Chronicle of my OM606 swap! - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

mytmousemalibu · #16 03-09-2015, 07:19 AM

Well, few more pics and small update, nothing too exciting since the last update. Spent a fair bit time just cleaning up parts. Got all the valves nice and clean. The prechambers took a spa trip in the ultrasonic, initially with water and simple green but it remove only a film of the grime on them. I switched to Marine Clean and to my surprise, all said and done they are SPOTLESS! Inside & out, not a speck of carbon, even down inside under the "ball" and down in the tip looks like brand new, very impressed. Since it worked so well at eating carbon away and the head had an abundance of carbon crud, it took a good cleaning with marine clean and a brush and removed most all the nasty minus the really hard carbon build up in the exhaust ports and a tad in the prechamber bores. Repeated soak n' scrubs with MC would do but to get with the program a bit quicker I proceeded to media blasting. The exterior and non-critical areas were gone over with glass bead which makes it look new. The machined surfaces (minus the deck) got blasted with fine grade crushed walnut media making a very smooth clean surface with no degredation. It did nicely in the PC bores and ports. With the head all cleaned up, it's onto prep for porting. I used layout dye and matched up the gasket and scribed in the pattern. The intake ports are surprisingly closely fitted to the gasket. Only slight enlargement will be done but the casting finish has room to improve along with the areas around the valve guides. The exhaust ports have the most room to improve. There is some definite room for blending in the seats, valve guide area, and the outlet. I am on pause for the moment waiting for a fresh box of cartridge rolls to arrive for porting. When they come, i'll post before/after pics of the port work

mytmousemalibu · #17 03-15-2015, 02:03 AM

Slowly moving along. Financial situation is the anchor on major progress right now unfortunately, hopfully not for long

Working on getting stuff cleaned up and prepped for reinstallation. I've started porting of the cylinder head, getting it gasket matched and the casting smoothed out and improving port efficiency. Lots of that left to do as I just started on it but there's some pics below of an untouched port and close to what they will look like

Also very interesting, I didn't know the pistons have a cavity under the piston top! You can see the two large holes by the wrist pin structure. The oil jets squirt the oil up into the cavity for cooling and it drains out the opposite hole, plus 2 small holes in the underside that drip the oil right into the oil holes in the top of the con rod to keep the bush nice n' lubed. Very well engineered, i'm impressed even more

I like that it uses full floating wrist pins!

Some good pre/post cleaning pics too. Pistons were pretty nasty but cleaned up well. The Grafal coating has a little wear but not bad at all, the rest looks very good. Sure looks like these have a coated top also, I was pretty careful with them! Also being as gentle as possible as not to rub off the phosphating coat

mytmousemalibu · #18 03-15-2015, 02:14 AM

Note: The image looking into the exhaust ports from the valve opening looks like I started porting but that is just a product of having to use the Dremel w/ sanding drums to remove the thick, hard layer of carbon buildup. The casting finish was just as rough as the intake ports if not worse. That was a nasty messy job!

mytmousemalibu · #19 03-17-2015, 11:06 PM

Here's a few more pics comparing the stock VS. ported area below the valve. Keep in mind these porting pics are just to show what can be done. These pictures don't represent the final grade of "finish". I will go back once they are all roughed out and blend and smooth on the whole porting job after and make any adjustments then.

MB300Dave · #20 03-20-2015, 07:23 PM

you guys havesome great tools & ambition, wish i lived closer to you hot rodders! LOL

mytmousemalibu · #21 03-20-2015, 08:36 PM

It can certainly be deemed a disease! The littlest jobs can erupt into a big project when you keep telling yourself, "well while i'm in here, I might as well do this too". I was kinda born around and grew up a gearhead and hot rodder. I grew up at the family carlot and started drag racing when I was 9yrs old with a Jr. dragster. I come from a family of gearheads! My dad & I ran an NHRA pro-mod Nova for about 5yrs, I was the crew chief/engine builder responsible for 3000+hp of methanol burning Hemi. This job is a breeze in comparison!

KarTek · #22 04-04-2015, 05:53 PM

Dude, ole buddy, ole pal... Would you do me a HUGE favor and tell me the size of the round outlet hole where the turbo is attached? I'm trying to decide what to do with mine but it's all together on the car now.

Thanks!

mytmousemalibu · #23 04-05-2015, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarTek

Dude, ole buddy, ole pal... Would you do me a HUGE favor and tell me the size of the round outlet hole where the turbo is attached? I'm trying to decide what to do with mine but it's all together on the car now.

Thanks!

