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#46
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Diesel Fuel
The problem is not confinded to Diesel Fuel, it at least also lives within Kerosene.
This bug, which has a name as long as your arm, loves to live in fuels. The solution is to kill the bug, and to also keep as much moisture of of the fuel system as you can. The treatment to two fold. Get rid of the water, water can come with the fuel, or is there from condensation. Then kill the bug. The warmer the fuel, the more the bug thrives. Water filters such as Racor, will get rid of the water before it gets to the injector pump and injectors, now there is a nice repair bill. Some form of chemical treatment is required for the bug to be eliminated, and the cost is reasonable, compared with the damage costs that can occur. Ignore the problem at your peril, the bills will kill you. Regards Col |
#47
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green fuel
In Boca Raton, one of your local marinas can turn you on to small business that clean boat tanks. I live on a gulfstar that has 3 tanks, and it is something that has to be done from time to time. They stick hose in your tank and a big ass pump runs your fuel through a couple of big ass Raycor filters. The hose they use is specilized to return the clean fuel under pressure to clean the tank. After that a Raycor 500 and an eyedropper of BioBore every other tank will keep things clean. Try West Marine for your filter and Biobore. Be careful where you buy your fuel, go where the truckers go.
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82 300d 194 75 240d sold Gulfstar 41 4-107 Perkins Westerbeke 4.4 Gen Puegot Bicycle Legs AYP Lawn Tractor Briggs 12.5 |
#48
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I'm not sure if I'd want a couple of metal rods banging around inside my fuel tank. I think they might be noisy as they move around inside?
Also, do you change the filter every 60 days pull the old one out put a new one in, and then thow the old one where? Not having a shop, I guess I could take the filter to Pep Boys or some other auto parts store for recycling? Do they do that? I don't think my garbage people are supposed to take filters full of diesel fuel. How does one ship it back for a refund once it's saturated with good old eastern PA #2 sulfur fuel? Also, my main reason for avoiding this in my SD would be...what could these metal thingy's dent or break as they roll around inside my fuel tank? My prefilter/screen, hoses, 19+ year old welds or seams? I don't have a problem now, so I don't think I would try this thing. Good idea for a stationary fuel tank maybe, but not for a car...IMHO And wouldn't a severe algae infestation quickly saturate these smaller tank filters? I can envision shovelfulls of algae or liters of water, and this little filter trying to fight it. I'd probably apply the $21.95 + shipping towards proven technology, like having a shop flush the tank, and have it plated with copper maybe. Some of their products remind me of this water treatment gimmick my wife found on the internet somewhere. IIRC it was around $100 for a little thing that wrapped around my main cold water pipe and "magnetize" the molecules in my water and my wife is asking me if I think this will soften our water. I could find tons of university studies on how a traditional water softener works, and couldn't find any kind of evidence proving that the magnetic molecular treatment did anything useful. OK, maybe straighten the rust molecules in some people's water for a couple inches ...How is this going to get rid of 300 ppm of calcium carbonate (hardness)? LOL. Some of this stuff is just pure snake oil.
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Bob Roe Lehigh Valley PA USA 1973 Olds 88, 1972 MB 280SE, 1978 Datsun 280Z, 1971 Ford T-Bird, 1972 Olds 88, 1983 Nissan Sentra, 1985 Sentra, 1973 230.6, 1990 Acura Integra, 1991 Volvo 940GLE wagon, 1983 300SD, 1984 300SD, 1995 Subaru Legacy L wagon, 2002 Mountaineer, 1991 300TE wagon, 2008 Murano, 2007 R320CDI 4Matic 52K, some Hyundai, 2008 BMW 535xi wagon, all gone... currently 2007 Honda Odyssey Touring, 2014 E350 4matic Last edited by Robert W. Roe; 05-29-2003 at 11:58 PM. |
#49
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Yea those magnets you speak of are a joke, but a freind of mine works for a big company (Dana, like the rear end) and he claimed one of their suppliers had a magnetic filter that got everything down to one micron or so. He tried to get one to 'test it out' but they weren't interested.
