When I had the hoses made I took the stock MB hoses with me. The hydraulic shop found the correct size ends and crimped the fittings to the extended hoses for me. That way I was able to keep on the MB stuff the same and if a replacement was needed down the road I could pull any stock component. The hose was just standard hydraulic hose rated way beyond anything the engine could ever produce. All said and done I think it was less than $50 for both of them.

Yes, that looks to be the correct way to route the heater. No idea on the bolt size as I don't have the jeep at my place currently.

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'85 300D ~ 381k, HD Bilstien shocks, 27.50x8.50x14R General Grabber AT2 tires, 4 E-Code headlight upgrade with 90/130w bulbs, boost turned up, new timing chain, and injectors. SOLD

'85 CJ7 ~ OM617 swap, Tarus electric fan, T5 trans, Dana 300, 4.88 R&P, Mile Marker locking hubs, ALDA removed, AMC 20 rear disk brake conversion, Aussie locked with 33's and 5" Rough Country lift.

Yes, seperate the stock MB line after the fitting with the nipple on it. Then make something to run intermediate from the end of the fitting to the stock Ranger vacuum booster. Use the nipple that remains on the MB side to use as a source to kill the engine.

The second picture looks like it, but hard to tell without seeing where it connects to the IP. Does the engine run yet? If so, suck on the hose and see what happens, engine should bog down/shut down without much effort.

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'85 300D ~ 381k, HD Bilstien shocks, 27.50x8.50x14R General Grabber AT2 tires, 4 E-Code headlight upgrade with 90/130w bulbs, boost turned up, new timing chain, and injectors. SOLD

'85 CJ7 ~ OM617 swap, Tarus electric fan, T5 trans, Dana 300, 4.88 R&P, Mile Marker locking hubs, ALDA removed, AMC 20 rear disk brake conversion, Aussie locked with 33's and 5" Rough Country lift.

That's what I will be doing once the parts arrive. I originally didn't want to do that for fear of not being able to get all the metal chips back out of the oil cooler but I guess I'll try.

$50 for two hydraulic lines?! That's a good deal! Parts alone costs more then that. The shop I went to didn't have fittings that would fit on the oil cooler so they would have had to weld on regular 1/2" hydraulic fittings onto the hard lines which would have cost me as much as it will to make nice shiny lines as described in the above link.
Got it thanks

Still waiting on the last adapter pieces so in working on gauges. I think I got the main electrical working again in my truck and now I've got to wire the backlighting of the gauges in and try and figure out how to install the sensor for the tach. I've got the dash all torn apart but I'm not sure how to connect to the tach.

Hooked up the throttle cable but I want a stiffer return spring on it. I also got some mandrel 3" exhaust because why not.

I can't find the turbo oil down tube. Any idea where to buy one? I remember one of you had a much better set up for it with threaded fittings but I can't find that post.

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I can't notch the oil pan because the oil pump is in the exact spot it needs to be notched. Nothing will hit unless i really hit a bump hard so I'll just lift the truck later.

I made a new oil return line for the turbo out of the extra -10 braided hose I got for the oil cooler.

Got the new flywheel adapter bolted on, installed the flywheel and clutch, and then found a problem. The starter was partially engaged! Checked the thickness of the spacer and found it was way to thick! It's only supposed to be .500 and it's .641. Yarde cut it from scrap and so they sent two plates for the price of one and so I think what happened is that they just cut a scrap that a 1/2" plate could be mild from instead of actually cutting it from 1/2" stock. Not really that big a deal but it's annoying because I wanted the engine in my truck while I'm gone for the next couple weeks

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What spacer is too thick? Flywheel or bell housing spacer? Use some flat washers to move the starter to the front of engine then cut a starter spacer from the same thickness metal.

There's a belhousing adapterr, a flywheel adapter, and a spacer plate behind the belhousing adapter to take up the extra distance the flywheel is away from the engine when the flywheel adapter is installed. It has to be .500 or the clutch slave cylinder will not have as much travel and all the mounts I made will be in the wrong spot.

There was a chipped spline on the transmission input shaft which gave me some trouble installing the clutch but I got it fixed. Engine and trans are now mounted in the truck. How do I hook the starter up? Whys there 3 wires?

Congrats on the milestone, always feels great when you have the engine and trans mounted up.

