Hi Everyone,

Just registered and this is my first post but after doing some research, it looks like this is the place to get advice on old MB diesels. My great-uncle passed away a few years ago and I'm gradually helping my great-aunt clean out their house after having been there for 40 years. During the oil crisis in the early seventies, he thought it might be wise to have a diesel so they bought a 1974 240D. He used it as a commuter car for a few years but from what she told me, it was never their primary vehicle and after a while became an occasional weekend driver for him, eventually being parked in the garage where it would stay for quite some time.

I was helping her with some things last weekend and asked if I could take a look at it. She was considering just asking someone to come haul it away and I've always had an interest in older cars. He was an engineer and meticulous with record keeping. I flipped through some books in the glove box and he has notes on every time he filled it up. There are only 49k miles on it but the last inspection sticker on the windshield is from 1993, which is when my great-aunt suspected was the last time it was driven.

Given the sentimental value, and all the love for W115s I've found online, I would be interested in making a hobby out of bringing some life back into this old 240D. I've watched countless ************** youtube videos that have been very helpful. However, I'm wondering if there is some sort of checklist for how to address an old diesel that has been sitting for almost as long as I've been alive. I watched a series that ************** put together but it seemed to end with draining the fuel tank. I know I'll need to replace all the fluids and most, if not all, the hoses but was hoping there might be a playbook from someone that has done this before.

If anyone can share some advice or point me to an existing thread, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks!

I would check the oil level, then put a battery in it and see if it will start. Diesel is not like gas, it will last a long time, particularly if the car was garaged and didn't see huge temp and humidity swings.
If it starts, then change the oil, and drive that old fuel out of the system.
Getting it to run is probably the easiest part, I bet you will have to put a lot of effort in the brakes to actually get it roadworthy.

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1985 300 TD 448K
1984 300 TD 278K

1983 240D euro 240k
1994 f-250 idi turbo 330K
1986 f-350 IDI
1987 F-350 IDI

1985 JD 1050 4wd
1965 IH 3660

Wow, that is quite a find! Can you post some pictures? What part of the country are you in? You might find some local forum members who would enjoy stopping by to give you some advice and help.

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85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale**
84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds
00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold)
15 Subaru Outback 43K
11 Subaru Outback 67K
98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now.
30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60

Thanks, it definitely seems like a worthwhile and rewarding venture. Unfortunately I don't have any pics right now, but I could probably get some in the next week or so. In the meantime, picture a brown 240D covered in 25 years of dust with four flat tires.

We're in Alexandria, VA, just outside DC. To address the earlier comment, it gets pretty humid in the summer but as far as temperature swings, it probably doesn't drop below 45-50F in the garage.

Wow, awesome car. Quite a find.

I’m in dc often, happy to help, it’s neat to get to see such an interesting car. And I need a reason to get hard times chili on King Street!

Fuel is going to be the issue. Fuel system could be anywhere from semi ok to gone… regardless there will need to be a lot of rubber parts replaced.

But to get the ending going, it will be wise to get some oil into it, both change the old oil out (if it drains, may need a pan drop), and get some on the top end, in the cylinders, etc. This will probably mean removing glow plugs and/or injectors, and helping the engine turn over by hand a lot before trying to fire it up. It probably also means priming with fresh fuel and firing it up with a little reservoir of fuel vs what’s in the tank.

If you’re serious, probably should start with getting the right oil, air, and fuel filters, as well as a belt for the water pump. Is there still coolant in there at a reasonable level? Was it green or another color?

I’ll try to clear out my pm inbox, otherwise I think the email function woukd work. I’m in dc almost weekly, sometimes driving a w123 or other diesel!

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

Give it a good wash job and accept the offer of the member to drop by. His opinion with so much prior knowledge of Mercedes diesels should be a help.

I would check to see if the engine is seized by attempting to turn the crankshaft. Not with the starter. Diesel engines do not seize as easily as gas engines. At least in my experience. Also do a search for rust. Your geographical location is not bad at least.

Forty nine thousand original miles is a real gift sometimes. There may be a service booklet in the dash verifying it. If so it is worth going slow and easy. Better if it is a standard transmission than an automatic one. Yet it is what it is.

Just my opinions though. You might have quite the car there.

I dealt with a gentleman many years ago that asked me to have a look at one. I advised him to leave it alone. He asked why? I told him it will cost more than buying a decent example and I found the cursed rust issue. In his example. We are in a rustbelt area though.

He spent ten thousand on it I heard. Probably twenty thousand in todays dollars. Familiarity with these cars just helps you to know where to look. Plus what you are looking for.

