For Sale: EGR Delete/Block-off Plate Kit - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #16 06-06-2014, 11:43 PM

I finally got the gaskets, and have them ready to ship. My friend has a skin packer, so we packaged them up like so:

P M me if you would like to purchase one (or several). Thanks, Rich

jdeoliveira74 · #17 06-26-2014, 09:26 PM

I'm new here but would love a egr block off kit please
Jon
1987 300sdl
1970 300sd

MSGGrunt · #18 06-27-2014, 09:13 AM

I'll take one as well for my 1982 300sd.

PM sent

MSGGrunt · #19 07-10-2014, 10:06 PM

Ordered a kit and let me tell everyone... The kit is top notch in quality right down to the packaging and labeling. It will be nice getting rid of a system that has, IMHO, no place on a diesel engine. And the shipping was extremely fast. Thanks ROLLGUY for making such a great kit available at such a great price.

ROLLGUY · #20 07-11-2014, 01:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MSGGrunt

Ordered a kit and let me tell everyone... The kit is top notch in quality right down to the packaging and labeling. It will be nice getting rid of a system that has, IMHO, no place on a diesel engine. And the shipping was extremely fast. Thanks ROLLGUY for making such a great kit available at such a great price.

I will have to say that anyone that wants one for $15 should order one soon. As of August first, the price will go up to $20 shipped (50 states).
Anyone feel free to post photos of your installation. Thanks, Rich

mikeyfev1 · #21 07-16-2014, 04:16 PM

Here are some pictures of installing this kit on my car:

Photo 1 shows the location of the EGR on the OM603 engine.
Photo 2 is the location of the 3 bolts that hold the EGR to the engine. Bolt 1 is a 7/16" bolt (too big for 10mm; too small for 11mm). Bolts 2 & 3 are 6mm hex socket head bolts.
Since these bolts attach to exhaust components, I started with a bit of penetrating lubricant on each bolt first.
When you remove Bolt 1 from the exhaust manifold, don't worry about dropping the nut on the back side of the clamp, its attached. Take the bolt all the way out and expand the clamp to remove it. Photo 3 is a close-up of the clamp.
Make sure your Allen wrench (or socket) fits Bolts 2 & 3 very securely (you don't want to strip them) and remove each bolt. See photo 4.
Photo 5 shows the area with everything removed....to be continued...

mikeyfev1 · #22 07-16-2014, 04:34 PM

Before installing the kit, I gave the exhaust manifold connection surface a bit of a wire brush cleaning. Other kits advise you to use a ultra-high temp copper-based gasket liquid between the block-off disk and the exhaust manifold; the EGR tube doesn't have this material so I didn't use any either.
This step is possibly the most difficult of the entire process; I have always struggled with these rigid clamp/bolt setups. You have to put the block-off disk from the kit into the clamp and put the clamp over the exhaust manifold tube at the same time. Orient the disk in the clamp so that from outside the disk is convex--the folded edge of the disk mates with the tapered edge of the exhaust manifold tube. All of this has to be in place while you get the bolt inserted into the clamp and threaded. I find that if before I try to insert the bolt I use a pair of slip joint pliers to squeeze the clamp ends together (squeeze the clamp shut) that threading the bolt is much easier.
After some very nasty cleaning inside of the EGR/intake maniforld port, I did some mild scraping/cleaning (careful, its aluminum) on the intake manifold port surface to ensure it was flat before installing the gasket and the block-off plate and the two replacement bolts. The replacement bolts must be used because they are shorter than the original EGR bolts. I used anti-seize on these bolts because they are steel and the bolt holes are aluminum.
The last photo shows the kit fully installed.

ROLLGUY · #23 07-16-2014, 07:46 PM

Thanks Mike for the excellent how-to.......Rich

Mölyapina · #24 07-16-2014, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Thanks Mike for the excellent how-to.......Rich

For "Chief Village Idiot", he's pretty darn good

.

Dan Stokes · #25 07-17-2014, 09:43 AM

Rich - Where were you when I was doing mine?! A made my own but I'll wager NOT as pretty as yours are. Nice stuff.

Guys - if you'll look at my manual boost controller installation on my build thread you'll see that the intake block-off plate is an excellent place to grab boost pressure - just drill and tap (I used 1/8" NPT). I chanced drilling thru the powder coat but it worked OK.

Dan

DrLou · #26 07-17-2014, 10:13 AM

Rich, Looks great! I'll take one. PM sent. Lou

showtimex · #27 07-25-2014, 04:29 AM

Rich, tried to send you a PM, not sure if that went through, I'd like to order one kit to 98226. Thanks

ROLLGUY · #28 08-04-2014, 01:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I will have to say that anyone that wants one for $15 should order one soon. As of August first, the price will go up to $20 shipped (50 states).
Anyone feel free to post photos of your installation. Thanks, Rich

The price is now $20 shipped per kit. I don't know how to modify the first post, so I can't change the price......Rich

compress ignite · #29 08-04-2014, 04:50 AM

OM 602.962 ?
Deleting EGR with "Kit" [Anyone's]

READ this Biblical Length Post FIRST !

