Injection pump Timing
I have replaced the head gasket on my 1990 350SDL W/ 603 motor. All went well until I started it up. It runs rough with a lot of white smoke from exhaust. I thought a possible injector problem and cracked loose the lines to each injector and number one cylinder made no difference. I switched the number four and number one injector to see if the problem moved and it did not. I am beginning to think that I got the I.P out of time when R&R the head although I tried to keep tension on the chain. I have searched the forum at length and have read alot about the I.P and how to set the timing on 240 & 300 turbos but not alot on the 603 motors. Is the timing on this motor at 24 BTDC also as a starting point? I really dont want to remove the pump maybe someone has a idea to share. I did try to adjust the I.P as much as it will allow both ways but seemed to make it worse moving towards the motor and no difference away from the motor. Thanks for any help you all can provide.

__________________
Who needs spark plugs.

I would think that if it was an IP timing issue, you would see a change when cracking #1... They all should make the same difference.

I would see why #1 is not firing, perhaps a valve stuck open or worse yet something in the head/gasket causing loss of compression at #1..

What was your original reason for replacing the head gasket... Did coolant enter #1, if so you could have a bent rod due to Hydraloc. This will give poor compression..

__________________

79 240D my current toy
42 years a Diesel addict

240D sold
250SE sold
220D sold
280C sold
280S sold
300D (2) sold
300CD sold
300DT sold
300SD sold
380SL sold

The reason for the new gasket was a leak on the rear of the head. Had removed the head and it checked out good. Had no break through or mixing of oil and anti freeze.

__________________
Who needs spark plugs.

Hey Chainslap,

The IP will not change timing by R&R the head unless the IP was moved (pivoted on its mouinting screws). Cam timing can change if the head surface is machined or a different thickness head gasket is used. The IP timing is determined by the distance between the crank sprocket and the IP sprocket which does not change no matter what you do to the head. Unless the IP timing is drastically changed, such as being off bt one tooth or more, it won't make the engine run rough. It might cause knocking if timed too early and loss of power if timed too late. You have some other problems.

BTW, a Diesel is an ENGINE not a motor!

P E H

Chainslap

How did you resolve your earlier post about cam timing?

Was the chain removed? Was the cam removed.
If these were removed and the engine was set on the timing mark. He will have to retime injection pump.
Charlie

I did resolve the cam timing but must have gotten the I.P timing off. I am removing the I.P as we speak. It is a lot of fun. Ha Ha. Got it loose but something is holding it in. Does anyboody know if the fuel pump has to come out. Have given up for today.

__________________
Who needs spark plugs.

Oh boy....

How did you set the cam timing? Did you use the factory specs for 2mm of valve lift? Do you have a 603 engine manual?

R&R of the IP on a 603 requires several special service tools - Do you have them?

You must remove the vacuum pump on the front of the engie to access a 17mm bolt that hold the IP to the injection timer. This bolt is a reverse thread set-up, turn to the right to remove it.

No I dont have any manuals. I set the cam marks to line up and the marks on crank lined up to 0 degrees TDC. I do not know what the factory specs at 2 mm valve clearance means. Is it possible that I am just out on the cam timing?

__________________
Who needs spark plugs.

For the reasons P.E.H gave its more likely that you have cam timing problems than IP timing problems but I would say its not beyond the relm on conception that the pump to be off time.

If I were in your shoes I'd find a OM602/OM603 engine manual and spend some time reading it, learning by trial and error on these engines can get very expensive very quickly.

I will look for manuals. Are they dealer items do you know? Thanks for ypur input in this matter.

__________________
Who needs spark plugs.

I don't mean to sound harsh but you are really flying blind without the correct factory service manuals.

They are dealer only items but there are quite a few available on e-bay these days, all the information is also in the W124 CD but I find the CD versions of the manuals a royal PITA.

There is currently a 602/603 engine book on ebay. It does not look like there are any serious bidders at the moment.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2471118981&category=34227

You missed my reply in "tech help"


603's are either 17 deg ATDC =/- 1 degree for the early ones and 14 degrees ATDC +/- .5 degrees for the late ones. Take and set the engine to 17 by hand rotating clockwise, remove the 17mm head access plug in the side of the pump and look for the bar marker on the governor body, roll the engine back and forth untill you find it. Then look where the crank is. It sounds like it'll be in the 20's. Then rotate it twice through back to the same place and look again. (this properly loads the advance wheel and tensioner)

In order to move it more than 5 degrees you must remove the pump and jump it. I take and lay the pump on its side after removing it with the crank on 15 and the cam in overlap on #1 and set it to the bar. I then mark the pump shaft and body with touchup paint and carefully reinstall it, then look for the bar prior to driving it home. (replace the big o-ring as well as the bottem plate o-ring and rear cover gasket while it's off.) You can gently use vise grips to turn the shaft, grab it past the splines or you WILL be skrewed.

Good luck, without the LED timing tool this is sorta a hit or miss deal.


Joe

__________________
Project Smoker, '87 603 powered wagon
Hauler, 96 CTD can you say torque?
Toy 73 Cougar xr7 convertible
Acme Automotive Inc.
Raleigh NC
919-881-0364