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  #46  
Old 04-17-2002, 08:35 PM
Col Tigwell
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Diesel Fuel

The problem is not confinded to Diesel Fuel, it at least also lives within Kerosene.

This bug, which has a name as long as your arm, loves to live in fuels.

The solution is to kill the bug, and to also keep as much moisture of of the fuel system as you can.

The treatment to two fold. Get rid of the water, water can come with the fuel, or is there from condensation. Then kill the bug.

The warmer the fuel, the more the bug thrives.

Water filters such as Racor, will get rid of the water before it gets to the injector pump and injectors, now there is a nice repair bill.

Some form of chemical treatment is required for the bug to be eliminated, and the cost is reasonable, compared with the damage costs that can occur.

Ignore the problem at your peril, the bills will kill you.

Regards

Col

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  #47  
Old 05-28-2003, 12:21 AM
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green fuel

In Boca Raton, one of your local marinas can turn you on to small business that clean boat tanks. I live on a gulfstar that has 3 tanks, and it is something that has to be done from time to time. They stick hose in your tank and a big ass pump runs your fuel through a couple of big ass Raycor filters. The hose they use is specilized to return the clean fuel under pressure to clean the tank. After that a Raycor 500 and an eyedropper of BioBore every other tank will keep things clean. Try West Marine for your filter and Biobore. Be careful where you buy your fuel, go where the truckers go.
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  #48  
Old 05-29-2003, 11:38 PM
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I'm not sure if I'd want a couple of metal rods banging around inside my fuel tank. I think they might be noisy as they move around inside?
Also, do you change the filter every 60 days pull the old one out put a new one in, and then thow the old one where? Not having a shop, I guess I could take the filter to Pep Boys or some other auto parts store for recycling? Do they do that? I don't think my garbage people are supposed to take filters full of diesel fuel. How does one ship it back for a refund once it's saturated with good old eastern PA #2 sulfur fuel?
Also, my main reason for avoiding this in my SD would be...what could these metal thingy's dent or break as they roll around inside my fuel tank? My prefilter/screen, hoses, 19+ year old welds or seams? I don't have a problem now, so I don't think I would try this thing.
Good idea for a stationary fuel tank maybe, but not for a car...IMHO And wouldn't a severe algae infestation quickly saturate these smaller tank filters?
I can envision shovelfulls of algae or liters of water, and this little filter trying to fight it.
I'd probably apply the $21.95 + shipping towards proven technology, like having a shop flush the tank, and have it plated with copper maybe.
Some of their products remind me of this water treatment gimmick my wife found on the internet somewhere.
IIRC it was around $100 for a little thing that wrapped around my main cold water pipe and "magnetize" the molecules in my water and my wife is asking me if I think this will soften our water.
I could find tons of university studies on how a traditional water softener works, and couldn't find any kind of evidence proving that the magnetic molecular treatment did anything useful.
OK, maybe straighten the rust molecules in some people's water for a couple inches ...How is this going to get rid of 300 ppm of calcium carbonate (hardness)? LOL. Some of this stuff is just pure snake oil.
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Last edited by Robert W. Roe; 05-29-2003 at 11:58 PM.
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  #49  
Old 06-03-2003, 01:37 AM
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Yea those magnets you speak of are a joke, but a freind of mine works for a big company (Dana, like the rear end) and he claimed one of their suppliers had a magnetic filter that got everything down to one micron or so. He tried to get one to 'test it out' but they weren't interested. I think it is in a different ballpark than the ziptied on magnets which perform miracles.

I almost always keep my diesel tanks on the upper half, but I'm thinking on this tank I may run it low inorder to drain it all out and burn it. Maybe it isn't worth running it low, just drain it for a minute or so to get the stuff off the bottom then rid of that? I have had no problems with algae as of yet, but I know the car (84) set a couple years before I bought it. It also set from November to mid April nearly empty this year. My prefilter was blackened before, but I know not the age of it. If I remember I'll check it again tomorrow to see how the new one is holding up with ~4k miles on it. Also I use Redline DFC which removes the same amount of water, and from time to time I use Redline Water Remover. Regardless I want to drain the bottom of the tank on principle of it.... Should I run it low or just drain a little after letting it set overnight? The 83 is fighting an algae problem however, fuel gauge problem as well, so I will probably do the same with it.
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  #50  
Old 12-29-2005, 05:44 PM
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Unhappy Bogus Fuel-Saving Device Sellers diesel/gasoline

