Okay, contacted the site that sells the nitrogen bottles, they said it's more than adequate for automotive use since it's designed for small home systems. I also just got a welding regulator that will work with it for free. So will be ordering that to pressure test it and look for leaks with the Mega Bubbles (and probably watching the gauges for pressure drops).

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'85 300D - federal spec, built in late 84. 85 300D Complete AC System Rebuild

AC crimper was ~$120 (lightly used) on ebay, and when done will sell ~$120. Master Cool (forgot, whatever you commonly see). But, once you have a hammer, ... I have done many AC hoses, plus M-B oil cooler hoses, etc. True there are special dies for "reduced barrier" hose (expensive), but I found standard dies work for some reduced sizes. Indeed, the -6 die is marked also for -8 reduced (recall). I know I used -10 std ferrules on -12 reduced hose.

For sure Oeticker clamps will work, just lookup their pressure rating. I used them (2 to be safe) for an on-car repair where there wasn't room for the crimper. As I mentioned, even screw hose clamps work, and there are special ones for AC.

Why buy an over-priced condenser from Klima, when a generic one will work. Just check ebay for many after-market alum parallel flow ones for ~$50. They give dimensions. Could also use a factory for another car. I put one for a ~2000 Civic in my 64 Valiant ($25 new on ebay from liquidator). Biggest issue is new cars mostly use wide, short condensors, whereas a W123 needs a more square one. Best to get one w/ O-ring fittings (-6 & -8). The Civic one had "peanut fittings" which proved hard to find (not very standard).

Many here over-worry. AC pressures are only ~250 psig. Smart to install a PRV to insure that ($8 ebay) so you don't burn up your clutch. A garden hose is ~60 psig and you can block that with your thumb, so AC plumbing isn't challenging like say power steering (~1000 psig).

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

I bought a kit because it came with all the mounting hardware, adapters, and in a size that should work. That saves me a ton of time trying to figure out exactly what parts I need.

From a lot of research I did, using band type clamps with barrier hose can cause problems either not sealing properly or cutting the barrier layer of the hose. At this point I am sticking with the OE hoses where they are in reasonable shape. If I decide to replace hoses at a later date I can have the hoses that use custom fittings rebuilt and order cables made to length. Or i will buy the proper crimpers and do it myself. The cost difference is pretty minimal between the two options, I think

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'85 300D - federal spec, built in late 84. 85 300D Complete AC System Rebuild

Can you post a link of the nitrogen bottles?

You may want to get one of these Yellow Jacket 18975 1 4" Ball Valve 4 in 1 Vacuum Charge Valve Core Tool w SP | eBay for pressure testing and evacuating. The side port allows you to hook up a pressure gauge or micron gauge, shut the ball valve and observe the pressure or vacuum (hopefully no drop).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXZONdAGnt4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ES0NFPH4eJg

This one is made in China, good price compared to Yellow Jacket one. No idea of quality (currently out of stock) Cliplight 301 New Dual Schrader Valve Core Remover Tool | eBay

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I will look at your suggestions in a bit. Here is the tank i ordered.
Small Nitrogen Tank
Here is the regulator they suggested
small compact pressure regulator for nitrogen with range from 0 to 160 PSI. Ideal for purging or flushing
Since I already have a welding regulator that i got for free, I am going to try to adapt it's fittings to work with that tank and the lines from my r134 manifold set. Or i may order that regulator today if i cant find the right fittings.

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'85 300D - federal spec, built in late 84. 85 300D Complete AC System Rebuild

I talked to the seller again. At this point a little extra money spent is worth it for me get the AC finished sooner rather than later, so I decided to order their regulator to be sure I can get going once I receive the parts. They said I might need Adapter, R134a R12 (7/16 F AEROSOL) x (1/4 SAE M) to hook their regulator up to my manifold, so I'm going to order the manifold, tank, and that fitting just to be safe. I'll post a guide when I'm done and let you guys know how well it worked. If this works, it's a very economical way to purge & pressure test the system.

Does anyone know what to use to insulate the suction line's metal section as it crosses the front of the engine? Just regular pipe insulation I'd assume?

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'85 300D - federal spec, built in late 84. 85 300D Complete AC System Rebuild

There are probably no standard adapters that can bought to adapt a welding regulator (approx 1" dia.) to the 1/4" SAE male on the Nitrogen tank. You are dealing with 1600 psi so be very careful- no hose clamps! To be safe, I think you should just buy their regulator. You'd still need a ball valve to isolate the system being tested to the Nitrogen tank.

Something like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yellow-Jacket-93833-Ball-Valve-1-4-Sae-Male-Fl-X-1-4-Fpt-/201621369136?hash=item2ef191f130:g:aoAAAOSwyQtVwnKP

Edit: Looks like they have this which is a lot cheaper and do the same thing. http://www.refrigerantguys.com/hvac-minisplit-adapter-p/311018.htm

The hose ends on your R134a manifold gauge set should be 1/4" SAE female flare which should not require any adapters to their regulator.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Didn't see this I was posting at the same time. You shouldn't need any adapters. See #22. I have to say the prices on their adapters are very cheap and some of them may be hard to find.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

My plan was to hook up the regulator at ~150 psi to the manifold yellow hose, then run through the manifolds gauges to either the low or high side (really shouldn't matter) to pressurize the system. My manifold set has valves between the gauges and the yellow fill line, so I can shut those valves, keep the manifold installed, and measure the pressure in the system without the nitrogen tank being factored in. That's how I've been using my vacuum pump to test.

In other news, the last time I vacuum tested the system after snugging some connections on the car, I apparently left the valves on the manifold open - so the vacuum pump was still connected to the circuit, and it leaked vacuum. I hooked it up again last night and shut the correct valves and the system held a vacuum overnight. So at least that's a good start. Still will be replacing the condenser, the bad hose, drier, etc, and pressure testing it with nitrogen when I get my order.

Yes, I know leaking vacuum is a technically incorrect phrase, like saying that something gained cold, but you get the idea.

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'85 300D - federal spec, built in late 84. 85 300D Complete AC System Rebuild

Call them and ask if this will work Insulated Tape for Hvac Applications, Self Adhesive Foam Tape

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked