Catalytic Converter or Diesel Particulate Filter? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jay_bob · #16 04-12-2020, 12:19 PM

Pull the triangle resonance pod off (3 bolts, pull up) to get a lot better view of the back of the mixing chamber.

engatwork · #17 04-12-2020, 03:35 PM

Drop what MB calls the DPF where exhaust is opened up, reset code and take it around the block.

nyko46 · #18 04-13-2020, 08:30 PM

Today I found a couple of DPF cleaning shops around the Dallas area and decided to give them a call to check their prices and the method they use to clean DPFs.
Many of them does not work on passenger cars DPF specially the ones like Mercedes Benz that DPF is one whole piece. They say that trucks is much easier because they can get it disassembled and do the job without the need to cut it in two pieces. Other don't even take DPFs like Mercedes because they need to cut and then latter to weld it together. "Too much work" they say.
The price varies from $330.00 to 450.00 to get it cleaned.
The method used is: cut it in two (they call burner), remove the filter, weigh the filter, blow with high pressure air, bake the filter at certain temperature for 6-8 hours and then vacuum the residue, inspect and then re-assemble and test for airflow. One shop offered me to clean without cut it by shooting water and air only and asked my $250.00. To do this method I do myself.
All these shops are rated as 4.0 - 5.0 stars.
My next step will be figure out how much cost a new one and see if it is worth to spend this money plus removal and installation of the filter in a exhaust shop. Exhaust shop will charge around three hours labor to do the removal and installation. Now I need to find some store online to find a refurbished DPF to compare prices.
Any other idea?
Car still running strong and economic but the "engine light" bothers me.

ROLLGUY · #19 04-20-2020, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jay_bob

Pull the triangle resonance pod off (3 bolts, pull up) to get a lot better view of the back of the mixing chamber.

I did just that, and no sensor in the back of the mixing chamber. There has to be something else leaking boost.

nyko46 · #20 04-21-2020, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nyko46

Today I found a couple of DPF cleaning shops around the Dallas area and decided to give them a call to check their prices and the method they use to clean DPFs.
Many of them does not work on passenger cars DPF specially the ones like Mercedes Benz that DPF is one whole piece. They say that trucks is much easier because they can get it disassembled and do the job without the need to cut it in two pieces. Other don't even take DPFs like Mercedes because they need to cut and then latter to weld it together. "Too much work" they say.
The price varies from $330.00 to 450.00 to get it cleaned.
The method used is: cut it in two (they call burner), remove the filter, weigh the filter, blow with high pressure air, bake the filter at certain temperature for 6-8 hours and then vacuum the residue, inspect and then re-assemble and test for airflow. One shop offered me to clean without cut it by shooting water and air only and asked my $250.00. To do this method I do myself.
All these shops are rated as 4.0 - 5.0 stars.
My next step will be figure out how much cost a new one and see if it is worth to spend this money plus removal and installation of the filter in a exhaust shop. Exhaust shop will charge around three hours labor to do the removal and installation. Now I need to find some store online to find a refurbished DPF to compare prices.
Any other idea?
Car still running strong and economic but the "engine light" bothers me.

An online Mercedes parts store, has this piece for $2000.00.

ROLLGUY · #21 04-24-2020, 02:50 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob

Pull the triangle resonance pod off (3 bolts, pull up) to get a lot better view of the back of the mixing chamber.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I did just that, and no sensor in the back of the mixing chamber. There has to be something else leaking boost.

I had another look at this today. I removed the snap ring from the turbo actuator so I could manually give it boost while a friend revved up the engine. Sure enough, there was a huge boost leak around the boost hose connection to the mixing chamber. I removed the air intake hose to get a better look, and you guessed it- the temp sensor was behind dangling by the wire. I plugged it back in, and now the car drives like a greased cheetah chasing a bullet train (well not quite, but close). Evidently this engine is a little different than the E class, in that the sensor is not inside the mixing chamber and can be seen by removing the resonance pod. It seems that I did not have to replace the boost sensor, or clean the DPF after all. Thanks jay_bob for leading me in the right direction.....Rich