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balancing disc installation
1983 617 engine. Getting ready to install the balancing disc. Any secrets or ideas on how to keep the fitted pins perfectly aligned while installing it? It can not be adjusted after its installed, right?
The FSM wasn't very helpful on this one. Thanks! |
#2
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The key is to take your time.
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Jim Last edited by engatwork; 10-25-2011 at 06:58 PM. |
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I agree, take your time. Once its half way on the pins should start to lineup. If not, remove it and start again.
Thanks for the help. |
#4
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According to the FSM the disc should be installed first, then once aligned the dowel pins are driven in flush.
I just did this a couple months ago. I used an impact gun to draw the disc flush against the spacer ring then removed the bolt (this keeps the eng from rotating like it does with a socket & breaker or ratchet). The disc can be rotated using a piece of wood and a hammer at the 2 recesses in the disc to align the dowel bores. I used a 5/16 (.312") drill as a go/no go gauge. The pins are 8mm (.320"). Once it feels properly aligned I used a dental pick to probe the dowel bores to check for alignment at the seams, some "fine tuning" with the hammer & wood was required. After all is lined up the dowels are driven in with a hammer & small drift until flush. This creates an interference fit deforming the dowels, so you only get 1 chance to get it right. DO NOT reuse the dowels, get new ones & trim to proper length ( the new ones P/N 000007 008244 are actually supplied too long). My guess is that most balancer failures are due to old dowels being reused.
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82 300SD 202K 82 300SD 233K 83 300TD 340K 82 300TD 98k euro (parts on the hoof) 85 300TD 282K 83 300TD 197K |
#5
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Johnt49
That is exactly what I needed. Got it right the first time! thanks again! |
#6
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Do you trim the new dowels to length prior to driving them in, or do you drive them in first then trim them flush to the face?
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#7
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Answer
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ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#8
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What do you use to trim them? Any tips or tricks? It looks like it might be a little tricky to get a flush cut due to the recessed surface.
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Answer
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#10
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I shortened mine off the car. I didn't and still don't trust myself with one of those dremels anywhere near parts that cost money!
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/295471-warning-om617-dowel-pins-now-supplied-incorrect-length.html whunter must have nerves of steel.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#11
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Chuckle
Quote:
![]() and plenty of spare parts. ![]() A few scratches wont hurt the hard steel parts, and the pins are very soft steel. . |
#12
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Quote:
(Now I bet you know about that bit of TV trivia)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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