved out to fit over it I don't think. No top. Bolts

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by fonzi

So the dowel pins do nothing for this plate, and simply hoping that the bolt holes line up the plate is a bad idea.

Do I understand correctly?

Or is the plate obviously off center when using the bolt holes?

Originally Posted by Frank Reiner

It is fair to note that the pins that are pressed into the block are loose in the intermediate plate. The plate could not be tapped into concentricity if the pins were tight in the plate. The pins do serve to initially position the plate quite close to concentric during assembly. And if the plate cannot be tapped into concentricity? Mother Benz directs us to drill the holes larger! The pins are not load bearing dowels; just for positioning.

Originally Posted by fonzi

So the dowel pins do nothing for this plate, and simply hoping that the bolt holes line up the plate is a bad idea.

Do I understand correctly?

Or is the plate obviously off center when using the bolt holes?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by rwd4evr

My dowel pins were press fit. I had to knock it off with some tapping. How do you "tap into concentricity?" What are you measuring with? I find it very hard to believe the dowels aren't there to positively locate it. Every engine block has dowel pins or a locating ring system on the trans. The plate rgisters to the trans with the ring on it and to the engine with the dowels. If the dowels don't locate it the ring is useless too.

Originally Posted by Tony H

Maybe your the guy I bought them from. Did you make a cool crate for the crankshaft and include the driver bit for the screws?

Originally Posted by rwd4evr

So the whole idea here was/is to get more power from my 4.5 iron block engine, preferably with the stock bottom end. I don't think that any options are that great. 3.5 heads with 6cc less chamber will be good for some gains especially with the thin gasket that is a question mark on the iron block alloy head combo. If I got my hands on a euro long block that has higher compression pistons then added the 3.5 heads we may be in bussiness getting up near 10 to 1 compression and real power per cubic inch. But now I've figured out a combo of stock parts that could be a little higher rpm monster with the longest rods and slightly shorter stroke. Essentially a tall deck 4.2 with a 5.6 liter 154.5 mm rod and a piston shaved to get zero deck . Valve reliefs will have to be made so I'm not 100% sure it will have enough meat on top to be feasible. Gotta look at the pistons I have here to see. 5.6 heads with the lightened AMG style valve train parts could make this great. BUT.......

On top of that whole thing being a lot of work that may not balance nicely and scatter when I beat the **** out of it mercilessly, I drove a customers r129 briefly after rebuilding the frontend and putting tires on it. The best of them with the 722.6 and m119, holy **** that tank moves. Really makes me think it's dumb to even screw with the m117. Just do a steering rack conversion I've been plotting for a long time and put the elephant in there in place of the rat. My SLC is over 1000 pounds lighter (and shedding more) than the r129. It would probably be a low 13 second car on street tires. I have 6-7 m119 I've been collecting and maybe it's time to make it happen.

Sent from my SM-J737A using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Roncallo

Yes

Did it work out for you.

Originally Posted by Roncallo

Not likely the M120 in a 107 is a mid 13 second car. Sure a lot can be done with lightning and setting up for performance.

Also if you ever need a 560SL front end I will have one available shortly.

Originally Posted by rwd4evr

Yeah, my car will be down below 3000 pounds and I have a 3.69 rear in it. It's not a drag car any way. Plus manual trans that doesn't sap power. Is the m120 an alloy block out of curiosity?does it have the large square front sump pan like a w126/w108 v8 cars?

Originally Posted by Tony H

Been in progress for many years. All major machine work done but progress has been slow. I'm also doing a lot of restoration on the 3.5 coupe the engine is for.