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#1
03-10-2011, 03:20 AM
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Water pump glued to housing!
Well, it's been said that better is the natural enemy of "good enough"... I'm working on transferring pieces of my old engine (OM616) to new engine (OM616). I decided to spring for a new water pump, on the theory that it was better to spend $52 now to change it on the bench rather than have to do it out in the cold rain sometime down the road.
Well, the previous owner (or maybe even PPO) glued the water pump to the housing. I got all five bolts out without breakage, but it just won't let go. I've whacked it with a rubber hammer, whacked it with a regular hammer buffered by a block of wood, but nothing budges. When I run a finger round the sealing crack I find vestiges of sealing goop. I'm thinking of putting the housing in a vise, and then using a monkey wrench to try and twist it off. Or maybe heating things up a bit will break the seal? Ideas? Thanks in advance, Kurt
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- '79 240D - engine swap complete! Engine broken in! 28-31 mpg! Lovin' the ride! - '86 190D (W201-126) - 2.5 NA engine, 5 speed, cloth interior, manual climate controls, 33-34 mpg (sold to forum member). 
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#2
03-10-2011, 03:47 AM
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Hey Kurt,
As long as you've removed the rubber hoses I guess heat could be a good thing here. You are meant to use RTV here - but it sounds like it is a bit more extreme... You can also remove the whole assembly that holds the water pump to the block. That might help. Avoid using screw drivers etc to pry things apart. Thinner might help too.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior  Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#3
03-10-2011, 05:31 AM
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Heat normally gets rid of goo!! dont over do it!
__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....  1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles  1987 250td 160k miles English import  2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles  1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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#4
03-10-2011, 05:56 AM
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Picture
Here's a picture of the housing removed from my OM617
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#5
03-10-2011, 08:25 AM
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I allways glue gaskets to the accessory piece; never to the block for this very reason. ( if there is a gasket--N/A to RTV only connections)
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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags 
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#6
03-10-2011, 10:40 AM
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Yeah- I've got one like that somewhere. I think it's just galvanic corrosion and a very close tolerance. I would heat it up, carefully.
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
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