I have 1992 300D 2.5. I replaced the timing chain and cam gear and IP gear, guides, and tensioner. I thought I kept the injector pump in the correct spot but now the car runs terrible (hunts for idle if it will idle, knocks, smokes, starts slow, must have some throttle to start or keep running, etc). I am thinking I screwed up the IP timing. I have been told that you line up the vee? in the governor hole of the IP when at 14 degrees after TDC. Does anyone know what the mark or Vee looks like? In the manual it shows a light to line it up but I do not have access to one and was hoping to at least get close. The car ran well before. The vacuum pump failed. Which is why I had to do this. I have now lined it up to 3 different marks and have gone a total of 180 degrees with the IP gear and not much difference. Does anyone have a diagram or exploded view of the governor, IP, or a picture of the mark, or can at least give me an accurate description of what I am looking for?
Thanks in advance
Pat

Before getting into this. Is the mark for 14 degrees before top dead centre rather than 14 degrees after top dead centre as you mention you have timed to? Best to double check as I see problems injecting after the piston has passed well over top dead centre. Twenty eight degrees retarded to factory recomendations might be enough for all your symptoms.

Otherwise this seems to be a pretty common problem. When the v is present in the injection pump window the cam lobes of the first cylinder must be pointing upward at about 10 oclock and two oclock. If they are facing downward you have timed the injection pump to the wrong cycle.. I think you already know this but just checking. Remember I have never worked on a car with one of your pumps. Yet they are still a conventional in line pump.

It is the first thing to check in your senario. Other than the btdc versus atdc thing. Your running symptoms seem about par again for this fairly common problem.Your post indicates that you have already covered this but the symptoms kind of say perhaps not. I also see no reason you cannot drip check the pump as the older versions where done. That is definatly 14 degrees before top dead centre.

There should be only one mark that will show through the window on the pump. Or to be correct I have never heard of three visable marks in there before. If there were three close together the centre mark would be correct.

The most difficult and only other senario that comes to mind is the marks on the harmonic balancer are off. Or the centrifical timing device that also drives the vaccum pump is damaged. This is unlikely but if everything else is really correct a possibility. Damage to the timing wheel is especially a very long shot. The odds highly favour it being okay.

As long as that mark is visable in the injection pump window in the centre area your car normally will not run as bad as you are experiencing.

There is also a much cheaper mechanical device that locks the pump up to install it remember. I agree with a mirror the visual method should be okay. You are far from the first to do it that way. Go into the archives to find out how common your problem is. Plus a very good description of what the mark looks like.

I suspect all the above will not be required once the before top dead centre versus after top dead centre is straightened out.

Forget the first 2 pages of this section as they are for a 617.
the rest concerns timing of the IP you have.
Please note that the IP timing when using something that is going into that plug hole on the side of the Fuel Injection Pump Governor is 14 degrees to + O.5 degrees ATDC (After Top Dead Center); it is on the last page of this secition. (after 1990)
http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Maintenance/My81/0760.pdf

There is a Locking/Timing pin that you can buy that also goes in that hole but to use it you would be required to pull the pump out. Follow the directions on inserting the Locking Pin and re-insert the Fuel Injection Pump with the piston on the compression stroke and the Crankshaft Damper degrees ant 14 Degrees ATDC.

I do not think you can just Eyeball through the plug hole and get the timing corect.

The site below if for the whole Engine; should be able to find all the info you want there.

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/Index/602_603index.html

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It is 14* ATDC. It's a reference mark, not start of delivery mark.

It should run without the symptoms you describe with the RIV tab centered as well as you can by feel.

Here's a picture of the screwdriver tip you're looking for from the gsxr collection -



Sixto
87 300D

Thank you for all the help. Sixto, that picture is perfect. As soon as I saw it I knew I was on the wrong mark. I lined up the correct mark and all is good.
Thanks
Pat

what program to open up that web site to read the files on the manual/

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/Main.html

And your specific:http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/Index/602_603index.html

View this when you have LOTS of time:http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=212097
(Best single modification You'll ever Do!)

gsxr's "WebSite". All things W124:http://www.w124performance.com/images/

Mercedes Benz Club of Russia's Illustrated Electronic Parts Catalog:
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb1.asp?TP=1&F=124128_15S&M=602.962&GA=722.418&GM=717.437&

Go here and feed it a US based credit card # (NO Charge,FREE) and get
a years of the Mercedes of North America's EPC.
https://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/subscribe.jsp

(The Russian site IS more user friendly,though!)

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'84 300SD sold
124.128