OM606 NA Belt tensioner?? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

freesoul · #16 11-06-2014, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zulfiqar

btw freesoul - you might want to check out the walmart cleaning aisle for "mean green" to clean up the oily mess you have there. It works really great to clean old baked on dirt loaded grease..

I use something better, liquid glycerin soap made from the byproduct of making biodiesel

The Brown Soap Company

Zulfiqar · #17 11-06-2014, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freesoul

I use something better, liquid glycerin soap made from the byproduct of making biodiesel

The Brown Soap Company

wow - you treat your engine with salon soap?... thass a bit overkill, I shoot it with meangreen and a brush then flush with water.

Zulfiqar · #18 11-06-2014, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeremy5848

Also note that both front and rear seals are important if you want the new "bearing" to last. The front "seal" is just a plastic cap that looks decorative; the rear seal is often missing. EPC shows both. The seals keep water out of the bearing.

the rear seal is the plastic washer?

Zulfiqar · #19 11-06-2014, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freesoul

I decided to stay with the one I ordered and pick it up today at 3pm. My next question is should I put any WD40 or grease on the bolt or leave it dry?

I have asked this question and have been answered that the genuine part is pre-oiled (the bearing is porous). Never got an answer to it, But there should be some lubrication there as its a high pressure application.

freesoul · #20 11-06-2014, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zulfiqar

I have asked this question and have been answered that the genuine part is pre-oiled (the bearing is porous). Never got an answer to it, But there should be some lubrication there as its a high pressure application.

When I picked up the part a short while ago, I asked and they said it goes in dry. However if the goal is to keep moisture out then why not a little oil or grease? I am ready to head out to garage and install- trying to decide now...

netboy · #21 11-06-2014, 09:56 PM

Back to the original pics at the top of the thread. My 91 350SDL shock Damper makes a wicked loud growl at idle. I removed the bolt and installed a rubber grommet and it quieted for a day or two but now the growl is back. Anyone ever battled that?
Also anyone ever close the waste gate a little on this engine to get a little more power?

freesoul · #22 11-06-2014, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by netboy

Back to the original pics at the top of the thread. My 91 350SDL shock Damper makes a wicked loud growl at idle. I removed the bolt and installed a rubber grommet and it quieted for a day or two but now the growl is back. Anyone ever battled that?
Also anyone ever close the waste gate a little on this engine to get a little more power?

mine is NA no wastegate. The only noise I had the first time the tensioner went bad was a squeeling.

I did put a little WD40 on the big bolt and wiped it off. I took some video, will see how that turns out and maybe put it online to help others

Zulfiqar · #23 11-07-2014, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freesoul

When I picked up the part a short while ago, I asked and they said it goes in dry. However if the goal is to keep moisture out then why not a little oil or grease? I am ready to head out to garage and install- trying to decide now...

I was told the bushing in the arm is oil soaked (like the little bushings on our HVAC blower motors)

The pattern part I bought which failed had some play in it when new, the new MB parts (spensive as heck) were very finely machined and had no play at all. it also was coated in what resembled very sticky motorcycle chain wax. Meaning that the arm was stiff to rotate on the pin. I didnt clean it off (but as jeremy said - dont forget the rear seal - I believe you can also use an O ring there)

The shock absorber is also a component to only buy from MB because the last updated design has the longest lasting bushings in it. (I gave my old one to another guy who filled the broken bushings with some 2 part urethane and he says its working perfectly)

I also put in a clutched pulley on the alternator - it was used on the 99 model cars, it prevents the arm/shock from overworking. An alternator shop can install it.