Hi.

I got a 1982 300sd with absolutely no vacuum lines.

I'm trying to figure out how to just get proper vacuum to the transmission, brake booster, and shutoff valve for the time being.

Forgive my ignorance as I have not worked on very many diesels. That's what fourms are for though, right? I'm here to learn.

Right now, I have a vacuum hose connected from the vacuum pump to the brake booster. In the middle of that hose, I have a T that I have connected to the VCV.

How and where do I hook up the line that goes to the transmission? Is there some sort of switchover valve that I have or should be using in this setup? As I understand, the connection on the bottom/side of the VCV is a vent. I don't understand how there's only one place for vacuum, and it's supposed to somehow be the input for vaccum AND the output for a seperate vacuum circuit to the transmission. What don't I understand?

Also - the shutoff valve. It works when I hook up my hand vac up to it, and shuts down the engine. However, my car will not start if it is hooked up. I have another T that goes to a connector on the firewall, that has a two wire plug, I assume for 12v voltage. The other vacuum hose on the connector goes to my shutoff valve.

I used my multimeter and I am getting only about 2 volts at those two wires when the key is on... should I be getting 12v?

Thanks, all.

Someplace in the Repair Links there is links to sites with Vacuum Diagrams.
Fast navigation http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/146034-fast-navigation-do-yourself-links.html

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Or just do a Google search for your model and "vacuum diagram." All sorts of stuff comes up.

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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 157k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 175k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 144k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 70k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

Just so you know, your transmission will shift without vac. The upshifts will be perfect because the SD uses zero vac for upshift; however, the downshifts will clunk. SD uses vac for downshift only.

Here are a few links that should help:

Mercedes-Benz 126 Service Manual Library
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/program/Engine/617/14-050.pdf

The EGR diagram will have most of the engine area connections for vacuum (pg 7). Much of the EGR specific items can be bypassed "for testing".

More than likely, there is a line that directly connects the orifice (63) with the main orifice (62). Ensure that it is connected to the correct leg of the T-connection (62) and that orifice (63) is installed or there will be transmission shifting problems. Off the top of the VCV, you should have a 3-way connection to orifice (63) and the transmission. Off the bottom of the VCV, the connection (b) may go to the cabin vent line, eliminating the 3-way. The VCV causes a controlled variable vacuum between idle (high vac) and max acceleration (low vac).

Depending on your location, you may want to leave some of the EGR connections in order to pass inspections. Many do not have strict exhaust opacity tests but they do have regulations about removing emissions equipment. Since there is no testing, they do not know whether it is operational.

For the shut off valve, the connection should go inside the cabin to the ignition switch.

The switch on the firewall is for overboost protection. The lines for this should connect the the rear banjo-bolt on the rear of the intake manifold and to the alda compensator on the injection pump. Electrically, it connects to the boost pressure switch on the side of the intake manifold.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )