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#1
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Quote:
yes, a shame to do more than one thing at a time and end up not knowing what was actually the cause of the no start condition....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#2
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I can't offer too much advise, but I can share a personal anecdote that may be relevant.
Quiet awhile ago I moved to Northern Utah from Sunny Southern California, with my old Ford pick-up truck, with the 300 six. I was usually good about changing oil, but not at that time in my life. I began driving over the road again, and my truck sat for a couple or three months with some real old 20W-50 oil in the crankcase. In fact, for a good part of the winter. And another fact, I couldn't remember when I had changed it last When I went home to start it, it barely turn over, even after getting a jump from the Peter Creeper, it just turned too slow. I didn't know that multi-viscosity oils can break down with time and lose their W. My oil lost it's 20W. I changed the oil, and it turned right over and started, with a jump. That's my story and it gave me some experience about relying on old oil. Now I'm a phobic oil changer
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1977 300D - 255,000 |
#3
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Please don't withhold any ideas that might help to get this car started. My intent is not to do the work to see who came up with the correct problem. My goal is to get the car started.
I only have limited time that I can devote to this "project", so I have to chose my plan of attack carefully. I don't have a problem doing more than one thing at a time, either. If the starter comes out for a rebuild, then there will be some downtime available to change the oil, check the valves, check and change the glow plugs, and change the fuel filters. Im not planning to treat this as a science experiment designed to isolate variables. I just want to get the thing up and running, which will open up a whole world of opportunities beyond having a non-running car in a wet, damp, cold, cluttered garage. All ideas are welcomed and encouraged.
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'93 190E/D 2.5 Turbodiesel 5-speed (daily driver) '87 190D 2.5 Turbo rustbucket - parts car '84 Dodge Rampage diesel - Land Speed Record Holder '13 Ram 2500 Diesel '05 Toyota 4Runner |
#4
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Blasphemy !!!!
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#5
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That sounds like the best plan to me, and not far from what I was thinking. I believe that all but the oil change are needed to get the car running, but it certainly won't hurt to change the oil while doing the other repairs (long drain time is good).
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![]() All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#6
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In the 3 Mercedes diesels that I've brought back to life, it has always seemed to help to bleed the injector lines like you would brakes. Have someone crank the car over, while that is happening pump on the primer While you crack a single injector line. Then close it up real good before your helper stops cranking. We've always started with the cylinder closest to the firewall and worked our way up. Normally starts after the 3rd one gets good and bled. Keep the pedal mashed so that when it does catch, it'll power through the remaining air in the lines.
Not scientific, but its always worked for us. Even on the motor that set uncovered for 3+ years in a dude's backyard. |
#7
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Quick update - her son has agreed to clean up the garage. When they both have time available, I'm going to bring a floor jack, jack stands, and enough tools to remove the starter.
My goal is to keep my hands in my pockets as much as possible during the starter removal. If they can get the starter out in a reasonable period of time, that will be a stepping stone to further success. Steve.
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'93 190E/D 2.5 Turbodiesel 5-speed (daily driver) '87 190D 2.5 Turbo rustbucket - parts car '84 Dodge Rampage diesel - Land Speed Record Holder '13 Ram 2500 Diesel '05 Toyota 4Runner |
#8
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Good training for the boy...
first instructions.... disconnect the battery... second.... no rings , jewelry , long hair hanging around... goggles when under the car... rust flakes will stick right to the eyeball... can't be rinsed off... took me two emergency eye Dr's visits to really learn that.... he could read Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance AND Muir's How to keep a VW alive for the complete idiot.....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#9
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I would take a second look and make sure the starter is bad before proceeding with its R&R. Are battery and ground strap connections OK? Is your remote starter switch OK and was it making a good connection? Are the connections and wiring to the starter OK? Maybe the starter just needs to be cranked a bit since it sat for 5 years and some corrosion set in?
Removing/ installing a starter in a 617 turbo is not a fun job. Make sure you have a plan B if plan A (jack stands + long 1/2" extensions) don't work out. I tried plan A on my 83 but only had 3/8" drive long extensions. Problem I ran into was I didn't have enough swing room with the long pipe (for leverage) on the 1/2 " breaker bar and 1/2" ratchet that I used because my jack stands was not tall enough (leverage pipe was hitting the ground due to the 3/8" drive long extensions twisting and I was not able to break loose the upper starter bolt). I did not want to buy 1/2" drive long extensions not knowing if it would make a difference so went to plan B and got the job done. If you strip the upper Allen starter bolt, engine has to come out.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#10
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Its not that bad, just need the right tools. You can fit a ujoint breaker bar and a allen socket in there.
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
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