Started smelling fuel and noticing small spot on garage floor when parked. Recently changed main fuel filter and pre. Problem started after that. No leaks prior. Related or coincidence? Might have other leak areas but cant see anything due to the big honkin intake. Could also have a clear line, or two, leaking. Or the shutoff valve, or IP itself. Guess the intake is comin off, no matter what. The question I have is: Doesnt the fuel system need to be pressurized to find the leaks? Cant run the engine with the intake off, so....? Ordered the 33 spline socket and stoppin at the dealer today for seals and crush washers. Do I correctly recall reading the washers are hard to locate? Or, was that for the w cars? Guessin this pump is different from my w123, yes? Bought the E300 in October and it's just not givin me that "warm fuzzy feeling" like my 240D. Beginning to think I made a mistake...gettin to be a PITA

To me, if you take the time to learn fixing most of the problems are relatively easy. I spend way more time learning than actually doing the work. There are a lot of threads with posts that covers most of the issues & a lot of knowledgeable members that contribute.

Delivery valves are covered really well in numerous posts. One is:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/273752-delivery-valve-torque-specs.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/211801-om606-engine-w210-e300d-td-delivery-valve-seals.html

This one is an example of what can happen if you don't read and learn from other's experiences before you start doing projects that are new to you:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/253990-1990-300-w124-2-5-turbo-running-worse-after-attempted-tune-up-3.html

One thing I found this weekend is the search function of peachparts.com is not as good as doing a google search that starts with site: "peachparts.com" folowed by what you are searching for on peachparts.com. I found several threads that didn't show up with the search option on peachparts.com.

You CAN run the engine with the intake manifold off

__________________
Allen Kroliczek
Oak Grove Autosport | Oak Grove Autosport
01 G500, 82 300TD, quite a few more.....

Awesome! Thanks for that. Definitely appreciate it. I was hopin that was the case but feared fire and brimstone, from the Pelican Gods, if I even suggested such travesty....lol

TXgeezer...appreciate the links. The second one you posted, by "Parrot of Doom" was really well done (despite not thoroughly cleaning the surface around the delivery valves BEFORE disassembly). I must've gotten pretty lucky with my 240D. Bought a couple years ago and my first foray into the vintage MB diesel "scene". Paid $900 for it. No cream puff, spent it's life in the "rust belt". But, it's kind of a "survivor". Everything is original and it hasn't been molested. Yes, it's got some rust. But, not as bad as you'd think. Have done a bunch of repairs/maint, but all in all, she's been a trooper. Everything seems to be serviceable on that car. One of it's great features IMO.

Different animal, this E300, I know. Tryin to adapt. The W123 just seems so much more intuitive and basic, I guess. As you stated...."spend way more time learning than working". Seems like good advice.

So, is this a normal procedure and an often used technique? Seems a little "unorthodox" to me, but, I'm definitely a "newbie" when it comes to MB diesels (or any other diesels, for that matter).
What sort of things should one be aware of (besides sucking foreign objects into the intake ports) when doing this? I'd imagine there'll be OBD codes after?
I'm assuming this is the only way to pressurize the fuel system in order to check for leaks in everything that's quite well hidden by the intake manifold? I "think" my delivery valves are leaking, but I can't be sure of that due to not having access to clean them off and observe during operation. Could be a loose line/nut or one of the clear lines/o-rings or the shut-off valve, etc. Even the IP, itself, I'd imagine.
I was thinking, maybe, with only the crossover pipe removed, I may have a lot more access? Any thoughts? Thanks

Yeah, thanks. Appreciate the input Texasgeezer. I'm a PAgeezer. Have read a bunch about the 210 delivery valves from various posts and sites. Job seems simple enough. My point, although I labored intensely to avoid making it, was my w123 is almost 40 years old w/205K miles and has had no such issues. Everything works, even the ac. This E300 @140K miles is a completely different story. Ac leak, hose is NLA, can't find one anywhere (was $300 when available from MB). Transmission leaks at the electrical plug, causing ATF to wick up into the control module (great design, that). Already rectified. Transmission selector module is wonky and needs replaced ($100+)
Just blowin off a little steam is all. Guess I was imagining the E300 was gonna be a newer version of the 240D. You know what happens when we assume......

Found another thread with a post by Diesel911 about the delivery valve that provides really good information about the delivery pressure valve two piece mated parts ( cylinder and popup valve ). I added a few extra words, for my benefit, to reinforce the importance of maintaining their 'mated' relationship. For a smooth running engine all the injection components have to function properly.

A few things I think I've learned with past and recent research is:

1. Use viton o-rings for longevity
2. Keep the pressure valve two part mated assembly together and don't mix with others.
3. Always use a new o-ring and copper washer even after a short period of time.
4. Don't allow the injection pump element that sits below the delivery valve assembly to move out of position when you are working with the delivery valve.
5. If you do allow the element to move up a little don't use a metal tool to push it back down. Use something like a chopstick made from wood or plastic.
6. Clean, clean, and clean again. I lost a low mileage one ton Chevy due to a Chevrolet mechanic that replaced an extended warranty injection pump and didn't keep everything clean. I picked up the pickup and on the way home the engine started hammering like it was being beat by a sledgehammer. Dealer said an injector malfunctioned but wouldn't pay for that repair. I paid for a new injector but did not know enough to also request the glow plug be changed. About a month about 200 miles of driving that piston and rod assembly failed and knocked a hole in the block. So either the piston rod assembly or the glow plug tip was damaged during the 'hammering'.
7. Buy, rent, or borrow a non-clicking torque wrench to reduce chance of over torqueing the delivery valve and warping the aluminum housing of the injection pump or increasing the chance that the delivery valve holder will break then or later.
8. Make sure you replace the nylon clips that hold your injection lines if they are very old. They do break from age and vibration and allow the line to fatigue and crack.
9. Be careful when you remove the intake manifold. Debris including plastic pieces from the nylon clips can fall into the intake ports and enter the valve area. Best to clean that area by bushing, blowing, vacuuming to reduce chance of that happening.
10. Block off the exhaust gas and some cruddy oil from entering the intake manifold and gunking up your intake valve area. It really gets thick and pasty and probably interferes with engine performance.

