My Official OM617 Toyota Pickup Repower Thread

[OM617YOTA]

Truck keeps running smoothly. It's settled down a bit, running better now than it ever has.........ever.

Here in Oregon the eclipse madness is well and truly underway. Population along the path of totality is projected to double this weekend. One would be well advised to have their weekend shopping done as soon as possible, and gas shortages are starting. My girlfriend reports that a couple stations in Albany are out of gas and the state is issuing directives to it's employees to fill up all state vehicles the next couple days, regardless of how full the tank is.

While incredibly unlikely to be needed, I have a significant stock of kerosene(scored a 55 gal drum full for a very good price not long ago, along with a few other cans) that my truck can burn, in addition to the automotive oils/veggie oil/tiki torch fuel/etc that could be scrounged up. Makes me smile, even in a protracted fuel shortage, we'd be able to get around just fine for quite awhile.

[OM617YOTA]

Update time!

Alternator tensioner turnbuckle broke again, seems to happen routinely every 15-20k miles. After the last time, Mach4 suggested a much more sturdy stainless steel marine grade turnbuckle. This was great advice, and with further research, instead of a marine turnbuckle I bought a stainless tensioner with heim joints on the end, specifically built for tensioning applications. I then set it on the shelf and didn't install it(dumb), waiting to do so "when I get time". Well, this one breaking was ample reason to install it.

When I pulled the truck into the shop to install the tensioner, the shutdown was a mite bit sluggish. Turn off the key, ran for a continued half second before shutting down. Odd. While under the hood, I pulled the vacuum line off the shutdown box on the IP, no surprise to find black oil in the line. Snagged the spare shutdown box off the old IP, swapped it out, blew the oil out of my vacuum lines. The oil had not reached the pump yet. Back to normal shut down.

Just keeps moving along.

[t walgamuth]

Thanks for the report!

[OM617YOTA]

Hey your Studebaker pickup in your sigline looks good! Will have to go over to your build thread and see where you're at on it.

[t walgamuth]

Thanks!
Its been in the garage since racing season started.

I need to get the interior done and the shift bushings redone this winter.

Search "39 Studebaker coupe express".

[Simpler=Better]

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA

Couple hundred miles since the last update, all still well.

I am so stinking happy to nail this thing down. Hate to give up on a conversion project because of a niggling detail like this but it was getting close.

When you start talking like that it makes me want to start making offers on teh truck

NAPA has anything & everything for my stock truck...cmon' you know you want to back to 12mpg...

[OM617YOTA]

Hah, at this point it would take more to get me to let it go than any sane person would pay for it. Probably enough to build another truck, using what I learned on this one. 100% not at all worth it.

[OM617YOTA]

Finally got around to ditching the Dodge Neon filter. Went with AEM Dryflow as it is one of the few cleanable/reusable air filters that filters on a level comparable to a paper filter. Wasn't interested in something that flowed more at the expense of more dirt.

Less exhaust smoke, spools faster, revs more readily, feels peppier, pulls hills easier. I attribute only a small amount of this to the higher flowing filter and rather more of it to replacing a dirty clogged air filter with a clean one.

[OM617YOTA]

Yanked the ALDA tonight.

Short test drive reveals pretty much zero difference. Wasn't expecting any difference in top end power or power once on boost of course, but was hoping for more responsiveness to throttle input before boosting. I could sometimes catch myself going "yeah that was a liiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiittle faster??" but the human butt dyno is neither accurate nor consistent. Regardless, if gremlins had snuck out to the shop and removed the ALDA while I slept, I very much doubt I would have noticed from the way it drove.

Exhaust smoke might be another matter. Test drive was at night so smoke results inconclusive, going to test drive it during daylight and see what's going on. If it smokes more, that ALDA is going back on.

If that's all the difference it makes, I have no idea why people do this. I personally have zero interest in rolling coal.

Edit: I also have a couple hundred miles on it since installing the new air filter. It has definitely made a difference over and above just a clean air filter. My "dyno hills" are easier to climb now.

[t walgamuth]

BC removed his alda at least for a while. Maybe you can find the thread about that and see what he found. I believe his user name was BrianCarlton.

[Dan Stokes]

I didn't get anything out of pulling my ALDA based on track results. The Dieselmeken pump has nothing along the lines of an ALDA so it all went away when I changed pumps..

Dan

[Simpler=Better]

Pulling the ALDA only give you a boost when it's out of adjustment or has failed (most cars).

You must have just gotten lucky with a good one.

Some people get bent out of shape, but I'm a fan of running without it and adjusting your driving. Kinda like old carbeurators-you just don't mash the pedal from takeoff and you're A-OK

[OM617YOTA]

Thanks folks.

Live and learn, had I known I'd have just left it on. It was kind of a pain to do, so if the smoke is acceptable I'll leave it off, otherwise it's going back on.

[OM617YOTA]

Drove it during the day this time. If I drive normally I get no extra smoke. If I mash the throttle at low revs/off boost then yeah I can get some smoke for a fraction of a second, but I have to try.

As it's fine in normal driving, I'll probably leave it off. Was kind of a pain to remove.

[OM617YOTA]

Bit of an update.

Leaving the ALDA off. Smoke in daily driving is no different, as is MPG, and I don't feel like dealing with putting it back on. I will be finding a cap that looks prettier and more "finished" than a plastic bag zip tied over the opening.

Started getting slow shut downs again, a delay between key off and then the engine slowly shutting down over 1-2 seconds. Pulled the hose off the vacuum shutoff on the IP(edit: no oil) and put my thumb over it, and feel a slight vacuum all the time. Shut off the key and feel vacuum slowly build over the timeframe mentioned above. Bypass the 12v solenoid and attach the vacuum line directly to the IP running full vacuum, and the engine shuts off immediately and with authority. So I'll be hitting a junk yard at some point to grab a vacuum solenoid, and keeping in mind that I may find myself having to pop the hood to shut down the engine at some point before then.

Just occurring to me now as I type all that ^ out, I should disconnect the shut down line and go for a drive and see if the vacuum leak to shutoff is robbing any power. Unlikely but maybe.

Anyone have a vacuum solenoid they'd sell me? PP at the ready.

Filled up at my preferred B20 station last night. I like that station because it's B20, and it's the least expensive station in the area. All diesel in Oregon is B5, but that B20 makes the engine run smoother, less clatter, and the exhaust doesn't smell like burning plastic. Too bad the station's a bit out of the way and usually quite busy, means I fill up elsewhere most of the time. Zero sense driving 30 miles out of my way to save 30 cents per gallon.

That's it for now. Thank you for tuning in, back to your regularly scheduled programming.