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/212097-wastegate-actuator-swap-om602-962-a.html

Blocking Off the EGR will force the EDS
(Electronic Diesel System,the engine computer) to Kill the Boost from the Turbo.
UNLESS you follow GSXR's instructions for WG replacement.

The Kit "On Offer" is certainly Nice and functional...

BUT,I like My Kit with Stainless Steel Plate, Bolts and Gasket
that came with the Ultra Copper High Temp sealant and 1/16" thick Copper Disc.
That I may have gotten,
from someone who might have been in a State contiguous with N.J.
Who,in an Obverse universe,might have been CB.

Bonus Info:
The Turbocharger will not actually produce "Boost" until it's "under load".
I.E. All systems are operational, the Tranny is in Gear and your right foot is doing it's assigned job.
(Watching the Compressor Vanes Pinwheel with the engine running Ain't "Boost".)

Y'all will please note the "Zoomed" picture (Number 5 0f 5) of mikeyfav's reply#21
It's showing the Intake Port on the Pressurized connector that runs
between the Turbocharger and the Crossover Pipe that feeds the Intake Manifold.
[The EGR uses that port during Warm-Up, Idling to INJECT the NASTY CARBON CRUD from the exhaust into
the Intake to control emissions. (Counter-Intuitive) ]
The little circle that looks Blocked with Nasty Black EGR exhaust dust mixed with oil is exactlywhat it looks like!!!
AND you can bet your last dollar the Inside of:
The Crossover Pipe,Intake Manifold and anything downstream of the EGR
ALL LOOK EXACTLY LIKE IT!!
This be the reason to Test the EGR by blocking it off for "Off Road" purposes Only!

If y'all REALLY wanna enjoy the full benefits of the Wastegate/EGR Delete,
Take the Crossover.Connector and Intake manifold Off and clean them.
Any part of the Sensing system's Tubes and Ports,ETC. should be cleaned also!

ROLLGUY · #30 08-04-2014, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compress ignite

OM 602.962 ?
Deleting EGR with "Kit" [Anyone's]

READ this Biblical Length Post FIRST !

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/212097-wastegate-actuator-swap-om602-962-a.html

Blocking Off the EGR will force the EDS
(Electronic Diesel System,the engine computer) to Kill the Boost from the Turbo.
UNLESS you follow GSXR's instructions for WG replacement.

The Kit "On Offer" is certainly Nice and functional...

BUT,I like My Kit with Stainless Steel Plate, Bolts and Gasket
that came with the Ultra Copper High Temp sealant and 1/16" thick Copper Disc.
That I may have gotten,
from someone who might have been in a State contiguous with N.J.
Who,in an Obverse universe,might have been CB.

Bonus Info:
The Turbocharger will not actually produce "Boost" until it's "under load".
I.E. All systems are operational, the Tranny is in Gear and your right foot is doing it's assigned job.
(Watching the Compressor Vanes Pinwheel with the engine running Ain't "Boost".)

Y'all will please note the "Zoomed" picture (Number 5 0f 5) of mikeyfav's reply#21
It's showing the Intake Port on the Pressurized connector that runs
between the Turbocharger and the Crossover Pipe that feeds the Intake Manifold.
[The EGR uses that port during Warm-Up, Idling to INJECT the NASTY CARBON CRUD from the exhaust into
the Intake to control emissions. (Counter-Intuitive) ]
The little circle that looks Blocked with Nasty Black EGR exhaust dust mixed with oil is exactlywhat it looks like!!!
AND you can bet your last dollar the Inside of:
The Crossover Pipe,Intake Manifold and anything downstream of the EGR
ALL LOOK EXACTLY LIKE IT!!
This be the reason to Test the EGR by blocking it off for "Off Road" purposes Only!

If y'all REALLY wanna enjoy the full benefits of the Wastegate/EGR Delete,
Take the Crossover.Connector and Intake manifold Off and clean them.
Any part of the Sensing system's Tubes and Ports,ETC. should be cleaned also!

I have found that the easy thing to do on the EDS equipped engines (well at least the '91 300D 2.5T) is to just put vacuum to the wastegate all the time. Unlike the 617's, the WG is normally open, NOT normally closed. With vacuum to the WG all the time, the car has all the power the engine can give, and runs great (kinda like a "greased cheetah chasing a bullet train"). I know some folks will balk at this suggestion, but I don't know what to say, other than it works. Changing the actuator is a big job for some, so this way is much easier. I know that the only over-boost protection you have with this method is in your right foot, but it has been my experience that these engines do not get close to an over-boost condition very often (if ever). Maybe when they were new and all the systems were in perfect working order was that protection needed. Always remember in situations like this: "your mileage may vary"- just sayin'........Rich