I take it you mean the 3-bolt triangular flange yes? I can measure that fer yuh tomorrow or uh today I guess buy the time i'm posting this

KarTek · #24 04-05-2015, 07:57 AM

Thanks, I figured you had everything apart right now so it would be easy.

You still making progress on this build? I'm just getting back to being interested in mine since it's warming up here.

mytmousemalibu · #25 04-06-2015, 03:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarTek

Thanks, I figured you had everything apart right now so it would be easy.

You still making progress on this build? I'm just getting back to being interested in mine since it's warming up here.

Hey bud, I measured the hole and it comes in right at 1.5 inches in diameter.

I've been working on mine fairly constantly since the day the engine was delivered. For the colder days I load up the wood stove in my shop and keep on goin. It still gets rather cold since its an uninsulated & drafty steel building and my stove only takes the chill off that end of the building but I suck it up an go anyways

Its been a lot better since the past few weeks or so. Progress has slowed since I have no funding at the moment, stupid layoff. But I think I have a job in the making so things can get back underway. Still have plenty to do in the meanwhile. I'm about done porting the cylinder head and then it can go to the machine shop. I think i'm going to build a main girdle, I want extra support for the bottom end for extra durability. We have an excellent local metal yard and surplus store here, since Wichita has a lot of aerospace industry. They have nice big billets of metal and machined finish plate, tubing, etc. All kinds of goodies but I think i'm gonna get some 1" thick 6061-T6 machined aluminum plate to basically make a bedplate/girdle and a fabbed oil pan. I'd like to keep the weight down but steel is still an option. The tricky part is the portion of the pan that completes the bellhousing flange. I may cut it off the W210 pan and TIG it to the new pan. I have a lot of work to do but it will be worth it in the long run to have a dream-ride! In the midst of all this I'm swapping/updating the interior of the car too. From the 87's blood red interior with worn/torn seats to the better condition and updated gray interior from the 93' 300TE but the back half wagon parts are an issue. I have the needed grey sedan parts from my other 300E like the C-pillar trim, sedan rear carpet, etc. The rear carpet from the other car was nasty, open to the outside, rain, dirt, mice, etc, but pulled it out and pressure washed it and it cleaned up good minus some stains from rusty hardware that sat on it. I may try to cut the rear wagon carpet to fit. I need to clean up the rear seat and bits and disinfect and de-stinkify it all. Its overwhelming at times! But nobody is going to do it for my so...

KarTek · #26 04-06-2015, 12:52 PM

Sounds ambitious! You're doing it right with all the extra attention to detail. I'm too lazy at this point to put all the extra stuff into the engine since I'm not going all out on the power.

I hear you on the cold. I just kind of hibernate in the winter and it's just getting warm enough now for me to get interested in doing stuff out in the shop again.

I'm very disappointed that the outlet is only 1.5"... I was hoping it was up around 2" with room to hog it out a little more. I'm trying to get about 3.5 Sq in. area out of it so I can avoid building a manifold from scratch. does it look like there's enough room to hog it out an extra 1/4 " all around? Probably not since it's a factory piece made to pretty tight tolerances. Wonder if I could hog it out and then get it extrude honed? I just really want this project finished since I've been working on it for years now.

mytmousemalibu · #27 04-06-2015, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarTek

Sounds ambitious! You're doing it right with all the extra attention to detail. I'm too lazy at this point to put all the extra stuff into the engine since I'm not going all out on the power.

I hear you on the cold. I just kind of hibernate in the winter and it's just getting warm enough now for me to get interested in doing stuff out in the shop again.

I'm very disappointed that the outlet is only 1.5"... I was hoping it was up around 2" with room to hog it out a little more. I'm trying to get about 3.5 Sq in. area out of it so I can avoid building a manifold from scratch. does it look like there's enough room to hog it out an extra 1/4 " all around? Probably not since it's a factory piece made to pretty tight tolerances. Wonder if I could hog it out and then get it extrude honed? I just really want this project finished since I've been working on it for years now.

Well, as this car is, errr....was, my daily driver, I'd like to have it back under that moniker asap. There is some urgency besides my desire to turn the key the first time! I really want to get all the major internal engine work done so that I hopefully don't even need to open the engine up again. Exterior parts I might give passage to for the sake of getting it going. Like sticking the stock 603 pump on it for temporary. If I can, it'll go to Sweden to visit Goran before the first start

I was thinking about trying to use the stock exhaust manifold as an interim part but the outlet is so pitifully small and I'm going to use a 60mm inducer Turbonetics T60-1 with a T4 flange. So it would require a goofy adaptor tube, plus adding a wastegate port, etc, etc. And all that when I want to replace it with a proper pulse tuned header down the road.... I'll just save the delay and build the header now. More work and money but such is life...