I would just mimic the rangers starter. It should be power, ground and one for the solenoid, off the top of my head. You just need to figure out what gets momentary power when the ignition is hit and go from there.

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'85 300D ~ 381k, HD Bilstien shocks, 27.50x8.50x14R General Grabber AT2 tires, 4 E-Code headlight upgrade with 90/130w bulbs, boost turned up, new timing chain, and injectors. SOLD

'85 CJ7 ~ OM617 swap, Tarus electric fan, T5 trans, Dana 300, 4.88 R&P, Mile Marker locking hubs, ALDA removed, AMC 20 rear disk brake conversion, Aussie locked with 33's and 5" Rough Country lift.

Before doing anything, make sure the trans is in neutral and parking brake set. Even better to elevate all drive wheels in case the engine cranks unexpectedly. Before starting the engine, be sure to have a secondary way to stop then engine in case it runs away. ( stock STOP lever that works / board you can place over the air intake , fuel you can shut off. ) Engine run away is usually caused by a fuel rack that is stuck due to gum and such.

Early Rangers use a RF fender mounted starter solenoid and a starter that does not have solenoid trigger wire. ( RE: Put power to an early Ford starter and it will engage and spin )

The wiring from the fender solenoid to the ignition switch isn't strong enough to operate the MB starter you have so it can't be used directly.

To make this work:

From the positive battery terminal, run a large cable to one of the large threaded fender mounted solenoid terminals. You will also place all of the Ranger power feeds to this terminal as well ( Both of these would be the stock Ranger setup )

Make sure the small push on wire is installed on the fender mounted solenoid. ( stock Ranger setup )

From this same fender mounted solenoid terminal, run a large cable to the large threaded terminal on the starter that isn't attached to anything else. ( You can use the Ranger cable but you will need to drill out / replace the lug on the starter end. Also, the fender solenoid end of this cable used to be on the other fender solenoid terminal. )

From the empty large threaded fender solenoid terminal, run a 10 gauge or larger ( 8 would be good. ) to the small starter mounted solenoid terminal. There might be 2 small terminals if the solenoid is set up for a gas engine. Generally, the one you want has a screw / bolt / nut, the one you don't want generally is a push on spade.

How it works:

The above setup is the same as a later model Ranger with a starter mounted solenoid.

Battery power is available at the body feed and MB starter solenoid.

When you turn the ignition switch to crank, the small wire triggers the fender starter solenoid and then it feeds power to the MB starter trigger wire. When you trigger the MB starter solenoid, it slowly rotates the starter motor and engages the drive.< Critical, see note Once the drive is engaged, the MB solenoid applies full power to the starter motor and then engine cranks.

< Note. In the initial stages of cranking, the trigger wire on a starter mounted solenoid powers up the pull in windings and rotates the drive gear to assist engagement. This takes lots of power and will burn down a small or worn out ignition switch. It can also lead to a no crank situation especially when hot.

The system hookup I've outlined above keeps this high electrical load off the ignition switch.

It is the same setup as a hot start kit sometimes found on air cooled VW engines and other brands.

I'm using the stock MB starter so do I hook the large wire and the medium sized wire (that connects to the same place on the starter) to the battery side of the ford starter solenoid? Then attach the smallest of the three wires to the output side of the starter solenoid?

My description above lists what needs to go where.

Take a pic of the Ford fender mounted starter solenoid showing the wires and I'll let yuo know what to move.

Where does the medium wire on the MB starter go to?

I figured it out. The big starter wire is always hot and connects directly to the battery or battery side of the ford starter solenoid. Medium wire (which attaches to the same place on the starter) I believe was for powering the electrical system on the car as it is also always hot. The smallest wire is the trigger wire and connects to the other terminal on the starter solenoid. I got it to turn over which was a huge relief because I was worried some water could have gotten in the engine and rusted the rings. Pulled everything back out (hopefully for the last time) to reinstall the bolt that engages the spring on the starter and install the tach sensor that came with my Dakota Digital kit (any tips on setting it up would be much appreciated). Hopefully will have a break from homework this weekend to finish off those couple things and start resembling the truck!

How should I attach the fuel lines? I lost all my pictures of how they attach to the engine

Pretty sure there are pics in my build thread. If not get back to me and I'll take some new ones.

Dan