Hi,

The car is a w123 83 300D. My hood is misaligned, and the clip that attaches the hood hinge to the fender has broken off.
Because of this, I have decided to replace the whole hood hinge assembly on the drivers side.

Would someone who has done this before, or someone who has experience parting these cars please walk me through the replacement? I assume it is a 2 person job, and if the hood is supported on one hinge the wrong way while replacing the other, the one that is not being replaced will easily bend under the weight and stress.

Any help would be most appreciated.

JMH

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

Hi,
If your planning on doing the job in a garage where you can support the weight of hood by a rope to a cross member, then you can leave it on but make sure you have enough height to open the hood to vertical, otherwise remove the hood which is only a matter of removing the windscreen washer pipe and four 6mm bolts on the hood edge above, hinge (can be done single handed but two people is easier).
Which ever way you decide to do it, first open hood to vertical, when you get to normal opening height release the sprung clip where the main spring attaches to the arm (one on each arm ) raise and support the hood, at this point the tension will be released and the springs can be removed (if you are going to remove the hood( easiest option) undo 6mm bolts, before removing, lower hood for safety, remove bolts and slide hood from hinges. Then it is a simple matter of removing the sprung- plate- clip from the end of the hinge pin, plus an 8mm bolt at the door end of the top link( watch you don't loose the bush ).Then fit new hinge and as Haynes manuals always say assembly is reverse of removal, when hood refitted adjust gap on hinges and secure. Job done
Ps If you decide to leave the hood on and support, pad with foam rubber between hood and windscreen, as the hood can push towards screen when hinge removed.Sorry to be so longwinded about it but it is an easy job Honest!!!

W123 hood hinge part numbers.

123-880-10-77 Support Hood
123-880-09-77 Support Hood


These parts are not on line.

Call Phil for help at
1-888-333-4642
Mon-Fri 9:00a-7:00p ET
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I took off my hood but cannot seem to get to the bolt at the back of the hinge assembly buried at the back of the spring pocket. I started to take off my fender but then couldn't figure out the front part where it mends with front section. Needless to say, I'm stuck and confused. point me in the right direction please and thank you! This is on my 82 240D.

picture attached.

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I personally wouldn't take the fender off.

What you need is a 13mm gear wrench and a flexible flat tool. I used a plastic bodyworking tool. Getting the bolt out isn't the crappy part, it's getting the bolt back in that's the worst. With the bolt in the gear wrench you need something to push it into the hole. Which is what the plastic tool is for.

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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]

wow an old one!

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

As Martureo said you need a ratchet gear wrench. Not the flat cheaper type, must be the Mastercraft 13mm reverse gear wrench with the angled head. Hinge must not be attached to hood. Glue the bolt head into the socket. Use a large screwdriver etc to get it started and provide friction. Then it's a piece of cake. Don't even think about taking off the fender.

That 13mm gear wrench will become the most useful tool in your kit!

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Beagle

I've got a 3/8" drive ratchet-less ratchet handle for doing this sort of thing. You just need to back it up by a tiny amount for it to grip and then turn the socket again - so you aren't encumbered by the more common got to go past the click ratchet systems.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I did not have a gearwrench just an open end 13mm wrench.
Slow and steady did the trick,
I was only removing the hinges for parts so I did not have to worry about reinstallation.
Not that I recommend it, but with the hood in max vertical position, I found it would stay in place on it own with one hinge removed.

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

That particular Bolt on mine appears to be rusted in really good. I would takes as much care as you can removing and start soaking it now in your favorite penetrating Oil.

On Mine the Water drains in that area had been non-functional for a long time and the Metal around the main Hing Bushing had rotted out.
Good luck with your project.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thank you so much! I will search out that Mastercraft reverse gear wrench tomorrow! I will make sure to take some photos too, so you all can see my repair. The drivers side spring pocket has a rusted through dime sized hole that drains water into the firewall and the passenger side is just rusty and I want to get them both fixed up. I bought the rust repair kit from **************.com, which consists of the Miracle paint, fiberglass sheets and the top coat chip guard spray. I hope that holds and keeps the rust out. Thanks again all!

When I blew compressed Air into the bottom of the drain all kinds of crap came out of the top.
Don't know if this is of interest or not:
Rusted Out Hood Hinge Repair
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=290024

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

You may have the typical problem that the pin seized in the bushing. If so when it lets go it destroys the mounting area. This by ripping out the sheet metal. If so that area needs repaired.

Not one of my favorite little jobs. Easy to avoid just by getting way back in there and oiling every few years. At least oil the other side as a part of the job. I may have the pin you are talking about confused though. The one I mention is way back in there.

That is what happende to mine. Also the Bolts that are way back in the tunnel appeard to be rustd in but the smaller Arms hinged OK on it so I did not attempt to remove the Bolts.

Also to do adjustment on the Arms I bent the Arms a little.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel