1996 E300D starter removal - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Jeremy5848 · #1 07-19-2009, 07:00 PM

Anyone ever R&R the starter on a 1996 E300D (W210, OM606NA)? Looks like the intake manifold has to come off first, then an easy removal from above. Don't see how to do it from below, the steering column is in the way.

Diesel911 · #2 07-20-2009, 01:25 AM

This only goes up to 1995 but maybe things on the Engine are the same:

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/Index/605_606index.html

Jeremy5848 · #3 07-20-2009, 05:32 PM

Thanks, that's pretty much how they all go. The "Alldata" subscription service has the same instructions. Looking again from underneath, maybe it will come out between the steering column and the chassis.

OTOH, the top bolt of the two that hold the starter to the engine will be very hard to access, it's really hidden. A box wrench (17mm) with a curved handle may do it -- not something I own, of course.

lupin..the..3rd · #4 07-21-2009, 06:05 PM

I've pulled mine before, it's a piece of cake. Make sure you disconnect the battery first, so you don't fry yourself with the starter electrical wires. I had to replace a leaking gasket on the oil/water heat exchanger, but in order to remove that, you have to remove the starter (or you can't reach all the bolts). I did have my intake manifold off when I did this, but I think I removed the starter from below? Can't remember now.

Jeremy5848 · #5 07-21-2009, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lupin..the..3rd

I've pulled mine before, it's a piece of cake. Make sure you disconnect the battery first, so you don't fry yourself with the starter electrical wires. I had to replace a leaking gasket on the oil/water heat exchanger, but in order to remove that, you have to remove the starter (or you can't reach all the bolts). I did have my intake manifold off when I did this, but I think I removed the starter from below? Can't remember now.

You must be terribly strong or terribly heavy to call this job a piece of cake! The bottom bolt of the two holding the starter onto the car is hard enough and it's right there in plain sight (I suspect mine has never been disturbed since the factory put it on).

The top bolt can barely be seen or felt and definitely not both seen and felt at the same time. I went out and bought some "obstruction wrenches" (Harbor Freight's "Pittsburgh" brand, set of 5, made in India, $12). The 17mm is the correct size.

As the pictures show, the top bolt is nearly impossible to get at. Even when I had the wrench on the bolt, there was no way to get any leverage. I ended up making an extension from another wrench so that I could lever down with a long screwdriver. I was afraid of breaking the wrench but the bolt did finally start to loosen.

Now that I know I can get the bolts out, I'll be able to remove the starter when the replacement arrives (maybe Friday). Wish me luck.

Jeremy

lupin..the..3rd · #6 07-21-2009, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeremy5848

You must be terribly strong or terribly heavy to call this job a piece of cake! The bottom bolt of the two holding the starter onto the car is hard enough and it's right there in plain sight (I suspect mine has never been disturbed since the factory put it on).

Actually, I'm neither.

They are on there good and tight. (make sure you reinstall them good and tight too - that starter makes a LOT of torque and you don't want it coming loose) I used a heavy hammer to bang on the end of my wrench in the desired direction of travel. Kind of a poor-man's impact wrench.

I also had to use one of those bent wrenches like you show in your photo. Mine was a VW diesel fuel injector wrench that just happens to be 17mm.

As you said, one of the bolts must be done by feel since it's very close to the body of the car with not much working room.

But even so, only two bolts and a couple of wires, I still call that piece of cake. Want a real challenge? Try changing a Porsche 911 starter. The 911 starter is on the top side of the gearbox, and the gearbox is beneath the back seat of the car. Basically you can't see any of it visually - you just lay under the car, "hug" the transmission with your arms, and do it ALL by feel. Ahhh, good times!

Jeremy5848 · #7 07-22-2009, 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lupin..the..3rd

. . . Want a real challenge? Try changing a Porsche 911 starter. The 911 starter is on the top side of the gearbox, and the gearbox is beneath the back seat of the car. Basically you can't see any of it visually - you just lay under the car, "hug" the transmission with your arms, and do it ALL by feel. Ahhh, good times!

Yeah, I hear you. After years of working on BMW (air-cooled twin) motorcycles, I found that I hated working on my wife's VW bug and anything similar. Same basic opposed engine configuration but everything is covered with sheet metal and hard to get at. I ended up whining, "This could be so easy!"

UPS will have the new starter to me by Friday so I guess my weekend is already set. Thanks for your advice.

Jeremy

michakaveli · #8 07-24-2009, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeremy5848

You must be terribly strong or terribly heavy to call this job a piece of cake! The bottom bolt of the two holding the starter onto the car is hard enough and it's right there in plain sight (I suspect mine has never been disturbed since the factory put it on).

The top bolt can barely be seen or felt and definitely not both seen and felt at the same time. I went out and bought some "obstruction wrenches" (Harbor Freight's "Pittsburgh" brand, set of 5, made in India, $12). The 17mm is the correct size.

As the pictures show, the top bolt is nearly impossible to get at. Even when I had the wrench on the bolt, there was no way to get any leverage. I ended up making an extension from another wrench so that I could lever down with a long screwdriver. I was afraid of breaking the wrench but the bolt did finally start to loosen.

Now that I know I can get the bolts out, I'll be able to remove the starter when the replacement arrives (maybe Friday). Wish me luck.

Jeremy

Thanks for those pics. I finally see where that steering column boot is that wears uot and causes the interior surging noise.

Jeremy5848 · #9 07-25-2009, 09:40 PM

Here is how to do it.

First, remove the negative cable. You don't need to pull the rear seat, there's a removable cover in the right rear footwell. Unbolt the negative battery cable with a 13mm wrench and put tape on the end so it can't accidentally touch ground. [The black wire coming out of the battery hole is an accessory lead for charging things in the car without having to have the ignition on.]

Next, get the car up in the air and remove the rearmost of the three belly pans. With the underside exposed, reach up and unbolt the starter wire and battery cable from the starter. It's on the left side of the engine, under the oil filter. I decided to completely remove the cable so it would be out of the way. It's only about a foot long.

Next, remove two 10mm bolts that hold the starter to the engine. You'll need a 17mm "obstruction" (curved) wrench for the top bolt and a regular 17mm box wrench for the bottom bolt. Expect them to be very tight. The upper bolt was a real PITA, I had to use the wrench for most of its length. Only for the last few threads could I use fingers. There is no room for any kind of ratchet.

Now the starter can be removed and lowered through the gap between the steering column's linkage and the chassis wall. It is a fairly tight fit but it does fit.

I didn't have any problems installing the rebuilt starter except that the electrical connections were slightly different. I wire-brushed the threads of the two 10mm bolts and put a little anti-seize on them so they would go in more easily than they came out. I used a long screw driver as a pry tool under the starter so I could wiggle it about until I got the bolts started.

Once the two bolts are mostly screwed in, do the electrical connections and then tighten the 10mm bolts. After checking to make sure all is done correctly, re-install the negative cable and see if the car will start. If it works as it should, replace the belly pan and put the car back on the ground.

Jeremy

nhdoc · #10 07-26-2009, 07:56 AM

Nice work, thanks for the great write-up and photos...it should help when mine decides it has started the car enough times!

pedrodiesel · #11 03-09-2010, 10:46 PM

Hello firends, I know that the starter in my car uses 16 mm wrench.
I think an 'S' type wrench should work for the top bolt which is difficult to reach.
Pedrodiesel

jimbolil · #12 10-19-2013, 12:11 PM

Jeremy,

What was the reason to show the pictures of the starter wire removal from the back seat. Not sure why you needed to do this? I have a 95 e300d that needs its starter removed.Still not moving as good after my spine surgery. I hate tight spots!

Jeremy5848 · #13 10-19-2013, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimbolil

Jeremy,

What was the reason to show the pictures of the starter wire removal from the back seat. Not sure why you needed to do this? I have a 95 e300d that needs its starter removed.Still not moving as good after my spine surgery. I hate tight spots!

It's certainly possible to do the job without removing the ground. If you accidentally touch the positive terminal to chassis, though, you'll have a massive short that could start a fire.

As to the pictures of disconnecting the negative wire, I included them because I wasn't sure 210 owners knew about that connection. No sense in removing the rear seat bottom if you don't have to.

vstech · #14 10-19-2013, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimbolil

Jeremy,

What was the reason to show the pictures of the starter wire removal from the back seat. Not sure why you needed to do this? I have a 95 e300d that needs its starter removed.Still not moving as good after my spine surgery. I hate tight spots!

the 95 is a w124, and it's battery is in the engine compartment... the OP's car is a w210, and the battery is under the back seat. his wire explanation is for the 210 users to easily unhook the negative from the car.