Hi everyone

I recently checked the trust bushing for the oil pump drive on my 240.
Here is a pic of the worn out bushing.



Time for a replacement.

Due to the geometry of the oil pump drive, the driven shaft is pushed upward against this bushing.
If the wear becomes to severe, the gears can disengage and the oil pump stops working.

The brass bushing is pressed in to a larger aluminum bushing, that is accessible at the top of the engine block, on the same side and a little forward of the injection pump, on all 621, 615, 616, 617 non turbo engines.

One can only buy the brass and aluminum bushing together.
The last one I bought from Metric Motors was $60.

I found a lengths of bearing bronce at Industrial Metal Supply with the right dimensions, 1" outside 1/2" inside, seen in above picture for 30some Dollars.

So I tried to make my own bushing.
Here a pic of the first stage, in and out side dimensions are done, just the length has to be determent.



To get the length, I had to install the bushing and try it out in the engine.
I took material of the face till I could install the holding bolt of the aluminum bushing and had some play in the oil pump drive it self.

Here it is before the fitting and then finished.





It's also a good idea to check the drive itself.
Make sure the contact surface to the bushing is not to rough, if necessary polish it a little.

__________________

76 240 D. Bought in 1998 for $25.
85 300D. Got it for free with a bad engine. ( Sold )
60 Unimog 404. What was left of it, was given to me. Now powerd by 617A.
88 560 SEL. Bought without engine and trans. Now powerd by 617A.
67 250 SE. Cuope. For resto or sale.
64 220SE. For resto.

Good post. I might have just refaced the original bushing and added a spacer. Yours is the proper way though. I only take my calculated gambles if the odds favour me a lot. I guess my decision might be based on the general condition overall of the powerplant. At least you reminded me it does not hurt to check the endplay as part of an engine inspection program on either of my 240ds.

Do you have any ideal of the total miles on that engine?

Picture of where it is located? Instructions on how to remove?

Thanks!

I used the spacer method when I rebuild the engine 100 000 miles ago.
By now there was nothing left to space anymore.

__________________

76 240 D. Bought in 1998 for $25.
85 300D. Got it for free with a bad engine. ( Sold )
60 Unimog 404. What was left of it, was given to me. Now powerd by 617A.
88 560 SEL. Bought without engine and trans. Now powerd by 617A.
67 250 SE. Cuope. For resto or sale.
64 220SE. For resto.

All right.

The pic shows the location of the bushing, right under the 22mm plug.




To remove:

Loosen the top plug, it can be 19mm or 22mm, depending on your model.
It's easier to loosen it now, you have no way of holding the round bushing when it is out.
If it is a 22mm, unscrew the plug and remove the aluminum washer below it.
The large washer may hit the head when you pull out the bushing.
Screw the plug back in, but don't tighten it.

Next unscrew the bolt that holds the bushing.
It's right below the plug in the engine block.
It can be 10mm, 13mm or 15mm depending on your model.

It's the bolt that doesn't hold anything in the pic.



Now take some pliers, grab the hex of the plug and pull the whole thing out toward the top.

The aluminum bushing is sealed by a O ring that you may want to replace.

When you install the bushing, make sure that the pin of the bolt hits the upper hole in the bushing, otherwise you will crush the alu part.

__________________

76 240 D. Bought in 1998 for $25.
85 300D. Got it for free with a bad engine. ( Sold )
60 Unimog 404. What was left of it, was given to me. Now powerd by 617A.
88 560 SEL. Bought without engine and trans. Now powerd by 617A.
67 250 SE. Cuope. For resto or sale.
64 220SE. For resto.

For People who might be buying Bronze Bearing Material. There is a difference between Solid Bronze Bering Material and the type the is sort or porous (sintered Bronze?) and made to hold Oil inside of the pores.
I think for this application the Solid Bronze is what is needed.

By solid I don't mean it cannot have a hole already down the Center I mean that the Metal is cast.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Sounds like you caught it in time. I did not on my 500,000 mile 240D and wrecked the bottom end.

Nice machining job!:

Are you going into business?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

+1, I would like to know this too.

Back in the dark ages, we called it "oillite."

That is what I remember also but I have not been exposed to info on that sort of stuff since the 1980s.

I was not sure and suck My Neck (due to My vague Memory) out when I said the Oillite stock was sintered.

I don't think that Oillite Bearing Stock would be the best choice for this particular application; but, I don't know for sure.

Maybe someone with more detailed and current knowledge can comment on that.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Oilite is powdered metal pressed into a form then sintered to partially fuse the particles,
then into a vacuum pot filled with oil , vacuum pulled and then after a time pressure is returned to force the oil into the porosity. great for light duty apps... your choice

Here are pictures of my bushing, looks okay to me.

I am having trouble reassembling the bushing. I can get the bushing down and the set bolt in when the shaft is not in. But when the shaft is in, the bushing does not go down far enough to get the bolt in the side in. What am I doing wrong? I ran out of daylight but will be working on it again tomorrow.

Thanks!

Attached Thumbnails

   

The pics in the thread are the most I have seen so this is as stab in the Dark. Is it possible to install the Bushing and then install the Shaft?

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

No, unfortunately that is not possible as the top of the gear rides on the bushing.