I purchased a topsides oil extractor because it just makes sense.

I own several diesels and change my oil about every 7,500 miles.

I was taught that you should warm the engine up whenever you drain the oil as it allows sludge and any other debris to flow out of the engine more readily.

I find with the topsides oil extractor that the larger hose collapses even when the oil is moderately warm. The collapsed hose makes it take a long time to extract the oil. I also take the oil filler cap off as to vent the crankcase while extracting.

Has anyone else experienced this and did you replace the original larger hose with a hose that has a thicker wall and won’t collapse?

Thanks fir any replies

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Currently Driving
2006 E320 CDI
1999 E300 Turbo Diesl
2002 ML500
1995 E320 Station Wagon


MBs I've owned
1997 E320 Assassinated by Pine Tree
1987 300E Wife Killed Engine
1981 300D Stretch Limo Total Loss
1970 250 Coupe 212,000 mi.
1974 450sel 184,000 mi.
1974 240D 377,000 mi.
1977 300D 204, 000 mi.
1979 280se God Only Knows!
1983 240D 130,000 mi.
1972 220D 280,000 mi.
1983 300SD 244,000 mi.

You definitely need a stout hose as you want the oil to be at operating temperature when you extract it. I am using polyethylene tubing with a fairly thick wall. I used one of the couplers that came with the kit to get down from 3/8 to 1/4 inch size. 3/8 connects to the port on the extraction pump but is too fat to go down the dipstick tube. 1/4 will fit. Be sure to cut the end of the tube on a 45 so that if it bottoms out in the pan it won’t get sealed off.

One other thing I did with my extractor was to take one of those Brother label makers and put big numbers next to the liter marks on the vessel. It is about impossible to see the stamped in numbers. This allows you to see at a glance if you have pulled all the oil.

Also keep an eye on it and don’t let it get close to the top. You do not want to do this ever or you will flood the pump.

My newest OM642 has a hard time with emptying completely for some reason. I have had to end up pulling the plug to get the last couple quarts/liters out.

I also labeled the switch over valve VAC and PRE so that I could remember which way is which.

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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

I use a Tempo Oilboy. Tempo is gone, but a similar extractor is Mityvac 7400. It uses lengths of hard nylon tube, coupled by short rubber connectors instead of a hose. You may be able to cobble up something similar. Home Depot carries nylon tubing.

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-Liter-Fluid-Evacuator/dp/B000JFJM14

If its similar to this type, the plastic bands are at 1 litre intervals.

I have always used these with engine cold as it can take a while for filter to drain down, large nylon tube at say 10c degrees take about 15 minutes, it has a shut-off valve should it start to overflow.

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David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

My Mityvac pneumatic extractor came with several stout/firm hoses.

The issue I have is that if you accidentally insert the hose too far on a hot (operating premature) engine, they can snag.

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1997 E300 Diesel - 222K miles

I've never had a problem with the Oilboy on a hot engine.There's nothing on which the tubes could snag.

I can't stop myself everytime I see one of these threads.

Don't insert a suction tube into the dipstick tube! Attach and seal your extractor main tube to the top of the dipstick tube.

I hear Topsider this still comes to mind -



Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
02 C320 wagon

Jay_bob , my om642 in my 2006 Jeep grand cherokee was similar.
Only done the one oil change so far but seemed to take ages to come out despite engine hot / oil cap and filter removed...engine had sat only 15 minutes before starting on it using my Sealey 6 litre capacity extraction pump.

Oil refill is a bit of a pain as its advised to put at least 4 litres of oil down the oil filter housing and this takes around 20 minutes.

Interesting. The dipstick tube doesn't go to the bottom of the pan, so what would you expect this to do?

+1

My neighbor did have an issue with a smaller engine car when hot, it was difficult to feel the bottom of pan due to rounded/sloped front - the tube went down then formed a U shape coming back up, he couldn't understand why only half the oil came out.

The cold method works a bit slower but doe a good job, couple of times removed the oil pan bolt with no further draining.

The tricky one is draining ATF as that does go around some sharp bends.

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David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

I'm probably 70+ oil extractions in on 617.952 engines using this...
...and sliding the plastic tubing into the dipstick tube and have never encountered a problem. Either I'm overdue for a fiasco or this advice is nonsense at least as far as the 617.952 engine is concerned. After a combined 450,000 miles or so, I'll comfortably and confidently continue on the existing course.

In re: "The dipstick tube doesn't go to the bottom of the pan, so what would you expect this to do?"

On the 617.952, the bottom of the dipstick tube is so close to the top of the oil pan that it is quite unlikely that one would be able to successfully wedge the plastic tubing between the two. Could it be done? I suppose. Can people abuse alcohol and/or narcotics and then drive? I suppose. Besides, if one did succeed at wedging the plastic tubing in place, one could simply remove the oil pan.

This all sounds like an anticipated crisis at least as far as the 617.952 engine is concerned.

That’s how the dealer does it. Dipstick tube is the suction tube.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
02 C320 wagon

Is there a difference if I use the sealed dipstick tube only rather than the extractor tube inserted down the dipstick tube? I've been using a Jabsco 12v vacuum pump system for years with the latter method, no known issues.

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Hanno
'79 6.9 Sold (after 27 years)
'83 280SL, 5 spd.
'94 E320 Sdn. 5 spd conversion
'02 E320 Sdn.(on loan to mom!)
'87 300E (5 spd. conversion) Sold
'05 E500 Wagon

Maybe this will help you stop yourself. Not all Mercedes dip stick tubes go to the pan! On my '97 E300D I have to carefully feel for the pan with the small tube, because if I push it in too far it will curl up in the pan and suck air. If you suck from the top of the tube, you should remove the drain plug once, to be sure you have drained the sump, and don't forget to loosen the oil filter so that that oil can fall into the pan so it can be sucked out.

I use the Topsider and still have the soft tube. Yes, it does nearly collapse but it still has two channels that pass warm oil. I set it on the ground and use the small tube to feel for the pan. I use the degree of tube collapse to tell me if I should pump up some more vacuum. It takes about 15 minutes. I change the filter while it is sucking. It loudly announces it is finished, and I make sure I have got it all. I like the Topsider because it holds more than my car, and it has caps that allow you to take the container to the recycling place, and it was cheap. You need to park so the tube is at the low side of the pan. In my case it is at the front of the engine.

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'97 E 300 D