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#91
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The mechanical action of a high pressure sprayer at close range is the most effective at removing the big hunks. Then any of the chemicals suggested above plus mechanical action of a stiff nylon parts brush will get the rest.
Might also consider doing a little detail and paint. Here's a link to how I cleaned up my engine - http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/322334-engine-cleanup.html and some pictures Unfortunately it doesn't look like that any longer, but the better part of 100k miles takes its toll.
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#92
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Decided to clean stuff instead of pull the engine. Trans and transfer case painted. I should have smoothed the metal a bit but what ever nobody'll look close, I'll do better on the engine.
Oil cooler came off easy and none of the bolts on the car are to rusty either. I'm surprised, every bolt on my Ranger needs to be replaced. Mercedes must have used better steel. |
#93
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Got the engine mostly disconnected but I've got more things that I don't know what they do. First pic is left back of engine, vacuum line but for what? Second is on the right back, what is that white box? Third is on the right side to. Fith is a plug by the fuses. 6, power to flow plugs? 7, redish vacuum line ( maybe it's not that's what I'm guessing) above white thing in second pic, 8 plugs on right side, do I need them?
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#94
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More pics
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#95
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Quote:
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#96
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Great thanks.
How do you undo the motor mounts? |
#97
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You may not have to. There's a good chance you can just lift and they'll tear free.
The proper way is to use a long hex wrench (10mm I think) and come up from the bottom. Sometimes the bolt is stuck (dissimilar metal oxidation) and it's easier to just remove the engine support arms. It may even be possible to unbolt the mounts from the frame I can't remember if you can reach all the mounting bolts...they might be blocked.
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#98
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I was able to pull all of the mount-to-frame bolts on one that I did (it was either the 300SD or the 240D) and was pretty easy with a Allen socket and a universal joint. With all the Allens, dig out the socket with a tint screwdriver first so the socket will fit all the way down.
Dan |
#99
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Got the engine and trans out. I had a really hard time getting the trans to come off but got it in the end. I broke a sensor on the intake manifold (in pic) when I lifted the engine out. Should I replace it with the one off my spare engine or not wory about it? What's the best way to plug up the intake and exhaust ports on the engine so I can power wash it? Also where can I get new o rings for the turbo return oil line and the breather tube? I wouldn't be surprised if they're a big contributed to the engine being so oily. The part of the turbo oil return tube. Onectes to the bottom of the engine is kind of loose, how can I fix that?
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#100
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that sensor is for 'overboost protection' and unless you keep the cut off solenoid in line with the enrichment tube from the back of the intake mani, its not gunna do anything.
also, unless you are doing some upgrading on this engine - fuggeddaboutit. not a real issue. |
#101
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I use Purple power to degrease all that gunk. I buy it in 5 gal. pails and put it in a 2 gal. bug sprayer. If the gunk is real thick it might take two tries to get it all off with the power washer. But once done will look like new. This motor started out looking like yours.
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#102
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Otherwise use duct tape. A spray paint can cap fits over the intake if I recall correctly. You might be able to find a plastic glass that fits the openings as well. Here's a solution to the stock turbo drain design that makes replacement easy and leaks a thing of the past. The solution uses a custom AN-10 fitting that installs in the upper oil pan, shown in the center of the above image. The fitting on the turbo is replaced with a standard -10 fitting readily available on eBay or your local speed shop. A standard -10 steel braided hose is made up to connect the two. If anyone has ever replaced the stock grommets they'll appreciate the ability to replace the drain tube with just a simple wrench and make up a new hose by reusing the AN hose ends. I now have a lathe and can make oil pan fittings if desired.
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Last edited by mach4; 07-18-2016 at 02:47 PM. |
#103
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I can only upload one image from my iPad, so here's the custom fitting shown as installed in the upper oil pan.
The fitting is installed with JBWeld for a permanent install or with silicone, RTV, polyurethane or another oil resistant sealant for a semi-permanent install.
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#104
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Getting there
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#105
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Decided to paint it. Ran out of paint but I won't be able to work on. It again until next weekend. Made the turbo bright green and intake blue. What's the purpose of connector between the manifolds? All it seems to do is put soot in the intake
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