Bogus Fuel-Saving Device Sellers diesel/gasoline.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1055064#post1055064







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  #51  
Old 12-29-2005, 05:54 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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i always run mine

pretty low. in winter i put in some injection cleanrer from time to time.

are you running the biocide in it? it should kill it and it will run through the filter. then do it twice more for good measure.

tom w
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Last edited by t walgamuth; 12-30-2005 at 08:52 PM.
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  #52  
Old 10-08-2006, 09:38 PM
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BUMP



I'm having a bad algae problem in my 300D - the pre-filter (clear one) is a nice dark green/black color.

And all this time, I was wondering if the poor HP was normal - she dosnt even like hills (eek!)
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  #53  
Old 10-08-2006, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monomer View Post
BUMP



I'm having a bad algae problem in my 300D - the pre-filter (clear one) is a nice dark green/black color.

And all this time, I was wondering if the poor HP was normal - she dosnt even like hills (eek!)
biocide available at your local parts store or even walmart should work.
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  #54  
Old 10-08-2006, 10:39 PM
Craig
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Originally Posted by greasybenz View Post
biocide available at your local parts store or even walmart should work.
I have to go to the local marine store to find it.
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  #55  
Old 10-08-2006, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
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I have to go to the local marine store to find it.
Really? i bought some at walmart and seen some at kragen. Still havent used it though just keep it in storage just incase we need it.
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  #56  
Old 10-08-2006, 10:57 PM
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Answer:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Monomer View Post
BUMP



I'm having a bad algae problem in my 300D - the pre-filter (clear one) is a nice dark green/black color.

And all this time, I was wondering if the poor HP was normal - she doesn't even like hills (eek!)
I just talked with him on the phone.
He will pick up some filters and BioBore tomorrow to resolve the issue.
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  #57  
Old 10-09-2006, 06:38 AM
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Water in Fuel!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducati View Post
I wonder if a water separator hooked up in line from the fuel tank would help keep algae oe other fuel related problems at bay. I have seen water separators used on big highway tractors & wonder if such a device is available for our diesels & if it would be benificial, especially to those of us who live in rainy climates?
Water separators such as "Racor" work to prevent water from getting to the Injection Pump.....and thus damaging the pump's plunger/barrel assembly.

Water in fuel storage tanks (fuel tank on auto) is where the li'l devils live and breed......so if you have a water separator/filter.....it will continue to clog up, until your fuel tank is free of the biological contaminant (algae). On the ships we used a product called "BioBar", put the requisite anount into each and every fuel tank.

Power Service makes a Diesel Kleen version in a red container called Diesel Medic or something.......it is supposed to clear up biological problems after infestation and fuel gelling problems have begun.....thankfully, I have not , YET, had the need to try this product.......but I do pay attention to the fuel that I add to my diesel vehicles!!

SB
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  #58  
Old 10-09-2006, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
I just talked with him on the phone.
He will pick up some filters and BioBore tomorrow to resolve the issue.
Sure will.

Hope to see you tomarrow.
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  #59  
Old 10-09-2006, 08:16 PM
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I couldnt find a supply of the primary (little clear plastic ones) locally (not even the dealer had them)


I did get a new "screw on" and installed it - much better running. I still need to get the other filter, and some biobor.
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  #60  
Old 12-24-2007, 03:35 PM
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biobor and the starbrite star-tron I used both in a very badly algae loaded tank

BTW star-tron in tank cleaner 64 oz bottles is the same exact chemical mix
as the smaller 16 oz bottles
but a much better deal at about 1/2 the cost per oz

I got a low mile car 300 sd that would barely run and foul a primary filter quickly
I drained the tank and remove the screen /filter [ it was fouled with a solid coating of thick algae gunk]
and pumped through a mix of reg gas alcohol FI cleaner and star-tron
I reused the mix through the tank and let it drain over and over
then used a rag on a coat hanger wire to get the bottom of the tank clean
in fact did that twice about a week apart.
then went threw about a month of changing the primary filter every few days.
After the filters stopped fouling I was able to drive the car from Miami to Cleveland to Chicago and back with out one filter change a month later


Last edited by whunter; 03-06-2008 at 02:11 AM. Reason: removed dangerous procedure.
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