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#16
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thanks i'll ck it out
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http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/OC03/240d.jpg Current Car: 1985 300DT 55K miles |
#17
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update not a good 1
with the trans modulator disconnected its been drivable when the trans is a little warm. when it was just started [cold] it wouldnt shift into 3rd. today that all changed; it wont shift into 3rd at all. i tried using my MV to put 5-15 in vacuum to the modulator but no change. i dont know what the vacuum dashpot looks like can someone post a photo of it and maybe a link to a diy thread to clean it? thanks im at the end of my ability to figure it out thanks
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http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/OC03/240d.jpg Current Car: 1985 300DT 55K miles |
#18
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I leak a bit of Tranny fluid, and when it's low it stops wanting to shift out of 2nd. I add fluid and presto it's back to normal. So.......... is your fluid low?
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#19
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nope and the filters recently new too
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http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/OC03/240d.jpg Current Car: 1985 300DT 55K miles |
#20
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Have you tried unplugging the kickdown switch?
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#21
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yes and the valve cover mounted downshift switch also [1985 ]
also forgot to add that trans will be in neutral [slipping] if going fast enough from the 2nd gear upshift shift point
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http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/OC03/240d.jpg Current Car: 1985 300DT 55K miles Last edited by richclan; 11-15-2011 at 09:10 PM. |
#22
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Is it safe to disconnect the vacuum modulator and plug the hoses then drive the car normally?
I just unplugged it to test, and my transmission shifted a lot better, after having some of the same problems as OP. I will get to fixing it properly when I have more time.
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1986 300SDL 313K |
#23
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ARMY this is your trans. mine is an 85 and much different i dont have the dashpot or kickdown solenoid HELP!!!!!!!!!
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http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/OC03/240d.jpg Current Car: 1985 300DT 55K miles |
#24
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Your transmission should look more like this
Have you managed to find a 722.3 / 722.4 manual yet? Have you still got the same symptoms as described in your first post? Can you find the whole transmission number on the side of the casing just above the oil pan on the right hand side of the transmission? If you've got that then I can check through the German FSM for you - but you'll have to be patient - I can struggle by with Dutch but my German is pants...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#25
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Quote:
what else externally controls the shifting [ vacuum mod. bowden cable] note there is an electrical plug in the back of trans is that the reverse switch?
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http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/OC03/240d.jpg Current Car: 1985 300DT 55K miles |
#26
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There is an electrical connector for the reverse lights. The shifting "when" is usually done by some sort of connection to the throttle linkage but that isn't the case for all - there are always exceptions!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#27
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here it is Army
722 315 02 thanks
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http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/OC03/240d.jpg Current Car: 1985 300DT 55K miles |
#28
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Right I got this WRONG!
Quote:
...totally different place from a 722.1... (I'm learning too - really couldn't have been more inaccurate - anyway deep breath) According to ATSG the colour code for your 722.315 transmission vacuum dash pot should be "GREEN" I think it is worthwhile taking it out and seeing what condition it is in before going any further. Look for cracked rubber connections or any damage or anything "obvious" (yeah I know obvious isn't always obvious!)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#29
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Quote:
i guess its straight forward, lower trans unbolt and clean? no surprises like springs shootin all over or fluid gushing LOL please reply HAHA seriously and by dashpot your not referring to the modulator?????
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http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/OC03/240d.jpg Current Car: 1985 300DT 55K miles |
#30
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i figured out that i have a kick down solenoid on the back of the trans.
the wire i referred to earlier is not the reverse sw. its the solenoid hot wire. this wire goes to the kick down sw. under the throttle. i tested mine and it works fine. engine running sw. pressed 13+ VDC 1VDC static i guess i'll remove the kick down solenoid and see if its dirty / sticking. i can only hope its this. any other ideas are WELCOME !!!!
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http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/OC03/240d.jpg Current Car: 1985 300DT 55K miles |
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