I don't think theres nearly enough room to cut 1/4" out of it. I was rather disappointed by how dinky it was and the non-standard 3-bolt pattern. You might be able to improve it a little bit, get a porting kit, some flapwheels, etc. Not going to get to all of it. I don't know what a manifold would cost but I had ExtrudeHone do my Duramax injector nozzles, honed 50% over stock, and it cost me north of $600

It's not cheap, its a really good service but yeah. I would guess about $300-400 to hone one of those. About 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of a header if you bought one. I did a little reading on the STD forum and supposedly the max seen made with a stock manifold was about 450hp. I wonder what the EGT's were! Thats all hearsay. I did also have the idea of cutting off the stock 3-bolt flange about flush with the tubes and buying a cast iron T3 or T4 adaptor off fleabay and cutting one end of it off and match fit the holes. Either me or someone experienced with welding cast weld it up. Need a proper preheat and post heat which the best I could do is my shop stove

WINGAS · #28 04-22-2015, 07:54 AM

Malibu, I need to pull a 606 out of the 96 my son wrapped around a phone pole ( it sacrificed its life for his safety), and I cant decide where to lift it? Aint no big block chevy with many nice 3/8 holes at the ends of the heads.

Where to lift from?

Simpler=Better · #29 04-22-2015, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mytmousemalibu

Well, as this car is, errr....was, my daily driver, I'd like to have it back under that moniker asap. There is some urgency besides my desire to turn the key the first time! I really want to get all the major internal engine work done so that I hopefully don't even need to open the engine up again. Exterior parts I might give passage to for the sake of getting it going. Like sticking the stock 603 pump on it for temporary. If I can, it'll go to Sweden to visit Goran before the first start

I was thinking about trying to use the stock exhaust manifold as an interim part but the outlet is so pitifully small and I'm going to use a 60mm inducer Turbonetics T60-1 with a T4 flange. So it would require a goofy adaptor tube, plus adding a wastegate port, etc, etc. And all that when I want to replace it with a proper pulse tuned header down the road.... I'll just save the delay and build the header now. More work and money but such is life...

I don't think theres nearly enough room to cut 1/4" out of it. I was rather disappointed by how dinky it was and the non-standard 3-bolt pattern. You might be able to improve it a little bit, get a porting kit, some flapwheels, etc. Not going to get to all of it. I don't know what a manifold would cost but I had ExtrudeHone do my Duramax injector nozzles, honed 50% over stock, and it cost me north of $600

It's not cheap, its a really good service but yeah. I would guess about $300-400 to hone one of those. About 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of a header if you bought one. I did a little reading on the STD forum and supposedly the max seen made with a stock manifold was about 450hp. I wonder what the EGT's were! Thats all hearsay. I did also have the idea of cutting off the stock 3-bolt flange about flush with the tubes and buying a cast iron T3 or T4 adaptor off fleabay and cutting one end of it off and match fit the holes. Either me or someone experienced with welding cast weld it up. Need a proper preheat and post heat which the best I could do is my shop stove

Assuming the 606 exhaust is the same quality material as a 617 exhaust, you can weld to it just fine with nickle rods. I swear I saw a pic somewhere here or on STD where a guy welded a T4 flange straight to the 617 manifold and it was A-OK. Obviously preheating/buttering/sloooow cooldown will help.

Poke me if you're serious about making up a 606 tubular header-I can hook a brother up with a flange if there's demand.

mytmousemalibu · #30 04-23-2015, 04:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WINGAS

Malibu, I need to pull a 606 out of the 96 my son wrapped around a phone pole ( it sacrificed its life for his safety), and I cant decide where to lift it? Aint no big block chevy with many nice 3/8 holes at the ends of the heads.

Where to lift from?

Well, I didn't have to pull my 606, it came to me on a pallet and I have yet to pull my 603 out

I had seen pictures of a fixture someone made that bolted to the intake flange on the head with an angle iron bracket to hoist from. I'm sure that works but small fasteners on there worry me in aluminum threads a little but it was a long bracket that used a good number of the bolts. I did lift mine off the pallet and too the engine stand but I have a 4-point engine harness bar. I had the two front straps, one to the a/c compressor barcket and the other to a hole on the other side. The rear straps went to the bellhousing flange and that worked fine but it wasn't in a car either. Unfortunately MB didn't leave us much options on these engines, surely they have a special fixture for the dealerships. Glad your son is ok, thats always the important part! Whish I had somethng solid for you