It's the one on the right that is leaking.
It's hard to get this one off and I don't want to make anything worse.
Anyone got extremely detailed advice and or want to walk me through it on the phone?

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That seems to happen to older fuel hoses, especially with the injector return lines. The rubber becomes hard and is difficult to remove. I usually have to cut the line, then use a razor to cut it down the middle (hot dog style) to remove it. Twisting it, while pulling also works.

Those are my absolute least-favorite style of hose clamps. I really prefer the stainless worm-screw clamps that can accept a screwdriver or a nut driver. Comes in handy for tight locations. Frequently I can fit a 1/4" drive ratchet where I sure can't fit a screwdriver. Must be VERY careful with that method, very easy to over tighten when using a ratchet.

When cutting the line off, I've found it much easier to use the steel tubing as a guide and cut along the side, similar to cutting corn off a cob or peeling a cucumber, instead of putting the point of the knife against the steel tubing. Less chance of the blade slipping off and damaging something or hurting yourself.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

The rubber self vulcanizes to the metal fuel line with time. Very common and unrealistic to expect the hose just to slide off. Usually I just give it a twist with pliers. Although the ideal of weakening the hose with a razor blade or sharp blade of another type is valid. Just try not to score the metal fuel line.

Fortunatly the general appearance of your metal fuel lines look very good so they will take some stress. I would drain down the tank first and cut the hose near to the tank nipple if working at it with a blade. I preffer the twist though as it usually breaks the bond at the metal to rubber interface area.

I had to assume you where mentioning the place where the clamp is already off.

I'd rather leave some length on the hose to have something to grip while twisting and pulling.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

If you slice it down its length, you won't need to pull. You'll need to PEEL.

Those I believe are the fuel vent line and fuel return line....they can be pulled off and replaced....would be wise to drain the tank....while I would be fixing those, I would pull the tank, clean the strainer or replace as well as the other hose running to it and I would clean the sender/float....all things that should be done after this many years..

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Does anyone know the exact size of this hose here on peachparts?
I need to replace the one on my w116 Turbodiesel too, but I don't know the exact size.

thnx

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'80 300 SD, 300k

On My year and Model they were 5/16" ID Hose bought from the local Autozone and of course Hose Clamps.
SAE 30R7 is regular Fuel Hose and it is rated for Disel Fuel as well as Gasoline. At the local Auto Parts you will find the GoodYear or Gates version.

Also on My Year and Model I needed to cut the crimped on Collar off of the part of the Hose that screwed into the Fuel Tank Oulet/Fuel Tank Screen to remove the Hose and expose the Hose Barb.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel