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  #1  
Old 03-07-2011, 08:34 AM
ngarover's Avatar
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83 300D Parts car... any thing else?

Located this car a few miles from me, guy bought it for the engine to put in his jeep. Here are pictures of whats currently left, what else should I grab?

What I've gotten so far,

Inside or rear brake lights to do the duel conversion.
sunroof motor&cable, (Already installed in my CD and working great!)
Mono Valve (installed in my 81)
aircon control, (installed in my 81)
rear view mirror (installed in my cd)
pass door mirror (added to my 81)
any good wood trim (to practice refinishing)
pass seat bottom, (installed in my 81 drivers side)
rear seat upper, (installed in my 81)
all the vacuum pods (tested and working)
All the tires and (5)rims (90%) tread. (going to pick out 5 best from all my rims and have them redone for the CD.)
Rear end, (going to upgrade the 81 low gear ratio rear, also gives me spare axels)
power ant, and brand new in the bag power mast. (going in CD)
Dash pod (to match the rear end)
All the switches (just in case)

What's left...
All doors, glass, regulators, door panels are fair. steering box (Has a little play but lots of adjustment left)
Car was driven before parting to test engine... so that transmission is good. anything else? The car is about to goto the scrapper or he will sell the remainder for 300 bucks. (the price he will get from the scrapper)






Attached Thumbnails
83 300D Parts car... any thing else?-parts1.jpg   83 300D Parts car... any thing else?-parts2.jpg   83 300D Parts car... any thing else?-parts3.jpg   83 300D Parts car... any thing else?-parts4.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 03-07-2011, 12:18 PM
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Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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I use a 14.4 volt battery for a DeWalt drill, made some jumper wires to use at PNP to get the window motors to work and to check the regulators. you will have to get the window 1/2 way down to remove the 2 10mm bolts that hold in the window.

so pull the reg/motors, and the door vacuum actuators. once removed, suck on the rubber hose to see if each side will hold vac against your toungue.

How about the wiper motor and linkages? heater blower motor and heater core and ac evaporator.
fenders, deck lid, window aluminum trim................

as I understand it, the drivers window motor in NLA.

If the car isn`t full of rust, might be cheaper to buy the whole thing. there is always those little clips, pins and ??? other little dodads that always seem to come up.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #3  
Old 03-07-2011, 01:28 PM
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Location: Middle TN
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I'd put the wheels on and drag it home where I have air for a proper stripping. Get anything that is in decent shape. Seat cushion can be swapped, ignition switch can be re-keyed, lights, body panels, glass, trim, wiper motors, tranny all can be useful. Local tow truck driver said he could get $500 with engine & aluminum wheels intact.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #4  
Old 03-07-2011, 01:41 PM
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If those windows are factory tinted (and not just fitted with a film) - I'd grab as much of it as I could... it sells at the premium over here (I guess it would where you are too).

Oh yes and perhaps any tachometer bits and the dash board if it is crack free!

AND you could get some cash for the "chrome" light trims here - and the wing mirror - and the brake booster etc etc

Ah bugger just take it down to brass tacks!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Last edited by Stretch; 03-07-2011 at 01:45 PM. Reason: A european's perspective
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  #5  
Old 03-07-2011, 02:15 PM
whunter's Avatar
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Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
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Hmmm

If you have the space.

Headlight doors + light assembly.
Brake: master, booster, calipers.
Transmission
steering box
Take the differential with the rear sub-frame/trailing arms, new arms are $3,000.00 each.
Fuel tank sender.
Central locking vacuum pods!!!



.
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  #6  
Old 03-07-2011, 09:25 PM
ngarover's Avatar
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I don't think that's tint... just dirt... lol.
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  #7  
Old 03-07-2011, 10:43 PM
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Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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It just hit me looking at the pictures again. the way the left side is jacked up, that is really something. not too sure I would want to get under it.

Iam sure someone is looking for good rust free floors for their rust bucket.

The trailing arms from PNP with the hubs, are $42 each. wow those new one`s must be gold plated.

Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #8  
Old 03-08-2011, 12:51 AM
Yak Yak is offline
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Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 1,711
Fuses, ignition switch, combo switch, kickdown switch, visors(?), blower motor, brake cap (build yourself a pressure bleeder), cruise amp (just in case it works), headlight switch still in there? dash vents, blower motor aux fuse

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