I am only adding this to reinforce the ideal of having someone with knowledge of these cars have a look. You could even ask him to post what is there on your threads. So any advice from members will be sound. You may have a real winner there. If so he will see the signs.

I never drove that body or chassis style in a diesel. Owned several in gas formats though. I liked the way they drove and handled.

Confirm that the engine isn't seized before attempting to start it by putting a 27mm socket and breaker bar on the front of the crankshaft. Turn the engine in direction of normal rotation not backwards. If it is seized do not try to break it free with the starter, things will likely break internally.

The '74 240D also has an oil bath reservoir on the injection pump, they are not pressure oiled. Confirm that the injection pump has oil in it before starting it. If it turns and their is oil in the pump, change the oil and filter and possibly even the oil in the injection pump.

Step carefully, a 49k mile car maybe a gem. Avoid doing damage by rushing to start the engine.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

I'm green with envy over this barn-find and I haven't even seen it. 49k miles is practically brand new for a 616 motor. If that car doesn't have rust, you probably have an incredible vehicle there.

Phil Forrest

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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
Tom Abrahamsson

Normal rotation is clock-wise as you are facing the engine.

You don't turn it counter-clock-wise, especially on an engine which has sat this long, because there is a good chance the timing chain tensioner has collapsed creating "slop" which could allow the timing chain sprockets to skip a tooth or two.

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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

The battery might need to be charged. KIDDING! But also true.
There’s some information i. the DIY and tech info. I believe ************** also has a how to guide specific to that challenge. The Diesel remaining in the tank, lines, and pumps has probably turned into coal tar but now. Most certainly in the tank but you can bypass that with a fuel can. Clean and purge everything including tank, lines, pumps*, and rebuild the injectors.
Start with the injection pump and injectors first as you will need to let them soak. The IP takes the longest. Be sure to plug or cap off every single port and thoroughly clean the outside of the IP first to keep the inside clean. Once you are absolutely certain it’s spotless fill a large clean container with clean alcohol, remove the D-valves(mark each one and don’t mix up the parts), and soak for days. I found ethyl or isopropyl alcohol works well to dissolve the tar. Use two long sections of hose and an electric fuel pump to build a close circuit for the lines and circulate the alcohol for several hours. You’ll have to snake wire down them with alcohol before this if they have a blockage obviously. suspend the fuel tank between two trees or posts allowing enough space to rock the tank side to side. Cap the drain, add a gallon of alcohol, a handful or two of drywall nails, cap filler, vents, tank level sender, and shake the shirt out of it until you see nothing shiny metal inside. Purge the vent, clean the filter, etc.

You may have to remove the governor’s cover plate after it’s had a good long soak in fact it’s probably best to do that during/before the soak as in my case(after 10 year park). Doing so will allow you to acces the slide rack which rotates the piston valves. If they are really gummed up all you can do is let it soak and keep working at it. It’s been said that you should never roate the pump shaft by hand and I’m near certain just about everyone will steer you away from opening up the governor and definitely avoid touching the rack. In my case it was a matter of move it or lose it. Nearly out of time I was desperate to free up the rack and used a large flathead as a pry bar to work it back and forth. Lucky? Probably but she fired right up and is still running 5 years later.

If this motor has the pneumatic governor, that diaphragm is almost certainly hard as dried rawhide and just as supple. It will need to be replaced before the motor really runs well (if it turns over and starts at all,) but it's well worth the trouble. That was the first thing on my W115 I replaced when I got it back in 2013 and it made an incredible difference in "performance."

Phil Forrest

__________________
1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
Tom Abrahamsson

I think the governors on all the 115’s and early 123’s are mechanical only. The only pneumatic connection should be the fuel cut off valve that actuates when you turn off the ignition. You may or may not need to replace it but you can start and stop the engine without it.

On the OM615 and some OM616, there is definitely a pneumatic governor. I've beaten my head against this IP enough times traveling across the continent and stopping in Liberal, Kansas to shim the dampener to control the fuel:air ratio due to the vacuum signal being lower and pulling less diaphragm. (I think I got that right, it's late.)
The Type M IP governor gets a vacuum signal from the intake plenum just on the engine side of the butterfly.

Here's a few threads:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/410426-parts-pneumatic-governor-om615-om616.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/202638-615-616-pneumatic-governor-adjustment-translation.html

When I found a NOS governor diaphragm, it was in Venezuela and I paid handsomely for it. At that time (2013) it was the only one I could find anywhere.

Phil Forrest

__________________
1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
Tom Abrahamsson

Thanks Phil! I often need an app that will warn me when I’m about to tell the world I know something. hehe