As posted in other threads, my "new" GSP axles have failed after 2 years and 5100 miles. By failed, I mean there is significant slack in the joint and it makes a loud click when shifting (mainly into reverse). My original axles have no such slack, but need re-booting.

Rebooting seems like way to go, but the shop that has an expander wants ~2hrs at C$120/hr plus I need 4 Dorman boot kits for another C$150.00. And then I have rebooted axles with 460k km on them.

My lower cost options:

-have rckoto send me replacement GSP axles under warranty. Freight is a killer even at their reduced rate.

- buy replacement axles in Canada for about C$85 each. One type is annular and the other homokinetic.

That leads me to my question!

With diff already apart, will it be easier for this 83 yr old to install the annular axles than the homokinetic? (I wouldn't take the annular apart to install). Did I read that it is sometimes hard to get the homokinetic seated in the hub?

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Places like Autozone have lifetime warranties on their axles no matter if they are made in China or not. That would be the first money saving way to go. Get another set under the warranty.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Find out what it costs to send your original axles to that famous place in Colorado USA. When you get them back, they will be totally rebuilt.

Another problem. I put Dorman Boots on mine. Some ripped. That was a long time ago. Since that time about 3-4 years back someone else used doorman boots and said nearly all ripped.

That only leaves the more expensive Astoria Flexx Boots that come in 2 sizes. The Astoria kit also comes with a much larger packet of grease. If you used dorman boots you need more grease.

This might be the place in Colorado.
https://www.cvjreman.com/about-cvj-axles/

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If you are removing the axles neither homokinetic nor annular axles are easier.

This company GKN Loebro sells entirely new axles, but they are expensive. I am not sure where they are made but Loebro was an Italian company. Below you will see Pelican's price. Shopping around may get you a lower price.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/1073504310.htm?pn=107-350-43-10-INT&ByPassCat=Y

You can ask questions about them here and see if you can find out where the ones for your W123 are made: https://utsllcws.com/gkn-lobro/

If you find they are a good product shop and find the best price you can get.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

To answer your question, yes, they are much easier provided the diff end is staying put.
Not sure where your GSP axle failed, but if you’re able to simply replace the (lack of a better term) non diff section, you’re in business. If you need to open the diff, splitting an annular axle into its parts is a bit easier to install due to space.

Shame you had issues… I’ve had a GSP installed for about 30k now, no issues.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

thanks for the info

No Autozone in Canada At the time I purchased the axles, there were no low cost axles available from local auto stores where I could pick up and return if need be. My GSP axles came from Rckotto. The one way freight cost more than an axle did. The axles do have a lifetime warranty, but that may not cover freight!

I know I have to pay the freight on the return ($50-$100?), but don't know if they will also charge me for freight when they send free replacements. I have asked. Depending on cost, I may have to write this off as a bad experience. 5100 miles is not much of a lifetime!

Low cost new Chinese replacements in Canada are now about C$83-$91 delivered. NAPA (Altrom) annular or Trakmotive homokinetic.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Pelican has no stock of those. Other vendors I checked who do sell GKN don't have axles for the W123 300D. Even if available, when currency exchange and freight are added they get way too expensive

I already have the diff opened up. I will try and remove the GSP axles today. Going by what Frank posted a couple of years ago, unbolting the flanges may make R&R of the annular easier than lifting diff and lowering hubs? Some instructions (likely for homokinetic) say calipers need to be removed? Others say shocks need to be loosened to lower the trailing arms? Would annular need those steps?

Torqueing the flange bolts when re-assembling not that easy without lift, but doable, I would think.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Failure of the axles is mainly wear in the inner cv joints. With wheels on ramps, I get about 1 bolt hole of movement on those inner flanges when rotating the drive shaft. Should be no movement. This results in an alarming clunk when putting into reverse. I now have the diff open. No sign of wear.

For warranty return, I will no doubt have to send them the whole axle. I will unbolt it first and hopefully that will reduce steps required.

If shipping is not excessive, I am prepared to install GSP warranty replacements. Otherwise likely another make of annular.

ADDED: Just heard from rck. They cover the shipping of the new axles. So looks like GSP again!

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Took the 6 axle bolts out of one side this morning. The easy side (no exhaust). It's a tight job! My hex bits are 1/2" drive and interfere with the boot. Large Allen key and helper tube got some of them out.

I haven't separated the flanges yet - I seem to recall there being a lot of grease and maybe parts that could fall out? Am I wrong? I will at least have a plastic bag at ready!

I might look at taking axle out in one piece on other side. I can see how brake line/caliper might be in the way but they come out easily. With diff fully raised, hopefully get enough axial play in axle to drive hub end out.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Continuing:
Finished removing one axle today. This by splitting the annular flange and removing outer and inner shafts separately. You do need a plastic bag to cover the end when doing this, because it is the CV joint and is covered with grease!

When installing, I think I will try and do them in one piece. Saves having to separate brand new axles then bolt back together and torque bolts properly in a tight space.

The idea that inner shaft could be left in didn't work for me. For warranty return, I have to send complete axle back. If I switched to different make there would likely be a fit-up issue. This might work for those who buy axles from local shop and the shop still carries same axles years later when the axles fail. Good luck with that

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I had totally forgotten about NAPA, and NAPA has decent warranties. When I worked as a mechanic for a school district NAPA was where they had their account and bought from. Other mechanic shops also use NAPA parts.

Best of luck.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I would have chosen NAPA if rck couldn't/wouldn't replace axles with economical shipping to Canada. However, seems I only have to pay about C$50 to return old axles, so if things work out, I will do that.

I do use NAPA at times. Pricing is all over map, but always check with them and Carquest who are both nearby.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

That is today's job.

First raised the diff as far as it will go.
Then lowered the trailing arm as far as it will go.
Removed circlip
Removed axle bolt and drove hub end out

Did not remove caliper, because I read where one guy said he got axles out without doing that. But I don't think that will work for me! Maybe disconnecting shocks or whatever limits the trailing arm might allow that.

Anyway, taking a break before removing caliper.

The axle stub at diff end has to come out 3 1/2" to clear. I have it out as far as it will go with axle compressed, but still no-go. With caliper out, it may be possible. I think I read that annular axles don't compress as much as original homokinetics?

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

The factory axles are much much higher quality than any aftermarket you can buy - The only aftermarket item that actually is worth some money is the GKN product but thats pricey.

Best option is to find a CV shop who have the stretch boots and have them reboot the old axles - to fill the outer axle cans, you need 4 little bags of CV grease.

I think rockford cv are still selling heavy duty cv boots for these cars, they are fantastic quality, flex nicely in icy conditions too. But the caveat is that you need to disassemble the axle to slide them on and then recrimp the can if you have homokinetic units. They also sell the annular boots - I think they are classified as something for a W124.

When reinstalling the annular axle to the flanges you need to apply an anearobic sealer to the outer side to seal the grease in or use a paper thin gasket. - If you use polyurea grease, then the grease matrix doesnt bleed and will hold its oil in, old lithium type will bleed the oil out and you will end up with a cake of soap inside and a dead CV joint.

Good luck.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)