![]() ![]() I almost always keep my diesel tanks on the upper half, but I'm thinking on this tank I may run it low inorder to drain it all out and burn it. Maybe it isn't worth running it low, just drain it for a minute or so to get the stuff off the bottom then rid of that? I have had no problems with algae as of yet, but I know the car (84) set a couple years before I bought it. It also set from November to mid April nearly empty this year. My prefilter was blackened before, but I know not the age of it. If I remember I'll check it again tomorrow to see how the new one is holding up with ~4k miles on it. Also I use Redline DFC which removes the same amount of water, and from time to time I use Redline Water Remover. Regardless I want to drain the bottom of the tank on principle of it.... Should I run it low or just drain a little after letting it set overnight? The 83 is fighting an algae problem however, fuel gauge problem as well, so I will probably do the same with it.
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Jeff M. Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here. 1983 / 1984 300D Sold 2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold 2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k |
#50
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Bogus Fuel-Saving Device Sellers diesel/gasoline.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1055064#post1055064 Have a great day
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ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/ Last edited by whunter; 12-24-2007 at 11:31 AM. |
#51
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i always run mine
pretty low. in winter i put in some injection cleanrer from time to time.
are you running the biocide in it? it should kill it and it will run through the filter. then do it twice more for good measure. tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. Last edited by t walgamuth; 12-30-2005 at 08:52 PM. |
#52
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BUMP
I'm having a bad algae problem in my 300D - the pre-filter (clear one) is a nice dark green/black color. And all this time, I was wondering if the poor HP was normal - she dosnt even like hills (eek!)
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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build) |
#53
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biocide available at your local parts store or even walmart should work.
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Current: 05 E320 CDI 07 GL320 CDI 08 Sprinter 05 Dodge Cummins 01 Dodge Cummins Previous 2004 E55 AMG 2002 C32 AMG (#2) 1995 E300 1978 300D 1987 300D 2002 C32 AMG(blown motor :[ 1981 300SD 1983 300SD 1987 300SDL 2002 Jetta TDI 1996 S420 1995 S500 1993 190E 2.6 1992 190E 2.3 1985 190E 2.3 5-Speed |
#54
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I have to go to the local marine store to find it.
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#55
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Really? i bought some at walmart and seen some at kragen. Still havent used it though just keep it in storage just incase we need it.
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Current: 05 E320 CDI 07 GL320 CDI 08 Sprinter 05 Dodge Cummins 01 Dodge Cummins Previous 2004 E55 AMG 2002 C32 AMG (#2) 1995 E300 1978 300D 1987 300D 2002 C32 AMG(blown motor :[ 1981 300SD 1983 300SD 1987 300SDL 2002 Jetta TDI 1996 S420 1995 S500 1993 190E 2.6 1992 190E 2.3 1985 190E 2.3 5-Speed |
#56
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Answer:
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He will pick up some filters and BioBore tomorrow to resolve the issue. ![]() |
#57
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Water in Fuel!!
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Water in fuel storage tanks (fuel tank on auto) is where the li'l devils live and breed......so if you have a water separator/filter.....it will continue to clog up, until your fuel tank is free of the biological contaminant (algae). On the ships we used a product called "BioBar", put the requisite anount into each and every fuel tank. Power Service makes a Diesel Kleen version in a red container called Diesel Medic or something.......it is supposed to clear up biological problems after infestation and fuel gelling problems have begun.....thankfully, I have not , YET, had the need to try this product.......but I do pay attention to the fuel that I add to my diesel vehicles!! SB
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![]() Diesels: '85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG '84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG '77 240D (parts car) '67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP) Gassers: '94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG '85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car '58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG |
#58
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Quote:
Hope to see you tomarrow.
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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build) |
#59
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I couldnt find a supply of the primary (little clear plastic ones) locally (not even the dealer had them)
I did get a new "screw on" and installed it - much better running. I still need to get the other filter, and some biobor.
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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build) |
#60
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biobor and the starbrite star-tron I used both in a very badly algae loaded tank
BTW star-tron in tank cleaner 64 oz bottles is the same exact chemical mix as the smaller 16 oz bottles but a much better deal at about 1/2 the cost per oz I got a low mile car 300 sd that would barely run and foul a primary filter quickly I drained the tank and remove the screen /filter [ it was fouled with a solid coating of thick algae gunk] and pumped through a mix of reg gas alcohol FI cleaner and star-tron I reused the mix through the tank and let it drain over and over then used a rag on a coat hanger wire to get the bottom of the tank clean in fact did that twice about a week apart. then went threw about a month of changing the primary filter every few days. After the filters stopped fouling I was able to drive the car from Miami to Cleveland to Chicago and back with out one filter change a month later Last edited by whunter; 03-06-2008 at 02:11 AM. Reason: removed dangerous procedure. |
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