That's your 3/2 valve - here's what's under the cover...

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

What's it do

Assuming you've got your EGR disconnected....nothing.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

What does it do? It's easy to hook the EGR back up, do I need to do anything else to make it work?
I got back to working on my truck today and actually made myself a list of what to do. There's a lot. I am definitely not finishing this by labor day weekend.

Got the window closed but no power to the radio still. I cut out most of the wiring for the engine and removed the ECU but i still have an error light on the dash that says emiss. I still cant get the stupid key out of the ignition either.

Can I use the fuel lines that are already in my truck, including this filter:
or do I have to replace it all and use that weird section of fuel line with the bulge in it that hooks to the engine?

Anyone know the thread pitch/diameter of the flywheel bolts and the bolts that holds the turbine of the turbo on (I dropped one and can't find it)?

So to mount the Ranger flywheel on the Mercedes I need to drill the new bolt pattern but the problem is the back tapers in to a ~2" flat spot for it to mount. The new bolt circle is larger then this so it will probably make it hard to make the flywheel sit flat. My machinist friend's thought was to mill a step on the back of the flywheel and then turn a tapered ring to go on it so that the back of the flywheel would be larger. I'd then get it welded and return it to him to machine it to it's final size before getting it re balanced. I'm a little worried about warping the flywheel. Would making a cone for the back of the flywheel be good enough if i got that balanced with the flywheel?

My friend remeasured the Mercedes bolt pattern for me today and the piece of plastic I bought to make the prototype adapter with came in. He's headed back to school in Florida so he's taking all the stuff and should be able to get all the machining done before classes start back up.

Randomly cutting wires is a bad idea. You will need a fair amount of those wires to crank / charge the battery / have gauges / distribute power to the cab.

That is the fuel debubbler I was speaking of in post 54, good idea to keep it since the tank does not have a sump to contain fuel slosh. The fuel filter should be a steel can with 2 lines mounted after the frame mounted fuel pump. Even better is to use the 1990 ish plastic tank I outlined in my post 52.




Don't weld the flywheel as there is too much a risk of it coming apart and if cast iron it is very difficult to weld. You need a flywheel from a 2.3 / 2.5 OHC "LIMA" 4 cylinder that was used in Rangers. It has a larger pattern. The late 90's and up 4 cyl is different and I'm not sure it will work.

They were all for the engine. I checked everything I wanted was still working while I did it

Ok I'll keep it. I found the filter thanks


I thought it was a sketchy idea, glad you backed that up. So a tapered ring on the back of the flywheel isn't a good idea? The bearing that supports the transmission shaft so it'd be alot easier to just use the one I have. It's also only .02 smaller then the Mercedes flywheel and has the same pitch starter ring.

I made the emiss (emission) light go away by pulling the little controller thing out of the glove box. I also got the whole AC system out without disconnecting any lines so now I can bring it to a shop and get it drained. The little blower fan is gummed up but i'll leave that for later. I'm thinking of putting the oil cooler where the AC condenser was and running the lines forward and down so I can clear the radiator. I picked up a starter solenoid from the junkyard and I'll work on wiring the glow plug circuit.

Oh and good news, that mechanical pneumatic switch works under vacuum so I'll be ordering that. Where's the vacuum line go on the injection pump?

Took the AC out of my truck and put the oil cooler in the place of the condenser. Started making the mounts for the flat bed but I didn't buy enough angle iron. The plastic adapter and cone for the flywheel should be done in a couple weeks.

I found why the key was stuck in the ignition and the only way to remove it is to take out the lock cylinder and turn the key back far enough that it comes out. The mechanism that the shaft of the lock cylinder goes into is what's preventing it from turning back far enough. What do i do?

There is a white button on the left lower side of the steering column, this needs pressed / held to get the key to turn from the off to column lock position. This is found only on manual trans trucks, With an auto trans the shifter must be placed in park first.

Seriously that's all it is? Urg I spent for ever trying to get it out. Thanks

There's a sensor (?) on the plate that the transmission bolts to, is it for the tach? If so how's it read the flywheel? I don't see anything on it.

It's a VR (variable reluctor) sensor that reads the flywheel teeth. The signal is routed through the EGR controller, but it's possible to bypass that if desired.

__________________
Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Would there be any way to make it work with the tach in my truck?

Given enough time and money anything is possible....

The best option I can think of is to swap in the tach module from the MB into your truck gauge cluster.

I did a similar thing with my diesel swap into a 380SL. I swapped in the tach module of the diesel to the SLs cluster. Obviously the calibration of the gauge face was way off, so I glued the diesel gauge face over the top of the gassers face. It was a bolt in proposition as I was going from MB to MB....on yours it will take some innovative engineering and creative fabrication.

Give it a shot, you might get lucky.

__________________
Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

I went with a photo tach and that works great. Mine is an expensive Monarch brand but the guys say there are cheaper ones on line with a bit of searching (I like my Monarch as I used them in dyno testing). All you do is put a piece of reflective tape on the dampner or anything else that rotates at crank speed (NOT belt driven!) and hook everything up according to direction. Problem solved and it'll fit anything you'll ever own in the future.

Dan

Having a working tach is a low priority at this time. I'm real concerned that the adapter will be a stalling point for this project.

Have you measured the trans input shaft / clutch distances to be sure your adapter will space the trans properly?

Using a cone on the back of the flywheel is an iffy mod. I'd expect it to move around over time. Starting out with a 2.3 / 2.5 Ford FW would be a better possibility.

There is even a chance the stock MB manual trans FW could be modified to take the Ford clutch.

If an off the shelf adapter package exists, buy it.