Questions: Oil Type & Antifreeze type - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

curtludwig · #31 11-21-2008, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WD8CDH

In the 617, ANY CI-4 or higher rated oil is better than the best oil available in the 80's. If you are using conventional oil, unless your engine is quite warn, the best choice is 15W-40. For synthetics, ALL of the 5W-40 are at least better than the best conventional oils, especially for winter starting. Rotella 5W-40 synthetic is often the lowest price synthetic.

If you buy synthetic based on price you have to understand what you're getting. Rotella isn't a real synthetic, its a very good conventional oil... Its good oil but you might as well use a real conventional oil and save a couple bucks. If you want real synthetic step up to Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline or the like.

showme · #32 11-22-2008, 02:47 AM

OK, I feel like I'm getting ready to stick my finger in an electric socket here, but I've gotta ask, since I"m about to change my oil tomorrow. I've been using Rotella 15-40 in the 81 300d for 2 years. It's what the PO used. (I use Lucas 15-40 in my Suburban) Is there something wrong with Rotella? Seems like it does fine to me. Runs out of all the available leaky spots really well.

But if the Synthetic helps starting in the winter, I'm all for taking back the 2 gallons I have ready for tomorrow(now today), and getting something else. Would it mean having to flush all the old out? I was thinking of dropping my oil pan to clean it out and change the gasket. Anyone care to make a serious comment? (No offense, but I got a bad one on my last post that could have really messed up someone's day if they'd taken it seriously)

Palangi · #33 11-22-2008, 10:22 AM

Oil threads, gotta luv 'em.....

In North America, year 2008, it is pretty much impossible to buy a bad diesel rated oil. Even the cheapest ones are more than adequate for use in light duty diesel engines like OM 617's. Any diesel rated oil will hold up well for 5000 miles in one of these engines. The only real question is cold weather starting. If it starts in cold weather on 15w40, fine. If it is hard to start on the coldest mornings, use 5w40.

tangofox007 · #34 11-22-2008, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by curtludwig

If you buy synthetic based on price you have to understand what you're getting. Rotella isn't a real synthetic, its a very good conventional oil...

Speaking of "understanding what you are getting," it might be valuable to specify which Rotella version you are referring to. Rotella is sold in a conventional form (single and multigrade), in a synthetic blend and in a fully synthetic version.

whunter · #35 11-22-2008, 10:51 AM

showme · #36 11-22-2008, 11:27 AM

Tangofox-Non-synthetic is what I use. whunter- Did you actually type all that out? Thanks very much for the concentrated info thread. That's a great piece of reference material!

whunter · #37 11-22-2008, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by showme

Tangofox-Non-synthetic is what I use. whunter- Did you actually type all that out? Thanks very much for the concentrated info thread. That's a great piece of reference material!

It is from my forum "DIY Links by Parts Category"

Fast navigation Do It Yourself Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=146034

ShopForum > Do It Yourself Links & Resources > DIY Links by Parts Category
Engine Mechanical:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=142400

Hatterasguy · #38 11-22-2008, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by showme

OK, I feel like I'm getting ready to stick my finger in an electric socket here, but I've gotta ask, since I"m about to change my oil tomorrow. I've been using Rotella 15-40 in the 81 300d for 2 years. It's what the PO used. (I use Lucas 15-40 in my Suburban) Is there something wrong with Rotella? Seems like it does fine to me. Runs out of all the available leaky spots really well.

But if the Synthetic helps starting in the winter, I'm all for taking back the 2 gallons I have ready for tomorrow(now today), and getting something else. Would it mean having to flush all the old out? I was thinking of dropping my oil pan to clean it out and change the gasket. Anyone care to make a serious comment? (No offense, but I got a bad one on my last post that could have really messed up someone's day if they'd taken it seriously)

Rotella is a fine oil. If you expect to do a lot of starts below 30 degrees this winter synthetic would help the engine turn over much faster. You can use a fake synthetic like Rotella 5w40 which I have used with excellent results. Great bang for your buck product.

All you have to do is drain out your old oil and refill with the new stuff. I wouldn't drop the oild oil pan, just opening a can of worms with that. If its currantly leaking when you change the oil would be the time to fix it.

rwthomas1 · #39 11-22-2008, 05:34 PM

I prefer to purchase bulk oil and coolant for my "fleet". Chevron Delo 400 5w-40 synthetic and Rotella ELC heavy duty coolant. I can get them in cases from a local distributor. This keeps it easier to have fluids in stock when I need them. The Jetta is the only one not running the ELC as its still on the factory "long life" coolant. Will likely go ELC when the time comes. I have five engines to keep up with, 4 are diesels, and this makes it much easier. I've been doing this now for 7+years and there have been no issues at all. RT

sixto · #40 11-22-2008, 05:48 PM

What are the minimum quantities?

Sixto
87 300D

#41 11-22-2008, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

Rotella is sold in a conventional form (single and multigrade), in a synthetic blend and in a fully synthetic version.

None of which use any real synthetic.

They have group III "cracked" oil that is normal dino oil with properties like synthetic. US regulations allows them to get away with calling it synthetic even though its not.