I'll quit after the next comment, probably getting too wordy.

I tend to agree with a few members that say that 'lapping' the two piece pressure valve with a very high number polishing compound is probably a good idea on high mileage engines. After millions of cycles of fuel injection it's understandable that the mated pressure valve assembly has a wear pattern seal that is corrupted when the delivery valve is serviced. Probably impossible to put the spring back on top of the valve without moving it a tad. So if it doesn't seal like it did when it was new, performance is probably affected.

No need to worry about that, 'geezer. Like to read and a great way to learn!

Thanks for that post. Lots of good info there. Some of it you wouldn't think of after reading/watching a few others perform the service. Beginning to seem like this job is a little more challenging and critical than I originally thought.
I'm gonna have some time to do a little more research as I don't have the parts or the "tool", yet. Funny how things "work out".....

Just got back from my always friendly and helpful local Mercedes dealership. Unfortunately, ......the crush washers and seals, for the delivery valves on my E300D, are NLA. Hard to believe, I know. I'm sure a lot of you guys already knew this, but it's news to me. So, now the big question: Does anyone know of an alternate source for these 2 critical pieces? The parts guys, at the dealer, suggested checking with an IP rebuilding company/service. Makes sense.... Any ideas? Thanks

Forgot to include the link mentioned in my last post.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/368432-delivery-valve-o-ring-problem;-car-clacking-loud.html

Lots & lots of members give good advice. Diesel911 is one of the many. Search through his and other good guy's posts for info and then try to verify with a few others.

I make mistakes, but try to keep that to a minimum by lots of reading.

Thanks for the links and tips. Great tip about general internet searches to start the query with "peachparts.com". I've noticed, during the relatively short time I've been here, that "Diesel911" does have lots of great info. As you mentioned, one of MANY, to be sure.
I guess my hurtle now is to locate the washers and o-rings. Viton seems a little more elusive as most I've seen are the black nitrile. Not at all sure about the crush washers. Seems most of the "usual" sources have them for other IP's but not the E300's. Haven't looked too extensively, yet. I guess if one had the proper dimensions there would be many sources to choose from. I'm sure the info is here on Pelican, somewhere, and I know I've seen threads discussing how and where to find the parts. Just gotta do more digging....

For o-rings I'd use a local supplier that has Parker viton 75 o-rings. A lot of members have ordered from mcmaster but I feel a little more comfortable with Parker made ones.

In a few minutes I plan to post a new thread with info on the delivery valve part #'s and o-ring sizes. I've tried to verify they are correct but you should vet the info. More and more often I have an oldtimers moment and can't think of things I should know.

Wish they would create a 'sticky' thread or pages with the most commonly used part #'s.

The internet is your friend if you use it properly. Today I ( hopefully ) saved over $300 on parts by ordering from europe. Basically including shipping I paid for six what one would cost in the states. There are several dealer sites that discount about 25 %. I always look at pelicanparts.com and buy from them if their prices are close.

Basically I'll enter a simple search like " mercedes 0000743793 " and then click on the ones that appear to not be a questionable website. Prices vary dramatically even for reputable brands. Some sites offer a ' lifetime ' warranty on the parts they sell.

This is another informative post:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/392177-whats-purpose-copper-washer-delivery-valve.html

Appreciate all the effort and help! I agree with the "Parker" comment. They're an industry leader for sure.
Also agree about saving money by shopping around (even Europe). Good to not have to be in a hurry. Which I'm not. Unless, of course, my 240D goes tango uniform...

Might be a good idea to create an Excel type spreadsheet to list part numbers and associated cost and quantity plus lowest price source link.

It can get really costly for parts to make a car long term reliable enough for long trips.

You might want to consider getting a car with more of a collector value and put your money and time into that.

If my car gets totaled I would not recover much of the money spent for all the new parts I've purchased. Doubtful if I would get even $2000.

Another link detailing fixup info for a 97:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/388124-first-things-do-new-me-1997-e300d.html

I recently sold my 2016, low mileage, excellent condition Ram pickup to "Carvana". Unbelievably easy. Happens "just like on the commercial". Go online, they give you a price. That price is good for a few weeks, or so. Take it to their dealership, or they'll pick it up. They already had the check made out. Didn't even LOOK at my vehicle. The ONLY thing they did was take off my plate and hand it to me. They practically gave me what I paid for the truck (minus normal depreciation, of course). Used car market is completely INSANE right now!

What does this have to do with E300's and used Mercedes, you ask? Well, thought I'd "plug in" my 97 E300D, w/140k, on their website. Their offer was $300 (three hundred dollars). Basically, the car is worthless.....to them and in today's current market, anyway.