Hi, anyone know how to time the pump on a om636 . Its in a 53' 170ds. This car was taken apart, and the pump was removed. It has a mark near the coupling. Does it line up with a screw or something? No other marks on pump.

The engine was stuck, and my guess is somebody removed all the injection stuff to try and work on it. I put a long pipe/ ratchet combo above a jack stand on the crank nut. With some ATF & Acetone in the injector holes. It popped apart. Seems to have good compression.

Someone may respond. I wouldpost your question in the vintage section as well though.

Looks like everything said about om621/615/616 pneumatically governed applies here.
26 deg. BTDC(for engines with injection timer), compression stroke , drip tube method.

Make sure the IP lever is on operation position (IP rack pushed towards full delivery)...and the IP timer is not stuck somewhere in in-between position.

Page 34-
https://docplayer.org/20746195-Allgemeines-daimler-benz-aktiengesellschaft-abteilung-kundendienst-motoren-7000-stuttgart-untertuerkheim-postfach-202.html

-click on "download document" to get the pdf.

Also check out (Early Model Years vol.2) :
Mercedes-Benz Ponton Books / Manuals / Literature / References / Acknowledgements www.mbzponton.org

There should be a diesel engine manual in English in the .zip files

There used to be an English .pdf document on om636 that circulated freely for years but it seems now it is either for sale (good grief)...or hosted on unclickable sites (viruses etc.).

The thingie under MB part number 636 589 01 23 00 seems to be used to lock the IP camshaft but I think one can do without it (although I might be wrong).

Oh wow, so many manuals. I'm right now reading up on this. I'm sure it could be done without that holder. Well, I hope.

I have no useful advice, but this is interesting. I had not been aware of the OM636. I couldn’t help but think that people who complain about the performance of the 240D and the various 300D iterations with the 617 Don’t know how good they have it.

Not meaning to knock the 170DS, But that motor reported put out 43 hp and 74 foot pounds of torque, from a displacement of under 1.8 L. I saw a video of the 170DS and it looks pretty neat. The grill and headlights especially. But I suspect it was no speed racer.

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Te futueo et caballum tuum

1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Yeah, it reminds more of a small tractor engine. Just was tweaked enough for vehicle use. In fact it talks about that in one of the manuals. I'll get up some pictures. Mines just a hot mess right now. Those lights & fenders are massive!

Also in the stuff i've found , it claims ip timing is 30 ' BTDC on #1.

I bet it will drive just fine but probably stay off the interstate. I bet it will run 60 or 65.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I'm having some low end power issues with my 300D. I'm really slow off the line at times. It gets a bit annoying, embarrassing as well to have guys up on my bumper and then going around me. Oh well. I'm guessing the acceleration on this car is not neck snapping.

But like you say, being able to get from point A to point B at mostly 60 mph is worth a lot.

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Te futueo et caballum tuum

1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Maybe taking off in second....a common problem with that range of 300sd.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I have a manual and what is shows is on the drive end of the Fuel Injection Pump the front Bearing Retainer on the Pump has a single line at about 10 o-clock as you face the front of the Pump (and that is by one of the bearing retainer screws).
And Fuel injection Pump splined/grooved drive end has one flattened/missing spline that lines up with the single line on the front bearing retainer. In another picture instead of the flattened/missing spline there there is a small line on the front of the splined drive.

When you have the Crankshaft coming up on the compression stroke at the degrees previously mention (don't forget the gasket if it uses one) carefully stick the fuel injection pump back in so that the studs are in the middle of the kidney slots on the front fuel injection pump flange. And tighten it down.

If that is done correctly is sufficient to get it running OK but at some point in time you should drip time it because the drip timing will compensate for wear of the timing gear and or chains.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I am looking at the manual and the tool shown is to keep the fuel injection pump camshaft from moving when you tighten the front drive end nut. It does not say you need it for timing. If you did not remove the front fuel injection front splined hub then you don't need to tighten that front nut.

When I installed the drive hubs when I worked in a fuel Injection shop I griped the hub in a Vice with copper jaw shields or I carefully gripped them with a Channel Locks and gently used a torque wrench on the nut.

I am not going to recommend this but another method I use was I had a 3/8ths drive pneumatic impact wrench. I decreased the thread on the shaft and the threads in the nut and applied red Loctite on the shaft threads. Turned the nut in as far as I could by hand and I gave like 2 quick short applications of the pneumatic impact wrench. I have never had that cause issues but I guess it is not for the beginner.
Doing the above if for some reason it got under torqued the that fact that the Nut is tightened some and the Loctite keeps the nut from loosening. When the nut tightens applying more toque to it rotates the camshaft so it is hard to over tighten it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

So I'm working on it right now. It has no marks of any type on the front timing cover, or pulley. Just smooth..

Set the ip mark to the top left screw head center 10 o'clock

I noticed around tdc on the bellhousing there is a small hole in a window. Spun it around many times , only one hole can be seen. I think thats my mark? Either way I'm gonna try it. The book shows two spots on the flywheel. I'm bettin on just being able to see the right one..

Also I hooked all of the injectors up, out side of the engine. They all work, and spray perfectly. Not one drip! I'm certain they have ben apart before...

I'll grab the camera, and see what happens!

No luck so far. Hooked it all back up. Thought I had the metal loops and connectors for the glow plugs. Apparently not, tried wiring one up-and fried it(yes I know they are series, 9v).

Cranked on it enough, not one little sputter.

A few theory's:

Don't have some linkage to hook the pump to pedal/ throttle body. Also the vac line was unhooked. Tried playing with the ip lever--no change.

The ip timing 180' off.

Timing is close, but needs glow plugs to start on a 70F day.

Don't have injector heat shield washers, and some compression is slipping by(only just snugged them in there).

Or not enough compression to fire. Hard to tell, but it sounds like there is some when turning over.

I'll get a new set of pencil type plugs, and hook them to the resistor in place.

I think those individual series glow plugs are something like 1.5 volts apiece. Getting the series glow plugs working is probably far cheaper until you get it running.

The differance in voltage is dropped by the squiggly wires between as they are resistors as well. I am assuming the glow plug set up is very simular to the 115 models.

Hmm, that would explain why I fried one then... I'm missing the resistor wire stuff. Just gonna get the fast glow type. It needs new ones either way. Can't seem to find these state side. They look different than the updated type for the mid-late 70's MB engines. Same thread size though.

Anyone know if the later update pencil type will work? I've found a specific om636 style. They have a shorter glow tip. The 240d updated pencil type are the exact overall length, thread, diameter. They just have a longer exposed glow tip.