Hi everyone, I'm in the process of changing out my R4 compressor before it gets too hot here in Dallas. Some would it's already too hot as it was 93 today...

I have a new Compressorworks R4 ready to install, but I want to make sure I'm getting the hose manifold hooked up right.

In the pics are the parts that came with the compressor and a pic of the hose manifold. Please ignore the zip tie holding the hoses in place temporarily. I know from this forum I'm supposed to use the Green and Yellow sealing rings, but do I need to use either of the aluminum inserts? The compressor is the standard stepped port/manifold type that is sold these days.

It seems like if I can tap in and secure one of the aluminum inserts (probably the taller one) into the low-side hose, it will better center the sealing ring and hopefully not leak at all. but I don't want it to come loose and shred the compressor either...

Thanks!

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cbjukraine
'84 300D

bump

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cbjukraine
'84 300D

I choose not to install the insert, for the reason that you stated. That was eight years ago.

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Just use the yellow and green rings. No spacers.

Are you planning to run R12 or convert to R134a?

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Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Local shop is going to charge it with R12 for me.

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cbjukraine
'84 300D

Although I have had several bad R4's right out of the box, I wish you luck. The whole Compressorworks R4 fiasco I had, compelled me to make a Sanden retrofit bracket. I will never use another R4 again. If your R4 ever decides to give up on you, I am ready to help you "Sandenize" your 'Benz.......Rich

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All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

This is indeed the last R4 compressor I will be installing on my car. If this one fails or leaks out or anything, I'll be going the Sanden route, either with the Klima kits or something else.

The Sanden compressor can do R12, right?

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cbjukraine
'84 300D

As far as I know, all new compressors can run any refrigerant. The only issue might be an older R-12 compressor seal not being compatible with R-134A, though I never read of that. I suggest looking at PAO 68 oil, which is fairly new. It works for any viscosity requirement and compatible with all refrigerants and former oils. It is supposed to stay put in the compressor better, which seems important for the Harrison R4. I used Duracool's version they term "Oil Chill" or such, along with their HC refrigerant, in several cars including my two 300D's - one w/ an R4 and one with a Sanden (Rollguy's brackets). If using a shop, R-12 is your best choice since most enforce a quasi-conspiracy against HC refrigerants.

I didn't use any of the spacers when I installed the R4 in my grey 300SD. I remember one seal was thicker than the other. You want the manifold to fit on the compressor flush with the ports and you should be able to test a few different seals before you tighten it down. Green and yellow should work. I am assuming the one without paint on it is the yellow one.

I also bought the R134a conversion seal kit to replace all the O-rings in the system. You can run R12 on those seals, as well.

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2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
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