![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Strong diesel smell ...
in the trunk. Where do I even attempt to start?
Very Strong! Can't see any diesel fuel IN the trunk but I can sure enough smell it! Oilslick |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
My wild guess if it is a W123 body would be checking the gasket at the fuel gauge sender easily reached by taking out the two screws holding the first aid kit.
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Check the vent lines at the filler neck, one of them may be torn. This will allow fuel to spill down the neck into the trunk.
Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks!
I just love this forum! Oh the money I have saved by gleaning the collective wisdom of you guys!
Oilslick |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
oilslick
Try replacing the rubber sealing ring where the tank neck comes through. fuel will run past an old cracked ring and stink up the trunk. My wife and daughter were always complaining about smelling diesel in the trunk. I replaced the ring w/o telling them last mo. I asked my wife if she still smelled diesel in the trunk and she said NO!!! .... I guess that solved it. ![]() ![]()
__________________
![]() 1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
When I experienced the same symptoms in my former '79 240D, the problem was a leaking fuel tank. A leaking tank will allow diesel to collect inside the trunk until it reaches a level sufficient to flow outside. Do you see any sign of diesel on the ground under the trunk. I hope not ... dealing with the tank is a nuisance. However, if you do have a leaking tank, I can suggest an inexpensive repair.
Phil '84 Euro 300D '85 300D |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
But seriously folks... I also have this problem, and found that my filling tube area was cracked at the base... JB Weld to the rescue! |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
No JB in this weld.
Nope, not JB for this job.
Instead: epoxy, fiberglass cloth, more fiberglass cloth and epoxy, thick neoprene for a cushion, caution during re-installation. For the repair to be long-lasting, the reinforcement of the cloth is necessary. Fortunately, you'll need none of this. But, fortunately for me, when I needed to patch my mysteriously-holed tank, this rather odd lamination did the job. Phil '84 'Euro 300D '85 300D |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Phil..."Nope, not JB for this job. "
I assume the tank and neck were plastic? I have heard that the larger (& steel) tank from a 300 will fit in a 240. The NECKS of both my blue and brown 240s are steel so the tanks must be also. I should take a peek and see. Concerning yours and all the elec problems being posted. sounds like its more than the Jeff. co vortex, maybe sun spots or possibly delayed Y2K. We didn't get snowed on anyway ![]() Steve Last edited by Stevo; 11-02-2003 at 03:09 PM. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
No, not plastic. Epoxy adheres well to both steel and aluminum, in my experience. The only science being cited here, however, is personal experience. I once reconstructed a Stihl chainsaw that had been attacked by a tricky madrona, using epoxy, aluminum plate, and a few screws. The repair outlived the compression.
Phil '84 Euro 300D '85 300D '99 Stihl 034 |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Some of the 240s did come with a plastic tank, and I can't remember what years. As the tanks get older they permiate and the only remedy is to replace with a metal tank.
Peter
__________________
Auto Zentral Ltd. |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|